My new 4L65E mod
03-29-2011, 11:38 AM
#11
I still don't know anything now. Point proven by me fixing the 65 again.Yep, in beautiful downtown Wasilla.
I heard he's gonna leave the reverse stuff out, cuz it's a race-truk! 
03-29-2011, 12:55 PM
#13
Yes, 3-4 clutches. It held strong in 1, 2, or 3, but slipped about 500-800 rpm in 4th. They were starting to turn black and flake off.
Found the spring behind the pump slide very weak. My builder thinks that may have been allowing line pressure to drop at high rpm. Something about overpowering the spring? Made some changes to the valve body also, and replaced all of the frictions again. It's 100% new again.
Found the spring behind the pump slide very weak. My builder thinks that may have been allowing line pressure to drop at high rpm. Something about overpowering the spring? Made some changes to the valve body also, and replaced all of the frictions again. It's 100% new again.
03-29-2011, 02:30 PM
#14
Yes, 3-4 clutches. It held strong in 1, 2, or 3, but slipped about 500-800 rpm in 4th. They were starting to turn black and flake off.
Found the spring behind the pump slide very weak. My builder thinks that may have been allowing line pressure to drop at high rpm. Something about overpowering the spring? Made some changes to the valve body also, and replaced all of the frictions again. It's 100% new again.
Found the spring behind the pump slide very weak. My builder thinks that may have been allowing line pressure to drop at high rpm. Something about overpowering the spring? Made some changes to the valve body also, and replaced all of the frictions again. It's 100% new again.
Talk to Terry At Precision Industries, he gave me lots of insifght and tips on how to prevent 3-4 failures in 60e's. He also reccomends borg warner clutches, not altos.
See the 1-2 shift forces fluid behind the 3-4 clutch pak, a drain hole should be drilled in the accumulator piston housing so no fluid will build up behind the 3-4 pak when it shouldnt. Terry can explain this better.
03-29-2011, 02:47 PM
#16
Yep, that sounds like what mine did.
Talk to Terry At Precision Industries, he gave me lots of insifght and tips on how to prevent 3-4 failures in 60e's. He also reccomends borg warner clutches, not altos.
See the 1-2 shift forces fluid behind the 3-4 clutch pak, a drain hole should be drilled in the accumulator piston housing so no fluid will build up behind the 3-4 pak when it shouldnt. Terry can explain this better.
Talk to Terry At Precision Industries, he gave me lots of insifght and tips on how to prevent 3-4 failures in 60e's. He also reccomends borg warner clutches, not altos.
See the 1-2 shift forces fluid behind the 3-4 clutch pak, a drain hole should be drilled in the accumulator piston housing so no fluid will build up behind the 3-4 pak when it shouldnt. Terry can explain this better.
We (on a TransGo recommendation) drilled a hole in the input drum to accomplish the same thing as you drilling the accumulator piston housing. Supposed to work better because it is closer to something? We will see how things go. There were some other strategy changes made in the transmission this time. If it doesn't last, I'm going to swap to the 80E. Approaching a $9000 4L65E at this point.
03-30-2011, 07:18 AM
#19
Red Altos (3 years ago) and Alto wide band only lasted me 6 weeks on my first build. Since then it's been Raybestos blue 3-4 clutches and a carbonite band. Seems to last between 5-8 months. This build has the BW 3-4 pack, and this is the first time we've tried them.
We (on a TransGo recommendation) drilled a hole in the input drum to accomplish the same thing as you drilling the accumulator piston housing. Supposed to work better because it is closer to something? We will see how things go. There were some other strategy changes made in the transmission this time. If it doesn't last, I'm going to swap to the 80E. Approaching a $9000 4L65E at this point.
We (on a TransGo recommendation) drilled a hole in the input drum to accomplish the same thing as you drilling the accumulator piston housing. Supposed to work better because it is closer to something? We will see how things go. There were some other strategy changes made in the transmission this time. If it doesn't last, I'm going to swap to the 80E. Approaching a $9000 4L65E at this point.
Hope this Helps ya, but i hear ya on the 60e rebuilds/cost. I went thru 4 of them in about 1000 miles, All lost 3-4 gear, My First trans was a RPM LVL 5 70E, it lasted the longest but fried 3-4, so then we used Alto high heat clutches, but still lost those. I just said no more as i have too much time and money in it so im doing the 80E.
I would have like to seen if drilling that hole to drain fluid would have helped, but i had enough of getting my hopes up!
Good luck bud, keep us informed, and get ahold of us when you need info on swapping an 80e in! ( No SARCASM IMPLIED, Just thoughtful jesture) !