HELP! MUCH WORSE TRANS ISSUE Lost 3 and 4
01-04-2009 | 10:02 AM
#22
I had the reds & blues from Alto before putting the Borg Warner High Energy pack in during the last build. Call it coincidence, but the BWHEs survived the last 1320' (7 passes) whereas the Altos never lasted more than 3 passes each (plus, I got better at rebuilding transmissions 
).
First-timer rebuilds shouldn't take more than an 8-hour day to rebuild. If you're not confident of your mechanical ability, hook-up with someone close by that'll be willing to lend a hand. It's not difficult to rebuild 'em, but you certainly want to pay attention to what you're doing.
**edit**
*Check forward clutch clearance - 0.030" to 0.063" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed)
*Remove load release springs if still there - builders have tossed these to improve the 2-3 shift
*Check 3-4 clutch clearance - 0.060" to 0.085" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed as well)
*Look at the reverse input housing - check for "dishing" of the surface... if not FLAT, will hender 2-4 apply.
*Reinstall Input Clutch & Reverse Input assemblies back into case as one - ensure that it is COMPLETELY seated (turn as necessary).
*When all installed, the reverse input housing's face will be below the case face where the oil pump bolts to.
*Install the band (anchor pin side first). This'll be a tight fit, but have patience.
*Pump torque spec calls for 19 - 24 ft.lbs. I think I use 20. You do NOT want to strip these!
*Bellhousing bolt torque - 50 ft.lbs (if memory serves)... USE A T-50 bit, OTHERS WILL STRIP BOLTS!!! NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
*Trans pan bolt torque - 10ft.lbs
This is all I can remember for now... it's early, and kids are hungry for breakfast.
).First-timer rebuilds shouldn't take more than an 8-hour day to rebuild. If you're not confident of your mechanical ability, hook-up with someone close by that'll be willing to lend a hand. It's not difficult to rebuild 'em, but you certainly want to pay attention to what you're doing.
**edit**
*Check forward clutch clearance - 0.030" to 0.063" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed)
*Remove load release springs if still there - builders have tossed these to improve the 2-3 shift
*Check 3-4 clutch clearance - 0.060" to 0.085" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed as well)
*Look at the reverse input housing - check for "dishing" of the surface... if not FLAT, will hender 2-4 apply.
*Reinstall Input Clutch & Reverse Input assemblies back into case as one - ensure that it is COMPLETELY seated (turn as necessary).
*When all installed, the reverse input housing's face will be below the case face where the oil pump bolts to.
*Install the band (anchor pin side first). This'll be a tight fit, but have patience.
*Pump torque spec calls for 19 - 24 ft.lbs. I think I use 20. You do NOT want to strip these!
*Bellhousing bolt torque - 50 ft.lbs (if memory serves)... USE A T-50 bit, OTHERS WILL STRIP BOLTS!!! NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
*Trans pan bolt torque - 10ft.lbs
This is all I can remember for now... it's early, and kids are hungry for breakfast.
Last edited by 95ImpSS; 01-04-2009 at 10:31 AM.
01-04-2009 | 10:36 AM
#23
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From: Austin,TX Name:Mark
I had the reds & blues from Alto before putting the Borg Warner High Energy pack in during the last build. Call it coincidence, but the BWHEs survived the last 1320' (7 passes) whereas the Altos never lasted more than 3 passes each (plus, I got better at rebuilding transmissions ).
First-timer rebuilds shouldn't take more than an 8-hour day to rebuild. If you're not confident of your mechanical ability, hook-up with someone close by that'll be willing to lend a hand. It's not difficult to rebuild 'em, but you certainly want to pay attention to what you're doing.
**edit**
*Check forward clutch clearance - 0.030" to 0.063" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed)
*Remove load release springs if still there - builders have tossed these to improve the 2-3 shift
*Check 3-4 clutch clearance - 0.060" to 0.085" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed as well)
*Look at the reverse input housing - check for "dishing" of the surface... if not FLAT, will hender 2-4 apply.
*Reinstall Input Clutch & Reverse Input assemblies back into case as one - ensure that it is COMPLETELY seated (turn as necessary).
*When all installed, the reverse input housing's face will be below the case face where the oil pump bolts to.
*Install the band (anchor pin side first). This'll be a tight fit, but have patience.
*Pump torque spec calls for 19 - 24 ft.lbs. I think I use 20. You do NOT want to strip these!
