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Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!

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Old 10-10-2007, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1TRUESS
What a pain in the ***! Glad you found some bolts!
You aint kidding bro! I have been staring at my new Manual sitting in the shed and day dreaming. Hell, I attached the shifter last night and was pretending I was banging gears. LoL

I am ssssoooooo excited to get this swap done, I have ALWAYS wanted a manual in my truck... Almost all my other vehicles have been manuals.
Old 10-18-2007, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboGibbs
The 1350/1310's etc.....are Dana joints from what I understand. GM has their own deminsions. It isn't rocket science. There is a bastard joint for just about every combination. If you don't know what a bastard joint is, that is a conversion joint here in the south.
How does a 3r/1350 u-joint sound? That is what the drivetrain shop gave me. The 3r (inner lock) for the stock GM drive shaft and the 1350 (outer lock) for the T-56 viper yoke.

Not installed yet, but will let you know if it is doesn't work.
Old 10-18-2007, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by IslandTahoe
How does a 3r/1350 u-joint sound? That is what the drivetrain shop gave me. The 3r (inner lock) for the stock GM drive shaft and the 1350 (outer lock) for the T-56 viper yoke.

Not installed yet, but will let you know if it is doesn't work.
Sounds about right.
Old 11-02-2007, 11:38 PM
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Default You won't believe it!

I finally finished my shifter boot!

Ended up with plan 1 since it was more simple and I finally figured out how I was going to do it.

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I used steel banding like used in shipping on palets.
-I bent the banding to the shape of the inside of the cup holder compartment.
-Using clamps held it in place as I worked it.
-I began drilling 1/8" holes and installing 1/8" sheet metal screws one at a time.
-After I get all the screws in I take it back apart and install the boot with the screws.
-Once all the srews are in I removed them one at a time and put in rivets since the screw head would be too thick and in the way for the cupholder assembly to snap back in.
Old 11-03-2007, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboGibbs
I finally finished my shifter boot!

Ended up with plan 1 since it was more simple and I finally figured out how I was going to do it.










I used steel banding like used in shipping on palets.
-I bent the banding to the shape of the inside of the cup holder compartment.
-Using clamps held it in place as I worked it.
-I began drilling 1/8" holes and installing 1/8" sheet metal screws one at a time.
-After I get all the screws in I take it back apart and install the boot with the screws.
-Once all the srews are in I removed them one at a time and put in rivets since the screw head would be too thick and in the way for the cupholder assembly to snap back in.
Can you send me one? How Long? How Much?
Old 11-03-2007, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 04GIBBS
Can you send me one? How Long? How Much?
The shifter boot is an Italian leather piece custom made from some internet company out of Poland. It was $100 by its self.
It took me a year or more to get off my *** and do it so I dunno. PM me if you are really interested.

I wish there was a better way of doing it but using the factory cup holder piece you have to fill in the gaps and that means you have to follow the rim and then just deal with the cupholder side. If I was to do it again i'd custom mix some pain to color match the filler plastic piece on the passenger side.
Old 11-03-2007, 07:14 PM
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That looks great dude! If I had a console I would have done something like that but, since I don't and I used a truck transmission I went for the full on Truck style Shifter... It looks big and akward but, it actualy drives really great!!!

The whole shifter set up cost about $160...

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Old 11-03-2007, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord Aries
That looks great dude! If I had a console I would have done something like that but, since I don't and I used a truck transmission I went for the full on Truck style Shifter... It looks big and akward but, it actualy drives really great!!!

The whole shifter set up cost about $160...

I like yours. Good way to do the truck shifter location. The T56 is 8-12" further back. It comes up about where your cupholders are. I used to have the same center seat as you have. I was wanting to keep mine but the seat was just going to be in the way with a long shifter. Mine is a RCSB and Reg cabs don't come with the console like I have, only EC's and Tahoes.
Old 11-06-2007, 05:41 AM
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very helpful
Old 11-13-2007, 07:15 PM
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So I've read thru this whole thread, and there isn't much talk about doing a T56 in a Truck thats already got the 5spd. I currently would like to upgrade to the T56.. but now that i have read through this i have a few concerns, maybe someone can clear them up.. If i was to install a t56 into my already 5spd truck,Would it mean relocating the whole where the shifter comes thru? ? Does anybody know of a company that may have made something to keep it coming thru the stock location? I too have the center console with the fold down seat like turbogibbs, Does anybody know if the T56 will fit leaving the Fold down seat in? And then theres my question about mating the tranny to the engine.. should it just bolt up or did i miss something when reading through this thread? Thanks For your guy's help in Advance... Maybe there's another tranny out there that i could consider? If you know of one, let me knkow

P.S. What kind of clutch should i consider buying too, if i get a T56 (i have considered upgrading my current tranny's clutch, but all the guys i talk to say its not worth it, more hassle free to just buy a T56) The motor is currently Maxing my clutch out on the nv3500 At 300hp... The shop owner believes my truck has around 315 hp and similiar torque numbers... I don't think the new tranny will ever see more than 500hp...


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