You might be ok. Just make sure you have enough in and out play for the driveshaft so nothing binds when the suspension compresses.

My NBS def needed a modded shaft. The old one won't fit at all.

 

Destroyed my factory 4wd shaft. Went back and managed to find 3 pieces of it.

 

How fast were you going?

 

Somewhere north of 100. Gauge pod on the steering column blocks speedo above 100.

 

Wondering if my driveshaft isnt the causenof my vibration ive got going on....... Or if its the worn out mickey thompsons i have on it....

 

Well if I was a betting man I'd say the latter. But if I actually laid money down it would end up being the driveshaft. Lol

 

What speed you feel it?

Mine vibrates from 50-65mph, you know that important highway speed.

 

I start feeling mine at about 35 or so.... I have a new bfg atko i am about to out on it, need get with one of the writers at my part time job to find me a couple more, bfg discontinued the load range d ko and as far as i can tell arent making the ko2 in lrd and i really dont want e load range tires..... But i get a hefty discount on certain tires at my part time job, so.....

 

Not even going to start on the wheel hop/axle wrap i have.....

 

From what Ive seen mph that critical speed is reached (affected by different factors) seems to be more toward the 125 range.

Also, I would NOT select a steel shaft in this long of an application. One easy way to lower critical speed is to increase mass.

From what I've seen 2wd come with aluminum (longer) shafts and 4wd/awd come with steel shorter shafts. So yeah it does matter.

6" dad gum Stock shaft is approx .06 thick. Most aftermarket aluminum shafts are around double that at .125.

Smart man

You'd get further in life if you knew when to shut your pie hole and listen.