A little about PerformaBuilt FYI
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From: SUGAR LOAF PA
These are some pics of a recent level 2 build
This is the reverse input drum next to be installed the 2-4 band rides on it. The clutches in it are only aplied during reverse.
This is the drum installd into the case and the band along with the installation of the band. Some install the band in the case first, I prefer after to avoid scuffing it.
These are pictures of the servo , servo bore and it installed. This particular servo set up is used in our level 2 and 3 and its actually a littl tedious to install. You have to be very carefull not to damage the teflon rings and make very sure you get the snap ring fully seated it its not then it will work its way out and as it does break the case.
This is a picture of the case channel area .The round hole near the top is where the band lug goes its important when installing the band to make sure that the end of the lug actually does go in the band anchor or you will not have 2 and 4th gears.
This is the valvebody installed.
Picture of front pump stator and input shaft splins
This is the number system we use to keep track of the units by who they belong to and when they were built . I am sure many of you that have our trans have wondered about this number, It is also stamped in the case. Somewhere out there is # 1
Well thatS all I have for now there were alotta pictures but I dId npt use the ones that were so bad as not to be veiwable, I will redo this post another day with better pictures. Its very fustrating to spend so much time taking pictures and have them come out blurry , Its obvious I am not a photographer.
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From: SUGAR LOAF PA
A little about our dyno
We recently got and have functioning our DYNO here is a little description. It was built for us from a design I made by a local but nationally known CYCLE SHOP.
I figured they make customer bikes bodies from scratch all the time so why not , We wanted a dyno but at the same time we didn’t need one that could test every trans for every kind of car, We needed one to test the trans we sell. After all the astro dyno was on its last legs. We beat on her all she could stand. So they took on the project and here is what we ended up with its a static brake type driven by a 40 hp three phase electric motor.
I must say I am very pleased with this addition to the PerformaBuit tools. While there are advantages to a vehicle test there are plenty to a DYNO too , 1 being the ability to hear better what’s happening with the trans and the ability to stop and make quick changes and pressure adjustments easily. Our new addition cannot test FWD but can test any rear wheel drive application, Later when we finish a few cosmetic additions I will post a picture of it, But we have been using it a little over a week and other than a minor snafu with the brake part. (Ripped the splines out of the center. electric motors are the hotrods of the future, Fixed now I have been very pleased with it. You may have noticed the past week I haven’t been around as much, This is why , They built it now its was my job to make all the gadgets to make it do all we wanted and make sure it did them well. I guess it was handy taking electronics engineering in 2 years at college after all. Just wish had done better in English and grammar as all of you I am sure know lol.
Frank
I figured they make customer bikes bodies from scratch all the time so why not , We wanted a dyno but at the same time we didn’t need one that could test every trans for every kind of car, We needed one to test the trans we sell. After all the astro dyno was on its last legs. We beat on her all she could stand. So they took on the project and here is what we ended up with its a static brake type driven by a 40 hp three phase electric motor.
I must say I am very pleased with this addition to the PerformaBuit tools. While there are advantages to a vehicle test there are plenty to a DYNO too , 1 being the ability to hear better what’s happening with the trans and the ability to stop and make quick changes and pressure adjustments easily. Our new addition cannot test FWD but can test any rear wheel drive application, Later when we finish a few cosmetic additions I will post a picture of it, But we have been using it a little over a week and other than a minor snafu with the brake part. (Ripped the splines out of the center. electric motors are the hotrods of the future, Fixed now I have been very pleased with it. You may have noticed the past week I haven’t been around as much, This is why , They built it now its was my job to make all the gadgets to make it do all we wanted and make sure it did them well. I guess it was handy taking electronics engineering in 2 years at college after all. Just wish had done better in English and grammar as all of you I am sure know lol.
