lets talk about rear ends
#21
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Just want to throw my $0.02 in.
Everybody KNOWS the 9" Ford is bulletproof. But sadly, its only bulletproof if you use ALL of the right parts. Like 35 or 40 spline aftermarket axles and the big bearing pinion support and the nodular case and...... At that point they get pretty pricey.
The wonderful thing about a 9" is the fact that its a poor man's quick change. Swapping gear sets (center sections) is reasonably easy (Nextel cup teams used to change them in 10 to 15 minutes). Even your average backyard dirt track team can swap center sections in under 30 minutes, assuming you have a 2nd center section loaded with the gears.
The 9" does cost you more in power than say a 12-bolt. The pinion is lower in the case, which scrubs more power into heat than some of the more efficient designs. And the pinion shaft is pretty small (1.313" vs car 12-bolt's 1.625" shaft).
For your 4wd application, I don't think you care about being able to swap gears easy (since the front end would still be a royal PITA).
'Dreamin'
Everybody KNOWS the 9" Ford is bulletproof. But sadly, its only bulletproof if you use ALL of the right parts. Like 35 or 40 spline aftermarket axles and the big bearing pinion support and the nodular case and...... At that point they get pretty pricey.
The wonderful thing about a 9" is the fact that its a poor man's quick change. Swapping gear sets (center sections) is reasonably easy (Nextel cup teams used to change them in 10 to 15 minutes). Even your average backyard dirt track team can swap center sections in under 30 minutes, assuming you have a 2nd center section loaded with the gears.
The 9" does cost you more in power than say a 12-bolt. The pinion is lower in the case, which scrubs more power into heat than some of the more efficient designs. And the pinion shaft is pretty small (1.313" vs car 12-bolt's 1.625" shaft).
For your 4wd application, I don't think you care about being able to swap gears easy (since the front end would still be a royal PITA).
'Dreamin'
#23
Originally Posted by moregrip
Parish, Have you contacted Tom's Diffrentials? what kind of recommendations are you getting from the diff shops?
from everything i am reading/seeing this is going to be very expensive. more expensive than the front wich i didn't think was posiable. if all options end up at $2500+ then i am going to just try a good locker in the rear i have and see how long it lasts. really 2 nitto DR's in a light rear ended truck isn't the bigest load.
soo. probably just stick a good locker in the rear and beef up the front. for the front i can buy a 2500 front diff for $600, 2 custom half shafts for $1200/pair. and hopefully slap that thing in there. maybe some kind of elocker down the road but i dont think it would be worth the money.
#26
Originally Posted by black4x4
have you taken any measurments yet for that front swap cause what i have read is it doesn't fit without a complete swap. but thats just what i red
the 2500 front is 2" wider than the 1500 front.
there are places that can make custom halfshafts that are stronger than stock, shorter to take up that 1" per side, have the 1500 outside and the 2500 flange on the inside. the cost is about $600/side.
it is the same style as the 1500, just bigger, i am hoping it just bolts in other than the halfshafts but if it need more room i think i can make more room for it. if i have to i will just build everything i need underthere to hold it in place.
with my motor out right now this is a perfect time to take a good look at things. i have a junk 2500 front that i try and fit in there.
#27
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Originally Posted by parish8
soo. probably just stick a good locker in the rear and beef up the front. for the front i can buy a 2500 front diff for $600, 2 custom half shafts for $1200/pair. and hopefully slap that thing in there. maybe some kind of elocker down the road but i dont think it would be worth the money.
#28
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Originally Posted by parish8
here is what i know.
the 2500 front is 2" wider than the 1500 front.
there are places that can make custom halfshafts that are stronger than stock, shorter to take up that 1" per side, have the 1500 outside and the 2500 flange on the inside. the cost is about $600/side.
it is the same style as the 1500, just bigger, i am hoping it just bolts in other than the halfshafts but if it need more room i think i can make more room for it. if i have to i will just build everything i need underthere to hold it in place.
with my motor out right now this is a perfect time to take a good look at things. i have a junk 2500 front that i try and fit in there.
the 2500 front is 2" wider than the 1500 front.
there are places that can make custom halfshafts that are stronger than stock, shorter to take up that 1" per side, have the 1500 outside and the 2500 flange on the inside. the cost is about $600/side.
it is the same style as the 1500, just bigger, i am hoping it just bolts in other than the halfshafts but if it need more room i think i can make more room for it. if i have to i will just build everything i need underthere to hold it in place.
with my motor out right now this is a perfect time to take a good look at things. i have a junk 2500 front that i try and fit in there.
#29
Originally Posted by black4x4
since you are getting the custom cvs then i guess you should be able do the swap maybe just need some custom mounts. also while your upgrading your front have you thought about a set of tie rods to since you launch in 4wd.
#30
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yes cognito motorsports heres alink with pics and phone number.http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5411 the only problem with them is they are set up in a single sheer type fashion at the knuckles.