How much time do you lose going from 60 to 80?
#23
Even if the gearing was the same, the 80e would cause slower times because of its greater rotating mass. And even if the rotating mass were the same, your truck would be slower due to the heavier weight of the transmission. I can't see how an 80e could possibly be faster than a 60e.
#25
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other variables include traction. the 80 with the higher numerical 1st gear ratio can be easier to launch without as much traction issues and thus provide same or better 60ft times.
however, if you can get the 60 to hook up with the lower 1st gear ratio, then you should be able to get the faster 60ft times.
so i would say with all other things in combo equal, it comes down to power level and durability. if modest power, prob a built 60 or 65 be better. if high power, prob the 80. you can throw in also what your future plans are to get the better tranny to begin and save you money later on down the road on tranny, tranny rebuilds and stall. things that make you go hmmmmm
however, if you can get the 60 to hook up with the lower 1st gear ratio, then you should be able to get the faster 60ft times.
so i would say with all other things in combo equal, it comes down to power level and durability. if modest power, prob a built 60 or 65 be better. if high power, prob the 80. you can throw in also what your future plans are to get the better tranny to begin and save you money later on down the road on tranny, tranny rebuilds and stall. things that make you go hmmmmm
#26
Even if the gearing was the same, the 80e would cause slower times because of its greater rotating mass. And even if the rotating mass were the same, your truck would be slower due to the heavier weight of the transmission. I can't see how an 80e could possibly be faster than a 60e.
My 4L80 is .15 faster to the 60' than my 60e was naturally aspirated. Some or even all of that gain may be directly related to the converter, but it's faster none the less.
No power loss on the dyno. NONE. Zero
My truck only gained 54# when I switched to the 80. That's with the addition of stainless braided cooler lines, adding 1/4" plate to the cross memeber that made it considerably heavier, removed stock shifter handle and put in B&M pro-stick shifter, and adding an ~6" piece of 3" pipe to my exhaust.
Totally agree.
#28
Damn, my bro (Jake99) STATED THE COLD HARD FACTS, he had a built 4L60e with a Yank SS4000 stall and ran a 12.5@106 and then swapped to a 4L80e also with a Yank SS4000 WITHOUT changing ANYTHING else and ran a 12.8@105 in the same density altitude, both runs had a dead hook so traction had no play in it. This OBVIOUSLY shows that the 4L80e WILL rob you of some performance, power mabe not but weight and 60 foot times yes (weight shows up in mph in some cases). Now if you change your stall, speed/brand, and mabe gearing along with the transmission then in some cases, like Phantom, then you COULD gain. But if only swapping the transmission and leaving all else the same, YOU WILL LOSE some. Seen it with my own eyes, on 3 local trucks!
#29
on the street doesnt make much a difference because i just spin in 1st gear regardless but it is really interesting to be on the highway punch it and it kicks down to first. 2nd gear in the 80 is awesome. i think it goes through second faster then first. and yes the shifts are nice! i gotta drop my valve body back out and get it even a little more firm as well as fix a leak
#30
Yeah, why would you expect to GAIN anything down low going from a 3.xx first gear to a 2.48. That's retarded. Of course you're going to have to change things around. That only makes sense. Unless you were making stupid power and blowing the tires off with the 4l60e, then the tamer first gear would help.
It's all about the whole package, not just pieces of it.
It's all about the whole package, not just pieces of it.