Frank
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From: SUGAR LOAF PA
How Important is it to flush or replace your cooler
This is possibly the single most important thing you need to do before and install. Things tend to accumulate in the cooler like plak in artries of cholesterol. This material consist of clutch material, Tiny metal flakes and oil sludge. Now it may not seem that this could be a large amount of material, However it can hold alot and heres what happens when you install a new trans with a dirty cooler. The new fluild traverses through the cooler full of detergents and at a high presure than before. This breaks loose the material and it then travels through the lube circuit into the input and output shaft then through these into the planets and bushings finally ending up in the pan and filter.
Now you would think it would be a small amount and many times it is, However I have seen exstreme cases where in my own shop years ago a tech failed to flush a cooler and the car left and came back just a few days later with issues and pulled down the unit to find large amounts of material in the pan and the fliter restricted, Then proceeded to tear down the unit and cut the converter only to find that there was no source for any of the material. And thats how much can be there, It is imperitive that the cooler be fully flushed and blown out and just blowing one out is not adequate. Or even replaced.
We furnish trans flush with every unit we sell. Its called KOOLER KLEEN and this should allways be used when replacin a trans . Spraying a little brake clean in there is not enough then blowing out with air. The cooler flush should be placed on each line and 1/2 can used in each direction then air should be used to blow out in each direction while watching what comes out if you still have any debris coming out with the air then the cooler must be replaced.
I cannot stress how important this is. To us we consider it so important that if you receive a trans from us without it do not install call us so we can get it to you ASAP.
In my years at this I have learned that many failures and shift operational issue can be traced back to the cooler not being properly cleaned or replaced. Not cleaning a cooler before you install a new trans is like taking a bath in sewer water-Whats the point
Now you would think it would be a small amount and many times it is, However I have seen exstreme cases where in my own shop years ago a tech failed to flush a cooler and the car left and came back just a few days later with issues and pulled down the unit to find large amounts of material in the pan and the fliter restricted, Then proceeded to tear down the unit and cut the converter only to find that there was no source for any of the material. And thats how much can be there, It is imperitive that the cooler be fully flushed and blown out and just blowing one out is not adequate. Or even replaced.
We furnish trans flush with every unit we sell. Its called KOOLER KLEEN and this should allways be used when replacin a trans . Spraying a little brake clean in there is not enough then blowing out with air. The cooler flush should be placed on each line and 1/2 can used in each direction then air should be used to blow out in each direction while watching what comes out if you still have any debris coming out with the air then the cooler must be replaced.
I cannot stress how important this is. To us we consider it so important that if you receive a trans from us without it do not install call us so we can get it to you ASAP.
In my years at this I have learned that many failures and shift operational issue can be traced back to the cooler not being properly cleaned or replaced. Not cleaning a cooler before you install a new trans is like taking a bath in sewer water-Whats the point
#17
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From: SUGAR LOAF PA
Cooler installation information
Many of you add aftermarket coolers to your cars and this is allways a good idea. Here are some hints.
1-Allways mount the cooler in a place that has good air flow and if mounting in front of the radiator always make sure the fin's in the cooler are parael with the fin's in the radiator to avoid restricting air flow to the radiator. If you must place the cooler in and area with litle air flow a FAN is a must.
2-When Installing coolers make sure lines are clear of anything that can rub them and always use line thats aproved for trans/hydraulic fluid. Fuel line will not work and will break down in transmission fluid.
3-By passing the radiator is the way I prefer a cooler be set up. Generally the trans will run cooler this way and additionally this may take some of the load off the radiators job of cooling the engine.
4-When hooking up multiple coolers sevral things should be noted. The cooler itself is a restriction of flow and this restriction while not a problem for the cooling or lube to the trans can cause excessive presure inside the converter. This can force the converter against the flex plate more so than normal and cause wear to the engine thrust bearing. A stopped up or severly restricted cooler or cooler lines can do the same. So when installing more than one cooler its advised to put them in paraell with each other, This means one line from the trans is split with a Y and one line run to each cooler then out of each and into a Y back to a single line running to the trans. This will assure adequate cooling while reducing the wear to the engine thrust bearing. Always use line thats at least as large as the inlets in the cooler, Avoid exstreme twist or turns in them particularly with rubber lines.
