Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!
01-23-2009, 10:08 AM
#622
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After reading through...i understand that the hydraulic line from the 04' factory five speed truck works with the swap with no modifications needed. I have an 02' factory five speed truck..Does anybody know if my line and the 04 line the same!!??
01-23-2009, 12:42 PM
#623
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Yes! the line is the same for those years. To use your existing clutch line with the T56 and F-body slave cylinder, just knock the roll pin out of the line of the F-body slave and replace with your line, replace roll pin. Very simple.
I would also like to note that my A4 to T56 swap has over 7,000 miles of use now, without 1 single issue. Lovin' it!
I would also like to note that my A4 to T56 swap has over 7,000 miles of use now, without 1 single issue. Lovin' it!
Last edited by Rafedial; 01-23-2009 at 12:49 PM.
01-29-2009, 12:46 PM
#624
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Six Speed Swap Notes
I just finished swapping an MM6 TREMEC from an 01 Camaro into my 02 Silverado RCSWB, which was formerly equipped with an NV3500 5-speed.
I want to apologize in advance if any of this stuff is redundant, but I don't recall seeing these details in the thread.
The final driveshaft length for an RCSWB with a Camaro/Firebird T56 is 59 1/2". You could probably go 59 5/8" if you wanted to.
The NV3500 truck crossmember lines up with all mounts on the frame and transmission, but is about 1 1/2" too high and you will have your u-joint to driveshaft angles FUBAR'd if you use it. The one I used came out of an 02-03 truck and was square instead of having a hump. I inverted a piece of channel to adapt it to the trans at the right height. Two beads of weld and you're done. Another bonus of using the square crossmember is the opening up of some additional space for your exhaust system.
I used a Keisler front mount shifter which allowed the used of the stock boot and shifter in (almost) the stock location. I fabbed an adapter to forward mount the truck handle to the Keisler shifter stub. The floor will still have to be trimmed but it will all be under the boot. You can reuse the stock insulator that mounts around the shifter housing.
Speedometer calibration and cruise control woes are eliminated by using a JTR reluctor on the rear end yoke with the sensor out of the NV3500. They are going to be making a 40 tooth reluctor to replace the 17 tooth one in the trans at sometime in the future.
As mentioned in the thread, a Camaro slave was used, along with the truck line. It was bled during installation by allowing the fluid to drain through the bleeder and then closing the bleeder and compressing the bearing, which forces any air back up the line. Two compressions and you're done.
A word about clutch engagement....the flywheel for the NV3500 equipped engines is offset about 10 mm towards the transmission as compared to the flywheel from a F or Y-body car. Although you could use a the pressure plate clutch and disc from the cars with the truck flywheel, there is some overlap (around 1/8") of the car disc on the flywheel side of the disc, so it's better to use the matching flywheel from the car. This will leave you with your pedal engagement a bit closer to the floor. In order to correctly restore the engagement to approximately it's original location, you can use a spacer behind the clutch slave. This spacer cannot be thicker than the flywheel offset mentioned above. Anywhere from 5 mm to 10 mm is fine and even the 5 mm will make a noticable difference. Both TPIS and Katech make spacers for the CTS-V which will work, although the Katech spacer is much thicker and must be shortened before it can be used. The TPIS spacer is fine as is. There are some shims available from GM for the CTS-V that can also be used, although they have to be stacked to get the desired thickness.
One other thing, an 03 Mustang leather 6-speed **** comes close to the GM Graphite color and can be easily adapted the the Chevy shifter. I hated to use a Ford
part, but it worked and I guess that's all that matters.
I also have a two piece Graphite console that I will be listing in the classifieds or on eBay in the near future.
I want to apologize in advance if any of this stuff is redundant, but I don't recall seeing these details in the thread.
The final driveshaft length for an RCSWB with a Camaro/Firebird T56 is 59 1/2". You could probably go 59 5/8" if you wanted to.
The NV3500 truck crossmember lines up with all mounts on the frame and transmission, but is about 1 1/2" too high and you will have your u-joint to driveshaft angles FUBAR'd if you use it. The one I used came out of an 02-03 truck and was square instead of having a hump. I inverted a piece of channel to adapt it to the trans at the right height. Two beads of weld and you're done. Another bonus of using the square crossmember is the opening up of some additional space for your exhaust system.
I used a Keisler front mount shifter which allowed the used of the stock boot and shifter in (almost) the stock location. I fabbed an adapter to forward mount the truck handle to the Keisler shifter stub. The floor will still have to be trimmed but it will all be under the boot. You can reuse the stock insulator that mounts around the shifter housing.
Speedometer calibration and cruise control woes are eliminated by using a JTR reluctor on the rear end yoke with the sensor out of the NV3500. They are going to be making a 40 tooth reluctor to replace the 17 tooth one in the trans at sometime in the future.
As mentioned in the thread, a Camaro slave was used, along with the truck line. It was bled during installation by allowing the fluid to drain through the bleeder and then closing the bleeder and compressing the bearing, which forces any air back up the line. Two compressions and you're done.
