I have some issues to sort out on my 99 silverado.

First, for the last THREE years I have had a bad rear suspension set up.

I had a shop install a 4" hanger and shackle kit from Summit and apparently everything was off. Pinion angle, leap travel and etc.

I did not notice any of this till I had my truck bottom out over a speed bump and notice it seem to hit the fram...YEP...bump stomps had gotten torn off and it cracked my frame...BOY was I hot!!!!

I repaired my frame by plating it.

Now I need to sort through my suspenion.

I run Lakewood traction bars on this truck. They were missed install since the rest of the deal was screwed up.

So, what I need help in determine is the following.

Caltracs or Comp Engerineering are out due to those not being able to be used with towing. I tow my chevelle with this truck and and lawn equipment every so often.

My tire and and wheel combo is the Silverado SS 20" wheel with Goodyear GTII's that are 275 45 20's.

I would like to put the traction bars back on and not lose towing ability.

It seems there is so much confusion on on hanger and shackle kits and what will work with traction bars, pinion angle and etc.

Ground Force, Bell Tech, McGaughy's, Western Chassis, DJM and etc all seem to have someone say something different about them.

I do think that DJM FRONT suspenion works the best for lowered trucks...stock spring and lowering control arms....very nice!!

However, there rear hangers cant be used with traction bars because the shackle opens up and not down.....the snubber cant get to the spring!!!

Also It needs to allow me to tow 5000 lbs....have no problem installing air bags if that is need.

Any suggestions would be helpful!

 

75 views and nothing??

 

Try being more patient. This is a free web forum and not every one is on line all day every day to help with your problems.

In regards to your issue have you had the frame checked for straightness???

If it wasn't straight to begin with and you welded on it, It maybe even further out from heat distortion.

With out being able to see what's going on it's hard to say for sure. I would think a 4 inch drop would need a C-notch kit in order to keep from bottoming out and ripping of the bump stop. Especially with towing or hauling.

I would make sure the frame is straight first and then replace any thing else in the lowering kit that is not working properly or damaged.

 

Yes, I should be more patient. Just a little upset with what all led to this I guess.

No, I have not had it checked for straightness. The frame I think is straight. Never been in a wreck.

I did not think about that. I just got some plate and welded it up.

Maybe I should go and make a appointment at the frame shop.

I was thinking a C notch was mainly for 6 inch drops, but seeing that Im towing, that does make good sense.

Maybe I will check into that!

Meanwhile, here are some pics.

 

I will get the truck up on jack stands and post more pics.

 

Anyone else?

 

What part number traction bars are you running?

 

Thanks for the pictures. I would say you need a C notch for towing. It looks like if you loaded it down it would hit the frame if you went over a bump, which it was obviously doing cause it tore the bump stop and cracked the frame.

My concern with the frame is because of the damage that was caused. Wouldn't hurt to have it checked out and to make sure they installed the drop kit correctly. If they drilled the holes wrong and its off on one side that will cause a problem as well.

 

Here it is from the Lakewood site.

Lakewood brand | Part #: 21710

From the JEGS site.

Lakewood 21710 Lakewood Leaf Spring Traction Bars

 

I agree.

It does currently hit the frame when towing and hit any kind of significant bump. It appears to flatten the springs out pretty good when loaded with say a mower on the trailer or my chevelle.

Would moving the springs to underneath the axle be wiser?