5-Type and brands of coolers. I really have no preference here as far as brand. From my expereince and exspensive brand name or a generic unit appear to do tha same job. I have found the stacked plate (Flat tube) Types when measured inlet to outlet temp drop tend to be more efficient in the same dimensional sizes with a greater temperature drop. I did a test once with two coolers in paraell one round tube and one flat with a laser thermometer to determine this.
6-This is not specifically about a cooler but about cooling. Always be sure that the metal lines coming from the trans under car do not contact the headers or exhaust. I once had a car where the trans temps would sky rocket when the car was being run hard and couldnt understand why. I after some looking around found that the cooler lines in and out were pinned against the headers. This would super heat the fluid when the headers got hot. Moved them away and the problem was solved, So allways keep trans cooler lines factory or otherwise as far away from the exhaust as possible.
7-Trans temps- This question get ask alot whats TOO HOT. Well ideally you want you average temp to stay under 190 degrees however I would not get to conerned till the temps get at and or over 230 degrees. Heat can damage a trans but with the exception of extreme heat 250 or higher this damage is a long term killer by breaking down fluid and causing rubber seals to harden and break.
8-Never use your cooler lines to remove fluid from your trans by starting the engine. or in and attempt to flush by catching fluid in a pan while adding fluid to the dipstick. When this is done no lube is beig sent to the planets and bushings and the can go dry and melt down very quickly detroying or significantly shortening the life of your transmission.
9-It is advisable to fully and properly flush a cooler especially when a converter failure is involved. Where a trans internal failure is unlikley to put debris in the cooler since all fluid coming from trans must travel through the trans filter. Where fluid coming from the Pump or converter does not and any debris from these will certainly end up in the cooler. Its allways a good idea to power flush a cooler or replace after a failure but is particulary important in this case of this type failure. Anything thats in your cooler or lines will end up in your valve body, Bushings and Planets. A cooler cannot be properly cleaned simply by blowing air through them. A can of cooler flush which most trans shops and or trans parts suppliers should have followed by a blow out with air is the correct way to do it.
10-When installing rubber cooler lines to metal lines its a good idea to put a small flair at the end of the metal line. Not too big because you will tear the line on the inside during install. Then place a clamp just ahead of the flair. Also roughening up the outer surface of the metal line with very coarse sand paper in area where clamp will ride will help assure a good seal and reduce the possibility of blow off.Never over tighten clamps to the point of the rubber ozzing through or being cut this well cause a failure too.
11-Temp sending units- The best place for these is in the pan since that will give the best average temperature which is whats important, Using the presure port is ok however you will show temps 10 to 20 dress higher average than you would in the pan.I do not suggest placing temp senders in either the inlet or outlet from the cooler as they will increase cooler restriction and increase the odds of a leak.
1-Allways mount the cooler in a place that has good air flow and if mounting in front of the radiator always make sure the fin's in the cooler are parael with the fin's in the radiator to avoid restricting air flow to the radiator. If you must place the cooler in and area with litle air flow a FAN is a must.
2-When Installing coolers make sure lines are clear of anything that can rub them and always use line thats aproved for trans/hydraulic fluid. Fuel line will not work and will break down in transmission fluid.
3-By passing the radiator is the way I prefer a cooler be set up. Generally the trans will run cooler this way and additionally this may take some of the load off the radiators job of cooling the engine.
