How much grinding is required ?
#1
How much grinding is required ?
I need to get a pair of sticky tires on the back of my truck. Seems there are a few different ways of going about it to run a 15 wheel. With the stock calipers on an 03 truck how much do you have to remove from the rear calipers, 1/4 in, 3/8 or more ?
I read that going to s10 calipers you still have to grind but how much less ?
I have a big grinder and some time so should I just stick with the stock calipers and grind away ?
I don't know, maybe I should just stick with a 16in and run that.
Thanks for any info!
I read that going to s10 calipers you still have to grind but how much less ?
I have a big grinder and some time so should I just stick with the stock calipers and grind away ?
I don't know, maybe I should just stick with a 16in and run that.
Thanks for any info!
#2
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Personally, I wouldn't grind anything off of a caliper. Your best bet for reliability is to either swap to rear drums or just run a 16. Taking that much off of these calipers to fit a 15 is an accident waiting to happen being that they are cast.
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Do it right the first time so it's not a headache later on down the road and you're not constantly worrying about it. Taking that much material off of the calipers and being that that they are cast only makes it a matter of time. I've seen it happen when brake boosting or when when running a hydro boost setup. Too many people cutting corners these days and calling it a "budget build" but sacrificing their reliability. From taking off brakes for weight reduction to completely hacking what was a nice vehicle to **** and calling it a drag truck. It's pathetic and dangerous. Just save up the $ and do it right...but if you do feel like grinding swap to an s10 rear caliper. IIRC they require less grinding to fit and would possibly be more reliable because of that, only downfall is the pistons are smaller and you would probably see an increase in the distance it requires to stop
#5
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Do it right the first time so it's not a headache later on down the road and you're not constantly worrying about it. Taking that much material off of the calipers and being that that they are cast only makes it a matter of time. I've seen it happen when brake boosting or when when running a hydro boost setup. Too many people cutting corners these days and calling it a "budget build" but sacrificing their reliability. From taking off brakes for weight reduction to completely hacking what was a nice vehicle to **** and calling it a drag truck. It's pathetic and dangerous. Just save up the $ and do it right...but if you do feel like grinding swap to an s10 rear caliper. IIRC they require less grinding to fit and would possibly be more reliable because of that, only downfall is the pistons are smaller and you would probably see an increase in the distance it requires to stop
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The bigger problem is that if you get wheels with a high backspacing so they don't stick out past the wheelwells, you run right into the brake line. On a lifted 4wd this isnt a problem but on a lowered truck you need to get that tire into the well. The only way I thought to remedy it was to weld up and drill and tap the back of the caliper to get the line out of the way. Lots of work when all I needed was a custom bracket and the calipers/pad/rotors off a 90 chevy front...
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