A word about clutch engagement....the flywheel for the NV3500 equipped engines is offset about 10 mm towards the transmission as compared to the flywheel from a F or Y-body car. Although you could use a the pressure plate clutch and disc from the cars with the truck flywheel, there is some overlap (around 1/8") of the car disc on the flywheel side of the disc, so it's better to use the matching flywheel from the car. This will leave you with your pedal engagement a bit closer to the floor. In order to correctly restore the engagement to approximately it's original location, you can use a spacer behind the clutch slave. This spacer cannot be thicker than the flywheel offset mentioned above. Anywhere from 5 mm to 10 mm is fine and even the 5 mm will make a noticable difference. Both TPIS and Katech make spacers for the CTS-V which will work, although the Katech spacer is much thicker and must be shortened before it can be used. The TPIS spacer is fine as is. There are some shims available from GM for the CTS-V that can also be used, although they have to be stacked to get the desired thickness.
One other thing, an 03 Mustang leather 6-speed **** comes close to the GM Graphite color and can be easily adapted the the Chevy shifter. I hated to use a Ford
part, but it worked and I guess that's all that matters.I also have a two piece Graphite console that I will be listing in the classifieds or on eBay in the near future.
Last edited by scatillac; 03-03-2009 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Added info.
01-30-2009, 08:04 AM
#625
Thanks I appreciate it. Yeah I was just under my truck saying that heavy blocky crossmember needs to go. Since the collectors for the headers I am using for my big block exit pretty much right in front of it.
02-15-2009, 10:17 PM
#627
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I just finished swapping an MM6 TREMEC form an 01 Camaro into my 02 Silverado RCSWB, which was formerly equipped with an NV3500 5-speed.
I want to apologize in advance if any of this stuff is redundant, but I don't recall seeing these details in the thread.
The final driveshaft length for an RCSWB is 59 1/2". You could probably go 59 5/8" if you wanted to.
The NV3500 truck crossmember lines up with all mounts on the frame and transmission, but is about 1 1/2" too high and you will have your u-joint to driveshaft angles FUBAR'd if you use it. The one I used came out of an 02-03 truck and was square instead of having a hump. I inverted a piece of channel to adapt it to the trans at the right height. Two beads of weld and you're done. Another bonus of using the square crossmember is the opening up of some additional space for your exhaust system. I will admit fault where it is due. I believe my choice on the "hump" 03-newer crossmember is wrong. My crossmember is choice is not the correct one. You are right. It is too high of a location point. No matter how high I placed my carrier bearing support, the pinion angle was still not right and i have a slight vibration at certain speeds, but no failures yet. I recommend his method of using the older "square 02-03" crossmember plus some channel steel welded is the right idea. For anyone doing the swap, make note of this.
I used a Keisler front mount shifter which allowed the used of the stock boot and shifter in (almost) the stock location. I fabbed an adapter to forward mount the truck handle to the Keisler shifter stub. The floor will still have to be trimmed but it will all be under the boot. You can reused the stock insulator that mounts around the shifter housing. For anyone using a factory 5-speed truck, this is a great idea. it will keep you shifter at the right location. But for someone with a center console or factory automatic tran truck, I would suggest using the F-body shifter. Fits perfect.
Speedometer calibration and cruise control woes are eliminated by using a JTR reluctor on the rear end yoke with the sensor out of the NV3500. They are going to be making a 40 tooth reluctor to replace the 17 tooth one in the trans at sometime in the future.
As mentioned in the thread, a Camaro slave was used, along with the truck line. It was bled during installation by allowing the fluid to drain through the bleeder and then closing the bleeder and compressing the bearing, which forces any air back up the line. Two compressions and you're done. Easy huh?
A word about clutch engagement....the flywheel for the NV3500 equipped engines is offset about 10 mm towards the transmission as compared to the flywheel from a F or Y-body car. Although you could use a the pressure plate clutch and disc from the cars with the truck flywheel, there is some overlap (around 1/8") of the car disc on the flywheel side of the disc, so it's better to use the matching flywheel from the car. This will leave you with your pedal engagement a bit closer to the floor. In order to correctly restore the engagement to approximately it's original location, you can use a spacer behind the clutch slave. This spacer cannot be thicker than the flywheel offset mentioned above. Anywhere from 5 mm to 10 mm is fine and even the 5 mm will make a noticable difference. Both TPIS and Katech make spacers for the CTS-V which will work, although the Katech spacer is much thicker and must be shortened before it can be used. The TPIS spacer is fine as is. There are some shims available from GM for the CTS-V that can also be used, although they have to be stacked to get the desired thickness. Exactly right!!!!. I have had clutch engagement problems since the begining. I haven't had any failures or problems. But, the shifts are not exaclty smooth into gear. I deduced that the issue will be resolved by a spacer between the slave and the trans like you stated. Again, like you said, the TPiS would be the best choice. I have not experienced premature clutch failure, excessive synchro wear, or any other problems. But you have it right on. All of these problems I have with my T56 swap will be addressed soon.