4-When hooking up multiple coolers sevral things should be noted. The cooler itself is a restriction of flow and this restriction while not a problem for the cooling or lube to the trans can cause excessive presure inside the converter. This can force the converter against the flex plate more so than normal and cause wear to the engine thrust bearing. A stopped up or severly restricted cooler or cooler lines can do the same. So when installing more than one cooler its advised to put them in paraell with each other, This means one line from the trans is split with a Y and one line run to each cooler then out of each and into a Y back to a single line running to the trans. This will assure adequate cooling while reducing the wear to the engine thrust bearing. Always use line thats at least as large as the inlets in the cooler, Avoid exstreme twist or turns in them particularly with rubber lines.
5-Type and brands of coolers. I really have no preference here as far as brand. From my expereince and exspensive brand name or a generic unit appear to do tha same job. I have found the stacked plate (Flat tube) Types when measured inlet to outlet temp drop tend to be more efficient in the same dimensional sizes with a greater temperature drop. I did a test once with two coolers in paraell one round tube and one flat with a laser thermometer to determine this.
6-This is not specifically about a cooler but about cooling. Always be sure that the metal lines coming from the trans under car do not contact the headers or exhaust. I once had a car where the trans temps would sky rocket when the car was being run hard and couldnt understand why. I after some looking around found that the cooler lines in and out were pinned against the headers. This would super heat the fluid when the headers got hot. Moved them away and the problem was solved, So allways keep trans cooler lines factory or otherwise as far away from the exhaust as possible.
7-Trans temps- This question get ask alot whats TOO HOT. Well ideally you want you average temp to stay under 190 degrees however I would not get to conerned till the temps get at and or over 230 degrees. Heat can damage a trans but with the exception of extreme heat 250 or higher this damage is a long term killer by breaking down fluid and causing rubber seals to harden and break.
8-Never use your cooler lines to remove fluid from your trans by starting the engine. or in and attempt to flush by catching fluid in a pan while adding fluid to the dipstick. When this is done no lube is beig sent to the planets and bushings and the can go dry and melt down very quickly detroying or significantly shortening the life of your transmission.
9-It is advisable to fully and properly flush a cooler especially when a converter failure is involved. Where a trans internal failure is unlikley to put debris in the cooler since all fluid coming from trans must travel through the trans filter. Where fluid coming from the Pump or converter does not and any debris from these will certainly end up in the cooler. Its allways a good idea to power flush a cooler or replace after a failure but is particulary important in this case of this type failure. Anything thats in your cooler or lines will end up in your valve body, Bushings and Planets. A cooler cannot be properly cleaned simply by blowing air through them. A can of cooler flush which most trans shops and or trans parts suppliers should have followed by a blow out with air is the correct way to do it.
10-When installing rubber cooler lines to metal lines its a good idea to put a small flair at the end of the metal line. Not too big because you will tear the line on the inside during install. Then place a clamp just ahead of the flair. Also roughening up the outer surface of the metal line with very coarse sand paper in area where clamp will ride will help assure a good seal and reduce the possibility of blow off.Never over tighten clamps to the point of the rubber ozzing through or being cut this well cause a failure too.
11-Temp sending units- The best place for these is in the pan since that will give the best average temperature which is whats important, Using the presure port is ok however you will show temps 10 to 20 dress higher average than you would in the pan.I do not suggest placing temp senders in either the inlet or outlet from the cooler as they will increase cooler restriction and increase the odds of a leak.
#18
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From: SUGAR LOAF PA
Little Tech on fluid levels
Fluid level is spoken about often here are the facts. With and auto trans and in particular the 4L60E there is no such thing as low. If you let the trans get even 1/2 quart low you will and or have damaged your transmission. They are absolutley not forgiving. We recently did some intentional test with a unit we use to check different ideas. Heres what we found at 1/2 quart low aprox 1/2 inch bellow pan rail we ran the trans. We monitored presures etc. The presures in this condition were completely unstable. Jumping from very low to beyond the max of our 300 PSI guage.as you changed gears particulary on the 2-3 3-4 and the reverse gears this condition became worse. I could easily see how after doing these test you could do a mirade of damage to your trans even this small amount low. In the case of the low presure the result would be obvious burned frictions however at the same time the presure spikes could just as easily break parts, push out snap rings ect causing serious damage and or sudden failures.
