murderedSS

Please help serious answers only please I don't wanna be doing this again don't mind spending money on a good part that's gonna last.

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado SS d1 Procharger with a 3 inch pulley making 18 pounds of boost fast intake 90mm tb 228/228 600/600 112 Lsa cam forged pistons and rods with a balanced crank. Heads are 317 with a comp angle valve job port and polished with a truinon upgrade ls7 lifters 7.4 hardened push rods 1 7/8s American racing headers not sure what kind of numbers I'm gonna be pushing but I know my 65 didn't like that power!

So now this winter I'm dropping a rossler 4l80 terminator 3 in my truck and I am up in the air on a converter not sure what brand what size or anything a lot of ppl have recommended patc quadra disk or precision but no one can give me a good answer on stall speed 2800 3200 or what??

I'm gonna be driving the truck a lot it's not gonna be a garage queen of I wanna get in it and go to work or drive it to the mall I want to able to and also if I wanna pull my boat to the lake I wanna be able to do that also. I have 305/55/22s on my truck.

I think that's about everything hopefully I can get some good recommendations on a conveyer that's gonna last me

murderedSS

Nobody has an answer? Well

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

For something like that, I'd give circle D a call. If you want to murder turbocharged trucks it'll need to be pretty ****** loose. Then you can have him put the 3 disk clutch/billet front on it for cruising.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Trouble is the towing requirement...its going to act much looser when you have a couple thousand more pounds behind it. If you didn't tow I would say something in the 3000-3400 range, but since you do maybe a 2800-3000. Yank, circle d, PTC, PI...they could probably all build you something that will work and all be about the same cost and performance wise.

Make sure you have a big trans cooler.

DrX

iTrader: (7)

^^this
I agree it will be a compromise between max performance(the Procharger will like a higher stall speed) and your daily driver requirements for less slip. So maybe not higher than 3000 stall speed. Definitely want something with a multi-disk lockup clutch. Haven't tried Circle D yet, but have had best results with PIs so far. Also have a beast of a converter from TCSperformance dot com that was supplied by Jake with one of his 80Es.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Didn't know you towed with it. Expect it to be a dog with a converter that will allow towing.

murderedSS

Ok thanks a lot I guess I will be giving someone a call I may just have barrow a truck if I wanna tie my boat

Vortec350ss

iTrader: (20)

Ehhhh... We cut a 1.62 with a yand PT2800 multi disc. For as hard as you're working that blower it'll come in hard. Go for the yank PT series and somewhere in the ball park of 3000 RPM. We also only had a 3.2 pulley... Only lol.

The 2800 could tow, and you will flash it to 3500 or so when you really hop on it.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

There's a few habits you'll want to develop towing with a high-stall converter.
- Stay conscientious about holding a steady throttle. Every time you lift of the gas the PCM will unlock the converter, then as soon as you're back into throttle it will relock eventually. This constant unlocking and locking is hard on the lockup clutch because under a tow load it's going to be overcoming a larger RPM delta every time it locks up again. (The converter's higher stall speed allows much more RPM difference at low RPM given a specific input torque) Result = more heat and more clutch wear.
- Try not to give enough throttle in grades and passing to invoke a downshift to second. A high-stall converter pulling hard in second gear is unlocked and will heat up RAPIDLY. By the time you notice the coolant temp rising the fluid's likely already been overheated.
- Avoid any high throttle and torque situations in both first and second gear. Here again the converter is unlocked and that RPM difference between the pump (engine rpm) and turbine (input shaft rpm) translates to fluid friction and heat.

Basically, when towing with a performance converter the lockup clutch is what you've got to depend on. When engaged it makes the converter a simple mechanical 1:1 efficient link. When the converter is unlocked just take it easy to avoid overheating and wasted economy.