1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

I never understood how people got away with no c-notch even with 4" of drop in the rear. On my '01 reg cab and my '01 x-cab both had about 2" of travel between frame and axle.

Doesnt take a big bump at all to make them meet.

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

I don't have a notch, and never bottom out. Any chance you can post pics of your rear suspension setup? Maybe I'll see something that may help your ride. Never know.

1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

Well now I have a c-notch so no worries.

Like I said before it always boggled my mind cause both my trucks slapped on occasion....drove me nuts. On shackles and hangers and no bumpstop, 2" of air between frame and axle. Dont see how I was always the only one hitting.

Maybe people just dont know what it feels like?

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

Mine did it for a couple years, then I figured out what I had done wrong. Now everything is much happier!

georodder

Hi guys. I appreciate your input. AKlowrider, I didn't remove the bumpstop bracket on the frame when I installed the shorter bumpstop, but please don't forget, I lowered a 4X4. I still have 4" between the rear axle and the frame. I left the 2" spacer block under the rear spring. I don't think that I need to c notch the frame yet. I'm not quite sure about the rear shocks though. What's the difference between 4wd rears and 2wd rears? The mounted shock length at static height is 18 1/2" [bolt hole to bolt hole] Should I use shocks for a lowered application? That's for helping

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

My truck, & almost every truck in the state, is 4x4 also. Trust me on this one, just spend the 15 minutes to remove the brackets & bolt the bump-stops to the frame. No drilling or anything, the holes are already there. 2WD trucks don't have the brackets, and they share the same frame rails.

As for shocks, I used KYB Monomax shocks for a SSS. They are shorter than stock 4x4 shocks, and they ride very well.

1Bear

iTrader: (1)

I also removed the bump-stop brackets when I removed the factory lift blocks, as my truck is also built on a 4WD chassis. For shocks, I’m using the Bilstein units for an SS application. It still rides a little rough, but is the nature for a light in the rear truck. It most likely is not helped by the fact my truck also has the higher capacity rear springs. About the only thing that makes the suspension compliable enough to feel comfortable is additional weight in the rear. Overall not bad, just stiff and handles decently with the Hotchkiss bars front and back.

georodder

Thanks guys. I'll try shorter shocks and see what that does for the ride. I'm not looking for a stiff ride, just one that's not soooo bouncy. Maybe the 2wd units will work. I've got Monroes in the rear now, but they're for a 4wd. They're not too expensive, so maybe I'll try those out. Do the 2wd front shocks bolt up the same as the 4wd ones do?

TurboJohn6

iTrader: (12)

Yes they do and that should fix your problem. You are probably bottoming out your 4WD shocks. You should also remove those bump stop mounting brackets like AK mentioned. It will give your suspension more travel.

006rcsb

i was going to mention removing the bumpstop bracket as well, you should remove it, its just 2 bolts and there is already a hole in the frame to bolt the bumpstop back into, 2wd shocks will work in the back but not up front, the mounting style is different for the front on the control arm.
front 2wd shock lower (a-arm mount)

front 4x4 shocks (or anything with torsion bars for that matter)