Now in a past test several years ago I did a similar test going in the other direction too much fluid. Heres what happened there, this was however unlike the first test with a 4l60e it was a 700r4 though would imagine the results would be similar. Adding one quart over after hitting the full line did not seem to have any notable effect. However adding two quarts over the trans began again to have presures resembling the low fluid scenario the presue dropped and spiked eratically and of course the fluid began quickly to resemble the apearance of the low fluid trans lots of air bubbleS and since a trans is not so different from a brake system the result was similar. You cannot have stable hydraulic presure with air in the fluid.
The air created in the low fluid scenario is a result of the filter becoming uncovered and the pump pulling air into the system. With the resulting crazy presure readings and the exstremley high fluid this occured because the internal rotational assemblies in the trans were acting alot like a blender and churning air into the fluid more rapidly than it could bubble out.
The Point on this is fluid level is imperativly important with and auto. There is no such thing as a little low. A little low means you just took years off the life of your trans or even killed it right now.
All trans should always be kept at the top of the crosshatch level warm running in park or neutral. Idealy I wish there was a way to assure the trans fluid was equal to the pan rail level in gear running. But I do understand why they dont have you checking it that way
Another thing that should be addressed is aftermarket and stock deep pans. Some aftermarket pans while deep do not require a deep filter. Others require and exstention . Still others use the deep filter like goes in the truck 4L60E. Always carefully read the pan manufacturers instructions. While reguardless of the pan type the dip stick will still read the level correctly. If you for instance use a deep pan with the wrong filter bear in mind GM actually used the bottom of the pan to hold the filter up in place. True the little seal feels tight holding it in the pump but it can work its way out and drop into the pan when used this way. This will result in the trans acting like its low on fluid even when its not. At the same time if you place a fliter thats too tall for your pan combination it will crack in the neck area and again cause the syptom of low fluid. I thought I would mention this because we have run into this with some of our own customers changing pans and not being aware of the filter differences and requirements. So allways make sure you are using the correct type filter for the pan you are installing. Also note when installing a trans if you do not provide even support accross the pan again you can bend the pan and damage the filter causing the same set of syptoms
__________________
Now in a past test several years ago I did a similar test going in the other direction too much fluid. Heres what happened there, this was however unlike the first test with a 4l60e it was a 700r4 though would imagine the results would be similar. Adding one quart over after hitting the full line did not seem to have any notable effect. However adding two quarts over the trans began again to have presures resembling the low fluid scenario the presue dropped and spiked eratically and of course the fluid began quickly to resemble the apearance of the low fluid trans lots of air bubbleS and since a trans is not so different from a brake system the result was similar. You cannot have stable hydraulic presure with air in the fluid.
The air created in the low fluid scenario is a result of the filter becoming uncovered and the pump pulling air into the system. With the resulting crazy presure readings and the exstremley high fluid this occured because the internal rotational assemblies in the trans were acting alot like a blender and churning air into the fluid more rapidly than it could bubble out.
The Point on this is fluid level is imperativly important with and auto. There is no such thing as a little low. A little low means you just took years off the life of your trans or even killed it right now.
