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New gears, whine on deceleration only???

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Old 03-08-2010 | 11:11 AM
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ig109's Avatar
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Default New gears, whine on deceleration only???

Ok.. Just swapped from 3.23 to 3.73 gears, used new in box Richmond gears.. Did proper setup (took a while, im a bit rusty) But i got a good contact patch and the backlash was right at .004 when i checked it.. I took it easy on the truck for the first 30 miles or so.. just down the road and back, then drove it 150 ish miles really easy at varrying highway speeds, took it to get tuned, the guy that tuned it did thrash on it pretty hard when we drove the truck.. When i started leaving his place i accidentally pulled out in front of a guy and hit it hard off the lot to get out of his way, every since then it has had a whine on decell.. noticeable barely at higher speeds, not noticable at all below 30, and only when the lube is hot.. goes away when its cold.. Im going to be changing the lube around wednesday, anyone know what could cause this?? Im going to clean the housing and run a patch when i change the lube, and check by B/L??

Anyone with any insight??

Thanks
Old 03-08-2010 | 12:01 PM
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Change the oil and double check the lash. I've heard of Richmonds whining when set up perfect.
Old 03-08-2010 | 12:09 PM
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Did you clean off the yellow paint after you did the pattern check?
Old 03-08-2010 | 12:47 PM
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150 miles probably wasn't enough break in.
Old 03-08-2010 | 01:44 PM
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Ive seen a few sets of richmonds whine on decel.. .. I have 6.00 richmonds in my dirt track car and it seen 4-5 mud laps and then I went all out with them.. they've been in there since 2005 and no problems..
Old 03-08-2010 | 05:17 PM
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I've known Richmonds to be noisy in general...
Old 03-08-2010 | 06:15 PM
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Richmonds are good gears but they are usually loud unless you have set up many rearends you are probably going to hear noise. The back lash should be stamped on the gear or engraved what they want its usually about 8-9k 4 is probably to tight unless that is what it called for. Also the pinion depth is key. Hint if going to a lower gear say a 3.73 to a 4.56 you will need to add shims because the pinion gear gets smaller the lower the gear (numericaly higher) the gear is and by adding say 3-6k to the shim under the pinion bearing you make up for this but this is just a starting point. You are probably going to have to pull it down and redo it to get it perfect or you will have noise. Pull the carrier first and check pinion depth if its within limits look for your backlash you may have to get it perfect with their specs. to get the noise out. I prefer yukon gears because of their quietness. Hope this helps

also did you get the crush sleeve smashed all the way check for play in the yoke.
Old 03-09-2010 | 08:04 AM
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The B/L setting on the card with the Yukon setup kit i bought was .003-.006. I believe the Richmonds called for 8-10.. Perhaps that is the issue.. I know the general deal is that you add for a numerically higher ratio but i ended up having to subtract about .010 from mine, the inner pinion bearing was different from the kit to my factory bearing and i assumed that would make a difference.. I do not have a pinion depth install tool.. I am going by contact patch to determine.. The patch was picture perfect.. I did clean everything when i did final assembly.. I will double check the B/L and the contact patch and let everyone know whats up.. I may try opening up the B/L setting..

Thanks
Old 03-09-2010 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ig109
The B/L setting on the card with the Yukon setup kit i bought was .003-.006. I believe the Richmonds called for 8-10.. Perhaps that is the issue.. I know the general deal is that you add for a numerically higher ratio but i ended up having to subtract about .010 from mine, the inner pinion bearing was different from the kit to my factory bearing and i assumed that would make a difference.. I do not have a pinion depth install tool.. I am going by contact patch to determine.. The patch was picture perfect.. I did clean everything when i did final assembly.. I will double check the B/L and the contact patch and let everyone know whats up.. I may try opening up the B/L setting..

Thanks
To check pinion depth with no tool you can remove carrier and place a straight edge from top of the carrier strap holes in the housing to the bottom of the other or across from top to bottom. The straight edge has to be perfect like a pice of straight flat bar. take a dial indicator set to 0 place it aginst the bar with the back towards the pinion and use the part that runs out the back of the dial indicator to reach the pinion see measurement on indicator and then subtract the thickness of the straight edge. Im pretty sure that the depth is your problem hope this helps
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