i bought a 4l80e for 60$!!...need rebuild tips!
04-17-2011, 05:46 AM
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i bought a 4l80e for 60$!!...need rebuild tips!
my friend owns a transmission shop and he found me this deal , im building it and selling it for anther friend with 2001 step side 6.0 silvy...aimng for 500hp at the flywheel
i need recomendations on what clutches to buy whatshift kit what ovrhaul kit
pleas share your experince..im a nobe to this .
i need recomendations on what clutches to buy whatshift kit what ovrhaul kit
pleas share your experince..im a nobe to this .
04-17-2011, 09:40 AM
#2
I would suggest a basic master overhaul kit with bonded pistons. Either using a TTK or transtec over haul kit. As far as clutches I think that either Borg Warner or raybestos high energy frictions are just fine for what you are doing. The trans-go hd-2 kit is one that works well for this trans and I'm pretty sure that Jake from Jakes Performance has a kit that he uses in his builds and also sells it to the public. He is a sponsor over on ls1tech so you might want to look him up. Make sure to get a bushing kit because I'm sure you will have some worn bushings in this unit and also a new intermediate sprag.
I think the trans go kit is a good kit to use however I do modify it because I do not like the new stacked separator plate that comes in the kit. What I have been doing is just use a factory plate and drill the holes that they tell you to do in the kit for 2ND, 3rd and 4Th gears. Use all the other parts that come in the kit with the exception of the boost valve and sleeve. Get a Sonnax self regulating one and skip the step where they have you drill the valve body for their pressure relief set up. From there I will use a lock up valve kit from Sonnax in the valve body. Sonnax pt# 34994-01k.
For the trans build itself I normally just use factory Borg Warner clutches and add one extra to the direct drum. You can do this by using forward steels that are a little thinner than what is normally in the direct. Normally I use 4 or 5 in there with one or two of the normal ones to adjust clutch clearance. When you go to build this drum leave the center lip seal out of the drum and also the second Teflon ring from the top of the center support off. This will dual feed the direct drum to increase the holding power of it. There is one other thing I like to do to improve oil flow between the drum and the center support. Grind down the lands where we have removed the sealing ring using a die grinder or a lathe. This allows more room for the oil to get to the feed passages in the direct drum.
Now because we ditched the separator plate and have made mods to the direct drum and its seals we have something else to do here. You will need to modify either the case or the separator plate. I like to modify the case because its easier to do. Get a parking pawl plug for a Th350 or some times referred to a 2004r and block the case feed on the right side of the center support bolt. This can be installed with a simple punch and just install it until it is just under the gasket surface. The other way you will have to block the separator plate by using an aluminum plug and pin the hole shut. This has worked well for me and I hope it helps you out with your build. Vince Bielanski
I think the trans go kit is a good kit to use however I do modify it because I do not like the new stacked separator plate that comes in the kit. What I have been doing is just use a factory plate and drill the holes that they tell you to do in the kit for 2ND, 3rd and 4Th gears. Use all the other parts that come in the kit with the exception of the boost valve and sleeve. Get a Sonnax self regulating one and skip the step where they have you drill the valve body for their pressure relief set up. From there I will use a lock up valve kit from Sonnax in the valve body. Sonnax pt# 34994-01k.
For the trans build itself I normally just use factory Borg Warner clutches and add one extra to the direct drum. You can do this by using forward steels that are a little thinner than what is normally in the direct. Normally I use 4 or 5 in there with one or two of the normal ones to adjust clutch clearance. When you go to build this drum leave the center lip seal out of the drum and also the second Teflon ring from the top of the center support off. This will dual feed the direct drum to increase the holding power of it. There is one other thing I like to do to improve oil flow between the drum and the center support. Grind down the lands where we have removed the sealing ring using a die grinder or a lathe. This allows more room for the oil to get to the feed passages in the direct drum.
Now because we ditched the separator plate and have made mods to the direct drum and its seals we have something else to do here. You will need to modify either the case or the separator plate. I like to modify the case because its easier to do. Get a parking pawl plug for a Th350 or some times referred to a 2004r and block the case feed on the right side of the center support bolt. This can be installed with a simple punch and just install it until it is just under the gasket surface. The other way you will have to block the separator plate by using an aluminum plug and pin the hole shut. This has worked well for me and I hope it helps you out with your build. Vince Bielanski
Last edited by Vince B; 04-17-2011 at 09:46 AM.
04-18-2011, 04:31 PM
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I would suggest a basic master overhaul kit with bonded pistons. Either using a TTK or transtec over haul kit. As far as clutches I think that either Borg Warner or raybestos high energy frictions are just fine for what you are doing. The trans-go hd-2 kit is one that works well for this trans and I'm pretty sure that Jake from Jakes Performance has a kit that he uses in his builds and also sells it to the public. He is a sponsor over on ls1tech so you might want to look him up. Make sure to get a bushing kit because I'm sure you will have some worn bushings in this unit and also a new intermediate sprag.