All trans should always be kept at the top of the crosshatch level warm running in park or neutral. Idealy I wish there was a way to assure the trans fluid was equal to the pan rail level in gear running. But I do understand why they dont have you checking it that way
Another thing that should be addressed is aftermarket and stock deep pans. Some aftermarket pans while deep do not require a deep filter. Others require and exstention . Still others use the deep filter like goes in the truck 4L60E. Always carefully read the pan manufacturers instructions. While reguardless of the pan type the dip stick will still read the level correctly. If you for instance use a deep pan with the wrong filter bear in mind GM actually used the bottom of the pan to hold the filter up in place. True the little seal feels tight holding it in the pump but it can work its way out and drop into the pan when used this way. This will result in the trans acting like its low on fluid even when its not. At the same time if you place a fliter thats too tall for your pan combination it will crack in the neck area and again cause the syptom of low fluid. I thought I would mention this because we have run into this with some of our own customers changing pans and not being aware of the filter differences and requirements. So allways make sure you are using the correct type filter for the pan you are installing. Also note when installing a trans if you do not provide even support accross the pan again you can bend the pan and damage the filter causing the same set of syptoms
__________________
#20
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From: SUGAR LOAF PA
Dtc Codes That Can Affect Trans Operation
P0100
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0104
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
Any MAF code can affect transmissions performance. The MAF is used by the transmission part of the PCM to measure engine load and this is used to ajust LINE PRESURE with the PCS. If you use and aftermarket oiled type filter its a good idea to clean your MAF regularly as a dirty MAF can lead to transmission failure.
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P0220
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent
Throttle Position is used for a couple different things with the trans it afects line presure and shift timing so it can have a major effect on overall trans performance. But I have also run into a situation where After a cam and or throttle body install where stacked shifts occur at WOT only, The fix that sevral have used it to change the top range on it from 60% to 70%. I am not sure of the exact place in the tuning you do this but will ask as we have had a few customers of our own tell me of this fix.
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P0300
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301
Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302
Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303
Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304
Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305
Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306
Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307
Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308
Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
Engine Missfire can cause a no or intermitant lockup condition. The PCM will disable lockup when its sees a missfire. Its also may mistake a Large cam as and engine missfire and mistakingly disable lockup. Raising the missfire threshold to max will generally solve this.
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P0700
Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701
Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702
Transmission Control System Electrical
These codes are set when theres a failure with the PCM itself normally however in the 05 up cars The code PO700 will set for any trans/control related issue and It simply means in these cases theres a code stored in the TCM that needs to be read since the TCM (Transmission control module) Is separate in these years.
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P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
These codes are set when the Park neutrals switch and or the manifold presure sensor on the valve body its giving and incorrect signal. This will cause improper trans performance since the PCM will recive incorrect information about what manual position you have the shifter in.
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P0710
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
These codes are set when the THERMISTOR in the Presure Manifold sensor is out of range. On the 60e and the 80E this is bolted to the valve body in the pan. The affect it can have is minor however it may cause the tans to operate in Hot mode or Cold mode at all times. This can have a minor effect on shift charateristics.
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P0715
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
These codes would only apply to The 4L80E and 4L70E there meanig is obvious and can cause irratic shifts.
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P0720
Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721
Output Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0722
Output Speed Sensor No Signal
P0723
Output Speed Sensor Intermittent
These codes are set for VSS and in the 80E for the rear speed sensor. They can result in no shift, irratic shifts, Late shifts. and no speedo reading of course.
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P0740
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
P0741
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
These codes will result in NO TCC lockup and or Constant TCC on conditions.
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P0751
Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off/
1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance
Can be set due to a bad **** solenoid but also can be set due to a high stall converter. In the case of high stall converters the test for this code should be removed from programing. This code may result in limp mode allways in 3rd gear. Also if you want to let the PCM control lockup with a FMVB this code must be turned off.
P0752
Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
Same effect as P0751
P0753
Shift Solenoid A Electrical/
1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical
This code means the shift solenoid is electrically bad or the circuit to it. This codes test should also be turned off if running a FMVB and allowing PCM to controll lockup
P0756
Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off/
2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance
Same comentary as PO751 AND PO752
P0757
Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
Same as PO756
P0758
Shift Solenoid B Electrical/ 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical
This code is and elecrical fault for shift solenoid b or the circuit. This code test also should be turned off it wishing to use the PCM to control lockup with a FMVB.
P1114
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage/IAT - B Circuit Low Input
P1115
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage/IAT - B Circuit High Input
Either one of these codes can cause a no lockup situation
PO1870 Component slipping
Genrally this code is set when TCC is comanded on and either it dosent happen or the converter clutch does not hold. It will result in high line and very harsh shifts. Generally if you have a no lockup situation and do not set this code the issue is tuning related.
