Installing Transgo HD2 on 4L60E. Tips?
#1
Installing Transgo HD2 on 4L60E. Tips?
Going to be installing my transgo HD-2 kit on my 4L60E this week. Ive been thread digging and reading up, just wanted a place to have people give me any tips that I may have missed.
Thanks in advance
-Cook
Thanks in advance
-Cook
#3
they say to drill them all to 0.093 accept the 1-2 shift which can be 0.082 for short or 0.093 for fullrace/high stall, 2-3 shift 0.093 high-stall conv or fullrace 0.101.
the 2-3 shift is what confused me. do i have to drill this spot?
im running a yank ss3600, what do u guys recommend?
the 2-3 shift is what confused me. do i have to drill this spot?
im running a yank ss3600, what do u guys recommend?
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#8
i plan on putting none in mine when i get around to getting it put in. Im going to have a 3000-3200 stall with it. I might say being you have a 3600 stall, that maybe 1 washer would be a good idea
#9
I'll be installing the HD2 next, but I'm accumulating other parts to install with it:
- TransGo hardened separator plate
- Torlon check *****
- TransGo vacuum modulator (46-MOD)
- Sonnax pinless forward accumulator
- Sonnax pinless 3-4 accumulator
- OEM aluminum 1-2 accumulator (the Sonnax pinless one is incompatible with the HD2 here)
- drain plug (or older pan with drain plug if I can find one that works)
I've already installed a 3K+ stall from Circle D, both Sonnax billet servos plus chromemoly servo pin, and a Tru-Cool 40K cooler. I'm not planning to use any spacers in the 1-2, and I'm planning to run the purple spring. Still researching hole size for the separator plate (and maybe a couple of other valve body upgrade parts that I haven't learned about yet, LOL).
- TransGo hardened separator plate
- Torlon check *****
- TransGo vacuum modulator (46-MOD)
- Sonnax pinless forward accumulator
- Sonnax pinless 3-4 accumulator
- OEM aluminum 1-2 accumulator (the Sonnax pinless one is incompatible with the HD2 here)
- drain plug (or older pan with drain plug if I can find one that works)
I've already installed a 3K+ stall from Circle D, both Sonnax billet servos plus chromemoly servo pin, and a Tru-Cool 40K cooler. I'm not planning to use any spacers in the 1-2, and I'm planning to run the purple spring. Still researching hole size for the separator plate (and maybe a couple of other valve body upgrade parts that I haven't learned about yet, LOL).
#10
When I installed mine:
2002, 4.8, TSP 220 cam, LTs . . . no stall.
TransGo HD2c, Hardened plate, vette servo, stock "4th servo", aluminum accumulator piston (stock was plastic)
Daily driver, 150+ miles rount trip every day, half of that driven in stop and go traffic.
I pulled a boat, multch, rocks, crushed granit . . . whatever
I had 2 washers, but later removed them. (stock stall, annoying 1-2 shift with passengers)
I drilled the plate to the 2nd largest hole for the 1-2 shift, and for all the others the smallest drill bit.
I left out the small screens that go onto the plate also. I broke two sets of them.
My 1-2 shift would "scratch" the 1-2 shift with the stock cam,
with the cam it would spin the tires over
the rest of the shifts were nice and firm.
If you do the vac mod, you cannot use the PCM to control the line pressures.
I got lots of abuse out of my trans, it never slipped or over heated on loads or pulls. I did the complete kit except for the rear internal springs.
If you do use the trans in a "manual mode" . . . meaning you're down shifting it manually, be sure to speed match the engine with the trans before you drop it in gear.
2002, 4.8, TSP 220 cam, LTs . . . no stall.
TransGo HD2c, Hardened plate, vette servo, stock "4th servo", aluminum accumulator piston (stock was plastic)
Daily driver, 150+ miles rount trip every day, half of that driven in stop and go traffic.
I pulled a boat, multch, rocks, crushed granit . . . whatever
I had 2 washers, but later removed them. (stock stall, annoying 1-2 shift with passengers)
I drilled the plate to the 2nd largest hole for the 1-2 shift, and for all the others the smallest drill bit.
I left out the small screens that go onto the plate also. I broke two sets of them.
My 1-2 shift would "scratch" the 1-2 shift with the stock cam,
with the cam it would spin the tires over
the rest of the shifts were nice and firm.
If you do the vac mod, you cannot use the PCM to control the line pressures.
I got lots of abuse out of my trans, it never slipped or over heated on loads or pulls. I did the complete kit except for the rear internal springs.
If you do use the trans in a "manual mode" . . . meaning you're down shifting it manually, be sure to speed match the engine with the trans before you drop it in gear.