My Performance 4L60e being built right now
#1
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My Performance 4L60e being built right now
My 60e was heading downhill so I decided to have it not only rebuilt but beefed up with the following:
TCI Hardend INPUT SHAFT & DRUM ASSEMBLY With Support ring and machined piston
Teflon coated bushings.
Torrington Bearling kit
Hardend pump rings and spring
Beast Sunshell (replaced my current Beast)
AC DELCO 5 pinion Panets
BORG WARNER INPUT SPRAG 29 ELEMENT DUAL guage
ALL Red Eagle Clutches + Koleen steels
Reverse clutches for the new reverse clutch
Shift servos
Aluminum accumilator with no pins
Extra Wide Red Eagle band & new Reverse drum
Hardend Pump rings
No CORK GASKET but a fibre one
HD2 Shift kit
2800 Stall
and a few other things that were recomended that I dont remember.
The truck is currently being worked on and one thing that caused a major concern by the builder is that the shop in Pasadena that rebuilt it 40k miles ago was wreckless.
They did not place the fuel lines back in their bracket, THEY LEFT THE FUEL LINES SITTING ON TOP AND IN CONNTACT OF MY EXHAUST!!!! wtf
They lost 2 bolts, one on each side of the stock exhaust flange, Bolts are over torqued, they did not re connect all the harness the way it was supposed to. They just left them hanging, Rear seal is leaking and I paid to have that fixed. I wonder what else they messed up.
Updates to come...
TCI Hardend INPUT SHAFT & DRUM ASSEMBLY With Support ring and machined piston
Teflon coated bushings.
Torrington Bearling kit
Hardend pump rings and spring
Beast Sunshell (replaced my current Beast)
AC DELCO 5 pinion Panets
BORG WARNER INPUT SPRAG 29 ELEMENT DUAL guage
ALL Red Eagle Clutches + Koleen steels
Reverse clutches for the new reverse clutch
Shift servos
Aluminum accumilator with no pins
Extra Wide Red Eagle band & new Reverse drum
Hardend Pump rings
No CORK GASKET but a fibre one
HD2 Shift kit
2800 Stall
and a few other things that were recomended that I dont remember.
The truck is currently being worked on and one thing that caused a major concern by the builder is that the shop in Pasadena that rebuilt it 40k miles ago was wreckless.
They did not place the fuel lines back in their bracket, THEY LEFT THE FUEL LINES SITTING ON TOP AND IN CONNTACT OF MY EXHAUST!!!! wtf
They lost 2 bolts, one on each side of the stock exhaust flange, Bolts are over torqued, they did not re connect all the harness the way it was supposed to. They just left them hanging, Rear seal is leaking and I paid to have that fixed. I wonder what else they messed up.
Updates to come...
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nice, if you dont mind me asking, what did all those parts ands the labor cost you? PM me if you like. ill be doing this upgrade sooner or later and want to know what im lookin at price wise....
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#9
i personally would steer away from the red eagle clutches. use the factory tan clutches in everything except the 3-4 clutch pack. for the 3-4, the 8-pack high-energy or blues pretty much solved 3-4 issues (using reds) every time in my experience.
i'm pretty sure you can't use the accumulator springs from the trango kit with pinless accumulator pistons. all you really need is the stock-style aluminum pistons that use pins. they're cheap and easy.
the reason many builders won't warranty hi-po units with stock converters (even re-stalled stockers) is because the stockers are heavy in comparison to smaller units with specially tuned internals. i'm assuming you're using a GM 12" converter. that extra weight and diameter is harder on the clutches due to the extra effort needed to change shaft speeds (inertia). and the issue exacerbates itself as you put more power through it.
restalled V6 converters are ticking time-bombs behind a built V8. TCI is known for using these V6 units (or parts of them) as cores. get a good brand name converter. and if you plan to tow or use the lock-up at the track get one with a multi-disc LU clutch... smaller clutches NEED more friction area because diameter = mechanical advantage. i.e.- i'd take less friction area with a larger mean clutch diameter over more friction area on less diameter. this is also one of the reasons the 4L80 is stronger than the 4L60.
everything else looks great, pending the builder's work.
i'm pretty sure you can't use the accumulator springs from the trango kit with pinless accumulator pistons. all you really need is the stock-style aluminum pistons that use pins. they're cheap and easy.
the reason many builders won't warranty hi-po units with stock converters (even re-stalled stockers) is because the stockers are heavy in comparison to smaller units with specially tuned internals. i'm assuming you're using a GM 12" converter. that extra weight and diameter is harder on the clutches due to the extra effort needed to change shaft speeds (inertia). and the issue exacerbates itself as you put more power through it.
restalled V6 converters are ticking time-bombs behind a built V8. TCI is known for using these V6 units (or parts of them) as cores. get a good brand name converter. and if you plan to tow or use the lock-up at the track get one with a multi-disc LU clutch... smaller clutches NEED more friction area because diameter = mechanical advantage. i.e.- i'd take less friction area with a larger mean clutch diameter over more friction area on less diameter. this is also one of the reasons the 4L80 is stronger than the 4L60.
everything else looks great, pending the builder's work.
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I'll be using factory tans + blue plate special 3-4's on my next build.
i'm pretty sure you can't use the accumulator springs from the trango kit with pinless accumulator pistons. all you really need is the stock-style aluminum pistons that use pins. they're cheap and easy.
I am curious how the stock one restalled to 2800 will be in terms of looseness. My 2400 is a restalled stock one, and its pretty good, i figure if it was higher it would be really lose. Assuming you have one already, but if not definitely get a cooler. Mine gets pretty hot in stop go traffic.
Last edited by stevenc; 05-07-2010 at 09:12 AM.