I hope this information is usefull to some of you , I realize all the codes are not strictly for trucks but we serve several venues
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0104
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
Any MAF code can affect transmissions performance. The MAF is used by the transmission part of the PCM to measure engine load and this is used to ajust LINE PRESURE with the PCS. If you use and aftermarket oiled type filter its a good idea to clean your MAF regularly as a dirty MAF can lead to transmission failure.
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P0220
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229
Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent
Throttle Position is used for a couple different things with the trans it afects line presure and shift timing so it can have a major effect on overall trans performance. But I have also run into a situation where After a cam and or throttle body install where stacked shifts occur at WOT only, The fix that sevral have used it to change the top range on it from 60% to 70%. I am not sure of the exact place in the tuning you do this but will ask as we have had a few customers of our own tell me of this fix.
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P0300
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301
Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302
Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303
Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304
Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305
Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306
Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307
Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308
Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
Engine Missfire can cause a no or intermitant lockup condition. The PCM will disable lockup when its sees a missfire. Its also may mistake a Large cam as and engine missfire and mistakingly disable lockup. Raising the missfire threshold to max will generally solve this.
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P0700
Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701
Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702
Transmission Control System Electrical
These codes are set when theres a failure with the PCM itself normally however in the 05 up cars The code PO700 will set for any trans/control related issue and It simply means in these cases theres a code stored in the TCM that needs to be read since the TCM (Transmission control module) Is separate in these years.
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P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
These codes are set when the Park neutrals switch and or the manifold presure sensor on the valve body its giving and incorrect signal. This will cause improper trans performance since the PCM will recive incorrect information about what manual position you have the shifter in.
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P0710
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
These codes are set when the THERMISTOR in the Presure Manifold sensor is out of range. On the 60e and the 80E this is bolted to the valve body in the pan. The affect it can have is minor however it may cause the tans to operate in Hot mode or Cold mode at all times. This can have a minor effect on shift charateristics.
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P0715
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718
Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
These codes would only apply to The 4L80E and 4L70E there meanig is obvious and can cause irratic shifts.
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P0720
Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721
Output Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0722
Output Speed Sensor No Signal
P0723
Output Speed Sensor Intermittent
These codes are set for VSS and in the 80E for the rear speed sensor. They can result in no shift, irratic shifts, Late shifts. and no speedo reading of course.
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P0740
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
P0741
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
These codes will result in NO TCC lockup and or Constant TCC on conditions.
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P0751
Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off/
1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance
Can be set due to a bad **** solenoid but also can be set due to a high stall converter. In the case of high stall converters the test for this code should be removed from programing. This code may result in limp mode allways in 3rd gear. Also if you want to let the PCM control lockup with a FMVB this code must be turned off.
P0752
Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
Same effect as P0751
P0753
Shift Solenoid A Electrical/
1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical
This code means the shift solenoid is electrically bad or the circuit to it. This codes test should also be turned off if running a FMVB and allowing PCM to controll lockup
P0756
Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off/
2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance
Same comentary as PO751 AND PO752
P0757
Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
Same as PO756
P0758
Shift Solenoid B Electrical/ 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical
This code is and elecrical fault for shift solenoid b or the circuit. This code test also should be turned off it wishing to use the PCM to control lockup with a FMVB.
P1114
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage/IAT - B Circuit Low Input
P1115
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage/IAT - B Circuit High Input
Either one of these codes can cause a no lockup situation
PO1870 Component slipping
Genrally this code is set when TCC is comanded on and either it dosent happen or the converter clutch does not hold. It will result in high line and very harsh shifts. Generally if you have a no lockup situation and do not set this code the issue is tuning related.
I hope this information is usefull to some of you , I realize all the codes are not strictly for trucks but we serve several venues