*Bellhousing bolt torque - 50 ft.lbs (if memory serves)... USE A T-50 bit, OTHERS WILL STRIP BOLTS!!! NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
*Trans pan bolt torque - 10ft.lbs
This is all I can remember for now... it's early, and kids are hungry for breakfast.
).First-timer rebuilds shouldn't take more than an 8-hour day to rebuild. If you're not confident of your mechanical ability, hook-up with someone close by that'll be willing to lend a hand. It's not difficult to rebuild 'em, but you certainly want to pay attention to what you're doing.
**edit**
*Check forward clutch clearance - 0.030" to 0.063" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed)
*Remove load release springs if still there - builders have tossed these to improve the 2-3 shift
*Check 3-4 clutch clearance - 0.060" to 0.085" (backing plate change can help get clearance needed as well)
*Look at the reverse input housing - check for "dishing" of the surface... if not FLAT, will hender 2-4 apply.
*Reinstall Input Clutch & Reverse Input assemblies back into case as one - ensure that it is COMPLETELY seated (turn as necessary).
*When all installed, the reverse input housing's face will be below the case face where the oil pump bolts to.
*Install the band (anchor pin side first). This'll be a tight fit, but have patience.
*Pump torque spec calls for 19 - 24 ft.lbs. I think I use 20. You do NOT want to strip these!
*Bellhousing bolt torque - 50 ft.lbs (if memory serves)... USE A T-50 bit, OTHERS WILL STRIP BOLTS!!! NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
*Trans pan bolt torque - 10ft.lbs
This is all I can remember for now... it's early, and kids are hungry for breakfast.
01-05-2009 | 12:09 AM
#24
At least you got to beat on your trans before it went. Same thing happened to the 60E in my wifes grocery getter Trailbazer a couple of weeks ago. Solenoids checked out OK, no debris in the valve body, etc. I have the trans removed already.
01-05-2009 | 01:08 PM
#26
Shitty builder. James's truck only has good clutches and a shift kit built by someone who knows whats up and he is putting down 400rwhp with his na 5.3 and has 10K on that trans with over 100 track passes and countless street races in 4hi and on slicks. If you need someone to rebuild it give me a call I can hook you up with the same guy that built my transmissions and built James's. He charged me 200 for the 3/4 clutch and install since the whole trans ahs to be torn down to access the 3/4 clutch pack.
01-05-2009 | 01:21 PM
#27
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From: Austin,TX Name:Mark
Well here's an update. I took my transmission to one of the two guys in Austin I've heard good things about. They tore the tranmission apart and now are telling me every single one of the clutches is bad. It almost seems like they're feeding me a line of bullshit, but oh well.
Anyways, they're trying to charge me $1500 for a rebuild with no hardparts being changes out. All the hard parts are fine.
I need to know what you guys think. This is bullshit and it's the second time I've made the mistake of taking my truck to this guy. Fool me twice shame on me I guess.
Anyways, they're trying to charge me $1500 for a rebuild with no hardparts being changes out. All the hard parts are fine.
I need to know what you guys think. This is bullshit and it's the second time I've made the mistake of taking my truck to this guy. Fool me twice shame on me I guess.
01-05-2009 | 01:34 PM
#29
You can get an FLT level 3 for that. Is there really any question?
Only thing is if you need the truck in a hurry, where you have it now may be the only option. Another option is to buy a junkyard 60e for cheap and put that in so you can go on your trip.
Only thing is if you need the truck in a hurry, where you have it now may be the only option. Another option is to buy a junkyard 60e for cheap and put that in so you can go on your trip.
01-05-2009 | 03:46 PM
#30
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From: Austin,TX Name:Mark
Well fellas I ended up taking it to my original builder. It looks like the 3-4 clutch pack wasn't the only thing fucked up. It looks like one of the pistons cracked(I'm not sure which one, but I saw it) which took out everything else.
Good news is that I took it to the original guy who built it and he's going to do the same work for $300-400. Call me crazy, but I trust him more even if they had the same prices. He built 1slow01z71's and Closet Red Neck's transmissions and they were/are spot on and had much bigger setups than me.
I just hope I can get everything together in time or I'll be driving a 94 Cummins Diesel with 370,000 miles on it up to Oklahoma
Good news is that I took it to the original guy who built it and he's going to do the same work for $300-400. Call me crazy, but I trust him more even if they had the same prices. He built 1slow01z71's and Closet Red Neck's transmissions and they were/are spot on and had much bigger setups than me.
I just hope I can get everything together in time or I'll be driving a 94 Cummins Diesel with 370,000 miles on it up to Oklahoma