Thanks for the input guys.

I have couple crush sleeves on the way along with a pinion wrench. The old yoke is off and the front seal is out. Out under the truck again here shortly to seat the new yoke with the old nut and get my drive shaft measurement.

The rear end was setup correctly last winter so some compromise in the plan from there. Remove the carrier and back in with the existing shim packs and call it good. Install a new crush sleeve and get the right pinion bearing pre-load.

Question - Would I call these bearings new, used, or somewhere in between. They have maybe 10K miles on them. Should I shoot for 10-15 in/lb rotational torque? Or something like 15-20. In between new and used?

 

Actually....now that I'm reading this in a clearer frame of mind (1.35am and at work...Lol!) I'd just install the new seal and re-use the old crush sleave and just nip it up to where it was and check the pre-load. Probably wouldn't bother with a new crush sleave. Only thing new is the seal so I reckon you'd be good to go....but I'm by no means a diff expert.

 

When my drive shaft broke had a reputable drive line shop here in Broward county build me a drive shaft. I had the truck at home so when I went to install the new driveshaft I noticed hair line crack on the yoke. Didnt feel like towing the truck again, called them they told me to remove cover to inspect if everything else looked good inside. If yes count threads infront of bad yoke install new one and go 1/2 thread more on it. They did say replace the nut with a new one. I never had a problem. Its probably only good once method I dont think I would do same method twice.

 

I would just install the new yoke with the old crush sleeve, and tighten it to say 25-30 inch pounds to account for the carrier and axles. But thats me. If your paranoid and want it done the right way, then tear it down and install a new crush sleeve. And I would shoot for 20 inch pounds with the new sleeve. Good luck.

 

Thats sounds like a lot 25-30 inch pounds. Thats why you measure it before with carrier and axles no wheels and brakes removed.

 

I personally would go with used bearing specs once you have 500 plus miles on it...

I have always took a bit more time with my gear set-ups than most. I like having someone in my truck and being able to talk to them with-out listening to rear end noise.

 

I personally would go with used bearing specs once you have 500 plus miles on it...

Agreed, your bearings have already been run-in, so you need to consider them used now. It sounds like you are on the right track now.