1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

SSBC makes some damn good brakes. I will be going with the Baer Eradispeed set when I get my 18inch rims eventually they are last on my list of mods(not a very big bling bling kind of guy). On the tranny it all depends on how far you are going to go with the mods. I spent almost 2 grand in just hard parts for my tranny that’s not including paying the guy to build it or the money I paid a guy to borrow his lift, or the cost of the stall.
The stuff below is what I send everyone that asks me about what to do to beef up their transmission this gives you and idea of what all is involved. The prices are estimated for each item. Front and rear 5 pinion run about 450.

$40 - 29 element sprag
$50 - Alto Forward & Low/Rev clutches
$20 - Alto 2-4 Band
$65 - Alto 3-4 clutch pack, full thickness clutch and steels
$60 - Billet OD servo
$40 - Input Drum reinforcement kit
$10 - Aluminum accumulator pistons
$35 - Beast reaction shell
$15 - TransGo plate
$115 - HD reaction carrier shaft
$25 - High RPM 3-4 spring pack
$7 - Hardened Pump rings
$130 - all new solenoids and harness (except EPC dont need as you go vac)
$15 - Sonnax check valve

$170-420 - hardened or billet output shaft
$90 - Vac modulated Shifts


This is a list of what you would need pretty much. Get a transgo hd-2 shift kit vette servo and a billet od servo if you plan WOT 4th gear shifts. I got a hardened shaft and it seems to be taking the torture of offroading with 33's. Oh and a big azz tranny cooler heat is the main enemy. If you really dont want to have anything to worry about get the 5 pinion planetaries get factory gm ones not aftermarket I know it sounds weird but the factory ones are powdered metal and they are much stronger than aftermarket. My tranny cooler is a 40,000 gcvw and it keeps it nice and cool(150*). Vac shift stuff is if you want to do away with the EPC solenoids which controls line pressure(ie shift firmness) you replace it with a ford C4 unit me personnally I wouldnt do this cause you have to run a vacuum line and all that bs. Let me know if you have any questions. The prices are approximate. I got my stuff from 4l60-e.com.

I cant stress enough that keeping the transmission cool is the number one priority. Now you don’t want it too cool though. The operating temp as specified by gm is 150 to 220. With my stall, heavy *** truck, and 100* weather my trans stays at about 150-160*.
Heres a link to my cooler http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=4
Heres a pic of my cooler installed to give you an idea of just how big it is

You don’t need a new core or anything just get your current one rebuilt. If you are going to have less than 500hp at the crank then I would do clutches, shift kit, servos, transgo separator plate, pinless accumulator piston, beast sun gear shell, and the sprag unit borg-warner makes a good one. If you really don’t want toe ever worry about transmission problems then go ahead and add the 5 pinion planets, and the rest of the stuff. Like I said before I did all this stuff to my tranny and I feel it will last a good while behind the 408. When you do the cam swap makes sure you get new valve guide seals they cost like 25 bucks for the whole set and are cheap insurance and you might as well do it while you have the springs off. While you have the transmission out I would go ahead and put a stall in it. I have a TCI 3000 that is being totally rebuilt by TCI right now that I will be selling if you are interested. A tc will make the biggest difference in off the line acceleration. In case you don’t know how a stall works if the stall speed is 3000 then when you punch it off the line instead of it having to wind up to the 3000 you leave the at 3000 and of course you have more hp at 3000 rpms than you do at 1800 so you get a lot better jump. It cut my 60ft times by 3-4 tenths I went from a 2.45 down to a 2.1-2.15 then with the nitrous I was turning 1.9 60ft times all the time in my heavy *** truck. I think that just about covers everything. Any more ?’s