"Frozen" tranny?
11-18-2010, 12:24 AM
#1
"Frozen" tranny?
I'm going to pick up a 4L60E that was involved in a wreck about 5 years ago. They said it had been sitting for 5 years and when they went to start and move this truck they said the transmission was "frozen" and wouldn't budge in gear. Then he said that it was probably dried out from sitting for too long.
Sounds kind of fishy to me but for $100 I'm going to go pick it up and build a good performance unit out of it. He said it only had 25k miles on it. What do you guys thing about what he said? I didn't really ask him many questions about it.
Sounds kind of fishy to me but for $100 I'm going to go pick it up and build a good performance unit out of it. He said it only had 25k miles on it. What do you guys thing about what he said? I didn't really ask him many questions about it.
11-18-2010, 12:57 AM
#3
Here's a thread that Frank from PB wrote. TONS of good info in here.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ighlight=p0757
Here's a quote from the first post that pertains to your question.
6-Allowing a transmission to set either in or out of the car for extended periods (months/years) can result in failure.
Yes actually it can. As the transmission sets for long periods of time fluid will slowly run down and away from the clutches and hard parts. The seals can even dry rot similar to the way tires do and more in damp climates moisture can enter and cause rust on hard parts and even under the lining of the friction materials and cause them to separate. I have heard the “It worked great when I took it out 2 years ago story” and its likely a true statement only to hear later that someone put it back in and it died in days or weeks or slipped or other wise acted up from sticky valves. My suggestion for storing a transmission for any length of time is to plug all the holes and fill till the fluid begins coming out of the overflow tube. Then cap this to as that will insure all parts are submerged in fluid. You will just need to drain before restarting after storage. This may help avoid some post I see with transmission complaints after taking a car out of storage that has been setting all winter.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ighlight=p0757
Here's a quote from the first post that pertains to your question.
6-Allowing a transmission to set either in or out of the car for extended periods (months/years) can result in failure.
Yes actually it can. As the transmission sets for long periods of time fluid will slowly run down and away from the clutches and hard parts. The seals can even dry rot similar to the way tires do and more in damp climates moisture can enter and cause rust on hard parts and even under the lining of the friction materials and cause them to separate. I have heard the “It worked great when I took it out 2 years ago story” and its likely a true statement only to hear later that someone put it back in and it died in days or weeks or slipped or other wise acted up from sticky valves. My suggestion for storing a transmission for any length of time is to plug all the holes and fill till the fluid begins coming out of the overflow tube. Then cap this to as that will insure all parts are submerged in fluid. You will just need to drain before restarting after storage. This may help avoid some post I see with transmission complaints after taking a car out of storage that has been setting all winter.
11-18-2010, 10:49 AM
#4
Thanks, AK. I guess that it could very well be dried out. Since it only has 25k on there it will probably be a good candidate for my overhaul.
I have a Yank converter on the way, a 2-4 Corvette servo and a carbonite 2-4 band coming. What other parts should I change? I'm thinking sun shell, forward sprag, reaction planetaries, output shaft, forward and 3-4 clutch plates, 10-vane pump rotor and vanes, and seals throughout. Can anyone recommend anything else for a stronger 4l60?
I have a Yank converter on the way, a 2-4 Corvette servo and a carbonite 2-4 band coming. What other parts should I change? I'm thinking sun shell, forward sprag, reaction planetaries, output shaft, forward and 3-4 clutch plates, 10-vane pump rotor and vanes, and seals throughout. Can anyone recommend anything else for a stronger 4l60?
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