ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E
09-30-2008, 06:00 PM
#51
Good thing I like challenges. I know this is childs play to some of you guys but again I'm in un-charted areas for my experience.
I didn't think this cross member mod out real well. 2 or 3 or critical things to get accomplished besides strength I think. Right distance for the trans mount holes rearward and keeping it on the right line between the frame. Along with overall length so it bolts back up to the mounts. The rearward is no big deal since I have some slop with the holes being oblong. Getting it centered the other way I don't know how much room for error I have. Thinking of making up some kind of jig.
Using another member to kind of eye it for now.
I didn't think this cross member mod out real well. 2 or 3 or critical things to get accomplished besides strength I think. Right distance for the trans mount holes rearward and keeping it on the right line between the frame. Along with overall length so it bolts back up to the mounts. The rearward is no big deal since I have some slop with the holes being oblong. Getting it centered the other way I don't know how much room for error I have. Thinking of making up some kind of jig.
Using another member to kind of eye it for now.
09-30-2008, 06:20 PM
#52
Good thing I like challenges. I know this is childs play to some of you guys but again I'm in un-charted areas for my experience.
I didn't think this cross member mod out real well. 2 or 3 or critical things to get accomplished besides strength I think. Right distance for the trans mount holes rearward and keeping it on the right line between the frame. Along with overall length so it bolts back up to the mounts. The rearward is no big deal since I have some slop with the holes being oblong. Getting it centered the other way I don't know how much room for error I have. Thinking of making up some kind of jig.
Using another member to kind of eye it for now.
I didn't think this cross member mod out real well. 2 or 3 or critical things to get accomplished besides strength I think. Right distance for the trans mount holes rearward and keeping it on the right line between the frame. Along with overall length so it bolts back up to the mounts. The rearward is no big deal since I have some slop with the holes being oblong. Getting it centered the other way I don't know how much room for error I have. Thinking of making up some kind of jig.
Using another member to kind of eye it for now.
09-30-2008, 06:36 PM
#53
Funny you should suggest that. Great idea about the dowel rods. Store tomorrow for the right size. Should square it up also.
Its about right on the passenger end. Have to remove about a 1/4' from the center section on the drivers side to get it about right
Its about right on the passenger end. Have to remove about a 1/4' from the center section on the drivers side to get it about right
10-01-2008, 07:06 PM
#54
Well, right or wrong, its one piece of steel now. I think its pretty close. 
Not as square as I'd like it. The welding is getting easier.
Little bit more welding and some grinding and paint and its done. I would have to recommend the little Lincoln welder to anyone needing a small project unit after this job.
Not as square as I'd like it. The welding is getting easier.
Little bit more welding and some grinding and paint and its done. I would have to recommend the little Lincoln welder to anyone needing a small project unit after this job.
Last edited by KySilverado; 10-04-2008 at 07:10 PM.
10-03-2008, 08:09 PM
#56
I made a drawing of the cross member before hacking it up. Its pretty close to what you need to do. Of course I haven't got it in the truck yet. Use at your own risk until proved out.
Last edited by KySilverado; 10-03-2008 at 08:55 PM.
10-18-2008, 04:57 PM
#58
Haven't done much last couple weeks. Ordered the converter last week. Precision Industries Vigilante, 3 disk, 2800, LS1 style. With shipping when done... about $1000. Once I get the verter I'll have all the parts to begin the swap. Want to make a couple trips to the track before I begin it so will be a few weeks. I also need to get a transmission jack for this swap. I've been lucky through the others and haven't dumped the transmission.
With the new drive shafts I'll be ordering after I get the transmission in I will be going with 1350 joints. Never been an issue with the current but I do plan on throwing more power at it somehow.... better safe than sorry.
1350 series yoke required for the rear end. I chose Spicer. Looking for a dust slinger for it.
Part numbers for the Yoke, seal and bearing caps...
Can't forget the fluid
$70 for the yoke, seal, caps, and nut.
$50 for more than enough fluid.
With the new drive shafts I'll be ordering after I get the transmission in I will be going with 1350 joints. Never been an issue with the current but I do plan on throwing more power at it somehow.... better safe than sorry.
1350 series yoke required for the rear end. I chose Spicer. Looking for a dust slinger for it.
Part numbers for the Yoke, seal and bearing caps...
Can't forget the fluid
$70 for the yoke, seal, caps, and nut.
$50 for more than enough fluid.
Last edited by KySilverado; 10-19-2008 at 03:33 PM.
10-18-2008, 10:56 PM
#59
Launching!
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very good information...
you make it look easy. If I had all this info I wouldn't have gone with a 6 speed and 2wd when my 60E broke, honestly. Your lucky finding a cherry 4WD 80E for a grand. LS1truck 60E to 80E has some great info but yours is more detailed and organized, especially for the 4WD.
you make it look easy. If I had all this info I wouldn't have gone with a 6 speed and 2wd when my 60E broke, honestly. Your lucky finding a cherry 4WD 80E for a grand. LS1truck 60E to 80E has some great info but yours is more detailed and organized, especially for the 4WD.
Anyway I wound up grinding a little off both ends to get it to fit. 