One other thing, an 03 Mustang leather 6-speed **** comes close to the GM Graphite color and can be easily adapted the the Chevy shifter. I hated to use a Ford part, but it worked and I guess that's all that matters. Nice!!!
I also have a two piece Graphite console that I will be listing in the classifieds or on eBay in the near future.
I want to apologize in advance if any of this stuff is redundant, but I don't recall seeing these details in the thread.
The final driveshaft length for an RCSWB is 59 1/2". You could probably go 59 5/8" if you wanted to.
The NV3500 truck crossmember lines up with all mounts on the frame and transmission, but is about 1 1/2" too high and you will have your u-joint to driveshaft angles FUBAR'd if you use it. The one I used came out of an 02-03 truck and was square instead of having a hump. I inverted a piece of channel to adapt it to the trans at the right height. Two beads of weld and you're done. Another bonus of using the square crossmember is the opening up of some additional space for your exhaust system. I will admit fault where it is due. I believe my choice on the "hump" 03-newer crossmember is wrong. My crossmember is choice is not the correct one. You are right. It is too high of a location point. No matter how high I placed my carrier bearing support, the pinion angle was still not right and i have a slight vibration at certain speeds, but no failures yet. I recommend his method of using the older "square 02-03" crossmember plus some channel steel welded is the right idea. For anyone doing the swap, make note of this.
I used a Keisler front mount shifter which allowed the used of the stock boot and shifter in (almost) the stock location. I fabbed an adapter to forward mount the truck handle to the Keisler shifter stub. The floor will still have to be trimmed but it will all be under the boot. You can reused the stock insulator that mounts around the shifter housing. For anyone using a factory 5-speed truck, this is a great idea. it will keep you shifter at the right location. But for someone with a center console or factory automatic tran truck, I would suggest using the F-body shifter. Fits perfect.
Speedometer calibration and cruise control woes are eliminated by using a JTR reluctor on the rear end yoke with the sensor out of the NV3500. They are going to be making a 40 tooth reluctor to replace the 17 tooth one in the trans at sometime in the future.
As mentioned in the thread, a Camaro slave was used, along with the truck line. It was bled during installation by allowing the fluid to drain through the bleeder and then closing the bleeder and compressing the bearing, which forces any air back up the line. Two compressions and you're done.
Easy huh?A word about clutch engagement....the flywheel for the NV3500 equipped engines is offset about 10 mm towards the transmission as compared to the flywheel from a F or Y-body car. Although you could use a the pressure plate clutch and disc from the cars with the truck flywheel, there is some overlap (around 1/8") of the car disc on the flywheel side of the disc, so it's better to use the matching flywheel from the car. This will leave you with your pedal engagement a bit closer to the floor. In order to correctly restore the engagement to approximately it's original location, you can use a spacer behind the clutch slave. This spacer cannot be thicker than the flywheel offset mentioned above. Anywhere from 5 mm to 10 mm is fine and even the 5 mm will make a noticable difference. Both TPIS and Katech make spacers for the CTS-V which will work, although the Katech spacer is much thicker and must be shortened before it can be used. The TPIS spacer is fine as is. There are some shims available from GM for the CTS-V that can also be used, although they have to be stacked to get the desired thickness. Exactly right!!!!. I have had clutch engagement problems since the begining. I haven't had any failures or problems. But, the shifts are not exaclty smooth into gear. I deduced that the issue will be resolved by a spacer between the slave and the trans like you stated. Again, like you said, the TPiS would be the best choice. I have not experienced premature clutch failure, excessive synchro wear, or any other problems. But you have it right on. All of these problems I have with my T56 swap will be addressed soon.
One other thing, an 03 Mustang leather 6-speed **** comes close to the GM Graphite color and can be easily adapted the the Chevy shifter. I hated to use a Ford
part, but it worked and I guess that's all that matters. Nice!!!I also have a two piece Graphite console that I will be listing in the classifieds or on eBay in the near future.
Cody
02-16-2009, 03:40 PM
#628
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GTO VSS reluctor
Cody,
How did your speedometer calibration work out?
I believe the GTO T56 already has the 40 tooth VSS reluctor. Is that correct?
The GTO trans would have been my first choice but I couldn't find one at a reasonable price. The end result being that I had to change my rear gearset to a 4.56 to enable a more reasonable final drive ratio.
Thanks for the comments.
How did your speedometer calibration work out?
I believe the GTO T56 already has the 40 tooth VSS reluctor. Is that correct?
The GTO trans would have been my first choice but I couldn't find one at a reasonable price. The end result being that I had to change my rear gearset to a 4.56 to enable a more reasonable final drive ratio.
Thanks for the comments.
02-16-2009, 07:10 PM
#629
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Alright..99-02 model trucks have the CORRECT crossmember..and if you didnt use the shim's, the clutch engagement would be incorrect and there would be premature clutch wear which leads to non accurate and/or rough shifting into early clutch failure.