I think the trans go kit is a good kit to use however I do modify it because I do not like the new stacked separator plate that comes in the kit. What I have been doing is just use a factory plate and drill the holes that they tell you to do in the kit for 2ND, 3rd and 4Th gears. Use all the other parts that come in the kit with the exception of the boost valve and sleeve. Get a Sonnax self regulating one and skip the step where they have you drill the valve body for their pressure relief set up. From there I will use a lock up valve kit from Sonnax in the valve body. Sonnax pt# 34994-01k.
For the trans build itself I normally just use factory Borg Warner clutches and add one extra to the direct drum. You can do this by using forward steels that are a little thinner than what is normally in the direct. Normally I use 4 or 5 in there with one or two of the normal ones to adjust clutch clearance. When you go to build this drum leave the center lip seal out of the drum and also the second Teflon ring from the top of the center support off. This will dual feed the direct drum to increase the holding power of it. There is one other thing I like to do to improve oil flow between the drum and the center support. Grind down the lands where we have removed the sealing ring using a die grinder or a lathe. This allows more room for the oil to get to the feed passages in the direct drum.
Now because we ditched the separator plate and have made mods to the direct drum and its seals we have something else to do here. You will need to modify either the case or the separator plate. I like to modify the case because its easier to do. Get a parking pawl plug for a Th350 or some times referred to a 2004r and block the case feed on the right side of the center support bolt. This can be installed with a simple punch and just install it until it is just under the gasket surface. The other way you will have to block the separator plate by using an aluminum plug and pin the hole shut. This has worked well for me and I hope it helps you out with your build. Vince Bielanski
I think the trans go kit is a good kit to use however I do modify it because I do not like the new stacked separator plate that comes in the kit. What I have been doing is just use a factory plate and drill the holes that they tell you to do in the kit for 2ND, 3rd and 4Th gears. Use all the other parts that come in the kit with the exception of the boost valve and sleeve. Get a Sonnax self regulating one and skip the step where they have you drill the valve body for their pressure relief set up. From there I will use a lock up valve kit from Sonnax in the valve body. Sonnax pt# 34994-01k.
For the trans build itself I normally just use factory Borg Warner clutches and add one extra to the direct drum. You can do this by using forward steels that are a little thinner than what is normally in the direct. Normally I use 4 or 5 in there with one or two of the normal ones to adjust clutch clearance. When you go to build this drum leave the center lip seal out of the drum and also the second Teflon ring from the top of the center support off. This will dual feed the direct drum to increase the holding power of it. There is one other thing I like to do to improve oil flow between the drum and the center support. Grind down the lands where we have removed the sealing ring using a die grinder or a lathe. This allows more room for the oil to get to the feed passages in the direct drum.
Now because we ditched the separator plate and have made mods to the direct drum and its seals we have something else to do here. You will need to modify either the case or the separator plate. I like to modify the case because its easier to do. Get a parking pawl plug for a Th350 or some times referred to a 2004r and block the case feed on the right side of the center support bolt. This can be installed with a simple punch and just install it until it is just under the gasket surface. The other way you will have to block the separator plate by using an aluminum plug and pin the hole shut. This has worked well for me and I hope it helps you out with your build. Vince Bielanski
ill try to understand all of that ...
i bearly understand the english motor words....
ill gather my infos and come back to this if any one can chim in and translate for me
04-18-2011, 07:45 PM
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Any other tips you could share with us Vince? I've rebuilt tons of 4l60s and a few 4l80s but never for performance applications. The nice thing about being a world class dealer tech is at least I can get my hands on all of the j-tools for free. 
04-18-2011, 09:48 PM
#6
not to be a total dink but who the hell would buy a "rebuilt" transmission from someone who asks "i need recomendations on what clutches to buy whatshift kit what ovrhaul kit" and then states "im a nobe to this" 
05-03-2011, 11:47 PM
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ok trying not to hijck the thread but may help some.... vince, i have had a transgo hd2 kit installed in my 80e for a while and now im doing a complete rebuild. my question is should i leave the holes drilled in the valve body that have been done per the hd2 instructions? cause is see that you skip this step and also use the sonnax boost valve which i have purchased. Also I have a super comp direct clutch assembly coming from ckperformance and i am curious if you recommend dual feeding it which i read above in your post. Have any links to the plug for the case and or any pics on how this is performed? just trying to build a bullet proof tranny i can hammer on...dont wanna miss any tips or tricks from the master
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zaathur151
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07-06-2015 10:57 PM
4l80e, build, dealers, drilling, dual, feeding, jakes, kit, performance, plate, rebuild, rebuilding, rebuilt, separator, transmission
