parish8

iTrader: (6)

i am sure some of this has been talked about before and i have even asked some of these questions before but i still dont have it all strait.

1/2 ton has a 8.5" rear?
2500 has a 10.5" semi floating? or a 11.5" full floater?


my questions for the 10.5"

what is semi floting?
does it have c clips?
would it pass nhra rules for no c clip axles?
is it stronger than a ford 9"?
can you weld the holes for the studs and drill out holes for a 6 bolt rims?
does it still have the crappy g80 and does that part still crap out on those rears?
how much more does it weigh?
is it the exact same width as a 8.5" rear?
are the brackets in the proper place to just bolt one into a 1/2 ton?
are the ujoints and yolks the same on a 2500? i know the front yolk on the drive shaft is at least similur since i didn't chage my 1/2 ton one and it fit right into the 2500 tcase.
would ford 9" be better or are there other rears to consider?

i called the local junk yard and they want $1000 for a complete rear. i might be abel to get them down a couple hundred calling in a favor or two but even then i am looking at $800. that seems like a lot especialy considering it will still need a real posi and a way to make it 6 lug. i could end up close to $1500 but that would be with brakes and everything. i dont think you could get a 9" ready to drop in with breaks and everything for close to $1500.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

james b has posted info on this, as well as myself, if you don't have your answers by the time I get back from dinner I'll post up what I know

parish8

iTrader: (6)

james b set up looks complicated and his rear failed.

i see talks of old 9.5's and new 10.5's and all kinds of stuff but still dont know what all i would have to do to make one work in my truck.

would it be as easy as puting in the tom's axles and bolting it up? would this be the correct width? brackets located right? will my rotors work on those axles or do i modify the 8 lug rotor?

i have many questions, it would be nice to find someone that has done the swap and can list all that needed to be done.

mzoomora

iTrader: (31)

The 10.5 is a full-float axle, no c-clips. The 9.5 is a semi-float that uses c-clips. Not to get off subject but a 9" is still a semi-floating axle but doesnt use c-clips, so the two issues arent always seperate. If you are after strength a 9.5 is a pretty tough axle and would bolt right in. The 10.5 would require different wheels at least. The u-joint would most likely be different between the 9.5 and 8.5, but you could probalby find a conversion joint that would allow you to reuse your driveshaft.
I would think your 8.6 is on borrowed time, but in a 4wd it might just need some upgrades. Weld the axle tubes, Eaton posi, upgraded axles, solid pinion spacer- that would make it a pretty solid rear- about on par with a completely stock 9.5. The other issue is that there is no c-clip eliminator for the 9.5 that I know of, but it has been a while since I even looked. If you are worried about tech inspection then you could always do a c-clip eliminator for the 8.6, or do the 10.5, which would be a drag on your drivetrain.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-1410_Yoke/

heres a little tidbit on the 10.5"

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

kinda dated, but gives you an idea:

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/howto/3084/

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/37058/

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

If I was going to upgrade the housing,knowing the horsepower you're pushing, I would go with a 9in Ford. Of course, you would have to get one modified to fit your truck, with the right length, spring perches, etc., but you could get any width you want, upgrade your yokes, and pretty much make it bullet proof. Plus....with the 9in, you can change gears MUCH easier. Moser sells noe as pretty much a bolt in unit, they are pricy, but look at the horsepower you're talking about using! I think you're out of the zone of factory stuff.

SBChevrolet

simi floating is like what your stock 10bolt is. Full floating is where you have bolt on hubs. The 11.5 Is a really good rear end they are really strong but they are huge and heavy I think there the only way to go in a offroad truck but you are for racing(still not a bad choice probably add 200lbs to your truck though) The G80 is better but for your case I would go ahead and put in a Detroit. I THINK you will need a conversion U-Joint(I know you do on older trucks) you can get those at napa. As for the 9" they really are great rear ends (8.8 isent bad either plus they have less rolling resiance) there tons of parts available for the 9" and even from the factory they have almost the same size shafts as a 14Bolt. But as you may have noticed from other forums I cant stand ford parts on a Chevrolet. Another option is to have a custom rear end built I think a Dana 60 with bolt in axles would be a good choice IMO

parish8

iTrader: (6)

ok, i still see talk of an 11.5" a 10.5" and a 9.5"

there are only 2 of these avaliable in the late model 2500 trucks right? wich 2?

BMDMAX

The 10.5 and the 11.5. Only the 8.1 or Duramax trucks equipped with the Allison trans received the 11.5 rear.

The 11.5 will absolutely hold the power you are making BUT there are no locker options currently available. The Trac-Rite torsen diff I am running is holding 700+ HP / 1500 plus foot pounds and hooks really well so that is a good route if you decide to pursue it.