Need help with 1999 Silverado rear suspension
09-30-2012, 01:15 PM
#21
if you have access to a welder why not the super notch? to me it looks a lot stronger then the McGaughy's notch
AVS*::*Air Suspension*::*Notches & Bridge Kits*::*NOTCHES*::*Super C Notch 88-98 and 99-04 GM full size- mount under floor no cutting
AVS*::*Air Suspension*::*Notches & Bridge Kits*::*NOTCHES*::*Super C Notch 88-98 and 99-04 GM full size- mount under floor no cutting
I'm going to take a closer look at the link.
Here is the one I found from kmwperformance.com
8-Piece Super Step Notch
09-30-2012, 04:23 PM
#23
if you have access to a welder why not the super notch? to me it looks a lot stronger then the McGaughy's notch
AVS*::*Air Suspension*::*Notches & Bridge Kits*::*NOTCHES*::*Super C Notch 88-98 and 99-04 GM full size- mount under floor no cutting
AVS*::*Air Suspension*::*Notches & Bridge Kits*::*NOTCHES*::*Super C Notch 88-98 and 99-04 GM full size- mount under floor no cutting
I believe this is what you want to run DAH32
It tucks in side the existing frame rail and is welded in. plus it has the tube to go along the top for added strength.
The other kit you listed is all piece's that have to be welded together. The kit above goes in place with the existing framerail for a cleaner look.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 09-30-2012 at 04:31 PM.
09-30-2012, 04:28 PM
#24
Would this elimnate the need for a C notch?
Vehicle Suspension Kits - Timbren Suspension Enhancement Systems
Vehicle Suspension Kits - Timbren Suspension Enhancement Systems
09-30-2012, 07:12 PM
#25
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at 4" I with out a doubt needed a notch, there was no arguing or any doubt about it...take some advice from someone who didn't listen in the beginning, BUY A NOTCH, AND RUN HELPERS.
Go one more inch lower and buy the MCG notch and MCG helpers, they all bolt up. Of course I am running a flip kit.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...8/#post4999491
Go one more inch lower and buy the MCG notch and MCG helpers, they all bolt up. Of course I am running a flip kit.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...8/#post4999491
09-30-2012, 08:59 PM
#26
at 4" I with out a doubt needed a notch, there was no arguing or any doubt about it...take some advice from someone who didn't listen in the beginning, BUY A NOTCH, AND RUN HELPERS.
Go one more inch lower and buy the MCG notch and MCG helpers, they all bolt up. Of course I am running a flip kit.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...8/#post4999491
Go one more inch lower and buy the MCG notch and MCG helpers, they all bolt up. Of course I am running a flip kit.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...8/#post4999491
Helpers? You mean the air bags right?
10-07-2012, 07:17 AM
#27
I got the super notch. Its on the way.
I got a new hanger and shackle kit too. I installed the Belltech kit as it works with traction bars or Caltracs.
Im also sorting out some pinion angle issues.
My tranny is 5*. My tranny is not a stock location. We had to fab up a small piece of steel to raise the mount area. I dont remember how high is the mount is, but a 1.5" or 2" piece of steel is about right it seems.
The angle of the driveshaft at the rearend yoke is 0*.
Mine rearend is nose up. I measured it with the angle finder and its -8*.
In my thinking, it would seem we have a -3 pinion angle. Not enough for a leaf spring. It seems the u joint and driveshaft arch under WOT. In a perfect world the driveshaft would be a 0* on WOT runs.
Should we shove a 3* shim in from the rear and get a angle of -11*?
This would give us -6 of pinion angle and seem to give us 0* at WOT?
I got a new hanger and shackle kit too. I installed the Belltech kit as it works with traction bars or Caltracs.
Im also sorting out some pinion angle issues.
My tranny is 5*. My tranny is not a stock location. We had to fab up a small piece of steel to raise the mount area. I dont remember how high is the mount is, but a 1.5" or 2" piece of steel is about right it seems.
The angle of the driveshaft at the rearend yoke is 0*.
Mine rearend is nose up. I measured it with the angle finder and its -8*.
In my thinking, it would seem we have a -3 pinion angle. Not enough for a leaf spring. It seems the u joint and driveshaft arch under WOT. In a perfect world the driveshaft would be a 0* on WOT runs.
Should we shove a 3* shim in from the rear and get a angle of -11*?
This would give us -6 of pinion angle and seem to give us 0* at WOT?
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