1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

here is the sticker on the side of the crate

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Is there a Hole in the motorcycle stand for the output shaft to go through???

Talk about Lazy, I have a freind that did it on the back of a tail gate...

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

look up this Item number: 200688377615

This kit Sold recently for less then $400

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

Lol, no thanks. What I am interested in is your tool kit. Are you willing to let it go?
Not a bad idea. Plus mine has a tray underneath so it could hold at least 3-4 quarts. Also the legs have dimple die holes so Icould use a tie down to secure the trans. I think I'll try that.

Man I tried that number too. Nothing came up on google.


200688377615 - Google Search

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Don't google it Search Ebay.

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

Personally I think you can get away with the sizing tools for the input shaft rings, large hose clamp tool for the pump and the 4th clutch housing lip seal tools. As long as your using the bonded pistons for the forward and direct drums no other sizers are needed. To install the rear rotating assembly I use a pair of vise grips pliers and lower everything from the center support to the output shaft into the case. These pliers are kind of like a C clamp so to speak. Not sure what they are actual classified as. From there some feeler gauges, snap ring pliers, screw driver, sockets, hammer, torque wrenchfor inch and foot lbs and your ready to roll. If you are replacing bushings you will have to get creative with sockets or bushing drivers if you have them for the various bushings in the unit. HTH Vince

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Snap ring pliers are a must for tthe few spots there needed.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

I guess I aint to good with them there dang ol internets haha

Thanks Vince (the 4l80e master). Do the bonded pistons for the forward and direct drums have more strength than the standard ones? Any suggestions on a good cheap brand for the in/lb wrench? IIRC there are some areas that need to be torqued to 13 in/lbs. or maybe that was a rear end?

Yes and high quality ones at that. Never use the cheap ones (i.e. Harbor freight) with the changeable tips. Those have a tendency to fly off under pressure.

Thanks guys!

Gilbert@Ace Racing

Interesting thread indeed! Between the Holidays and my workload I just haven't had time to get in here and beat the boards. Thanks guys, I've been slammed for several months now! You guys are the ****!

As far as the tools... My special tools are right on par with Vince and Jake. Jake suggested electrical tape for resizing rings, it works just fine in a pinch... Been there done that on oddball units in the past. One variation on Vince's custom billet anodized and dipped in gold hose clamp resizer is to use a piece of thick cardboard between the hose clamp and the seal. But there's no substitute for the correct tools. Once I've resized the seals I'll usually install the related shaft and hub together for a few hours in order to let the seal relax in its correct hole. Oh... and sometimes if I'm pressed for time I'll throw the shaft or assembly in the shop freezer to expidite the process! But that's pretty rare...

The torque wrenches are paramount to being successful. A decent snap ring plier selection is a must to keep from damaging hardware.

Common sense will be your absolute best tool inside an automatic transmission though.

As far as bonded stamped steel pistons vs cast aluminum pistons. The stamped steel piston is muuuch more flexible as opposed to the cast aluminum part. Meaning they will take a hell of a lot more abuse than any cast aluminum piston will.

Good Luck with your builds guys!

g