Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!
02-16-2009, 07:50 PM
#632
Launching!
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Alright I wrote some chit, but erased it all.
I scoured the net to find this. A COMPLETE parts list for 99-03 trucks. A great resource for info. Glad I found it.
Link....
http://www.denalitrucks.com/document...opartslist.pdf
It says there are 3 different crossmembers in our trucks of these years.
X-member
Manual #15748078 (i used this one)
Auto (99-00) #15998641
Auto (01-03) #15040426
So I am not sure which one. Scatillac, which one did you use?
I scoured the net to find this. A COMPLETE parts list for 99-03 trucks. A great resource for info. Glad I found it.
Link....
http://www.denalitrucks.com/document...opartslist.pdf
It says there are 3 different crossmembers in our trucks of these years.
X-member
Manual #15748078 (i used this one)
Auto (99-00) #15998641
Auto (01-03) #15040426
So I am not sure which one. Scatillac, which one did you use?
02-17-2009, 06:24 AM
#633
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Crossmember
Cody,
I believe that it was the one for an 01-03 automatic, but I'm not for sure. There was no part number on the one I used.
I believe that the 02 FWD e/w an NV3500 manual is the same. I have a friend who has one and I'll check his today an post it up this evening. I remember looking under his truck and the crossmember was square and not humped like my 2WD NV3500.
The local junk yard guy was dismantling quite a few trucks and the crossmember that I used was in the bed of an 02 extended cab with several others. I picked the one that matched my measurements and paid my $40.
In general........
When starting a transmission conversion, take a measurement from the transmission output shaft to the ground as a reference point for your driveline height/angle (trans output shaft c/l side to side measurements don't hurt either). Assuming that the driveline was sorted out prior to the swap, this will insure that the geometry remains the same.
I did mine after the truck was up on stands, with the driveshaft out. The truck remained at the same height throughout the swap so the reference point remained valid.
I believe that it was the one for an 01-03 automatic, but I'm not for sure. There was no part number on the one I used.
I believe that the 02 FWD e/w an NV3500 manual is the same. I have a friend who has one and I'll check his today an post it up this evening. I remember looking under his truck and the crossmember was square and not humped like my 2WD NV3500.
The local junk yard guy was dismantling quite a few trucks and the crossmember that I used was in the bed of an 02 extended cab with several others. I picked the one that matched my measurements and paid my $40.
In general........
When starting a transmission conversion, take a measurement from the transmission output shaft to the ground as a reference point for your driveline height/angle (trans output shaft c/l side to side measurements don't hurt either). Assuming that the driveline was sorted out prior to the swap, this will insure that the geometry remains the same.
I did mine after the truck was up on stands, with the driveshaft out. The truck remained at the same height throughout the swap so the reference point remained valid.
Last edited by scatillac; 02-17-2009 at 06:46 AM. Reason: Added info.
02-17-2009, 05:32 PM
#634
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Square Crossmember
I checked my friend's truck this evening and it does have the square crossmember. It's an '02 4.8L RCSWB 4WD w/an M5 (NV3500). In addition to being square, it also has a shallow relief for the front driveshaft.
The salvage yard guy says that this crossmember is pretty common on the short wheelbase trucks, the exception being an M5 in 2WD, which has the hump.
Remember, to use the square one, you must add a piece of inverted channel to get the correct height. The increase needed is about 1 3/8".
The salvage yard guy says that this crossmember is pretty common on the short wheelbase trucks, the exception being an M5 in 2WD, which has the hump.
Remember, to use the square one, you must add a piece of inverted channel to get the correct height. The increase needed is about 1 3/8".
02-19-2009, 07:29 AM
#635
Staging Lane
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I just finished swapping an MM6 TREMEC form an 01 Camaro into my 02 Silverado RCSWB, which was formerly equipped with an NV3500 5-speed.
I want to apologize in advance if any of this stuff is redundant, but I don't recall seeing these details in the thread.
The final driveshaft length for an RCSWB is 59 1/2". You could probably go 59 5/8" if you wanted to.
The NV3500 truck crossmember lines up with all mounts on the frame and transmission, but is about 1 1/2" too high and you will have your u-joint to driveshaft angles FUBAR'd if you use it. The one I used came out of an 02-03 truck and was square instead of having a hump. I inverted a piece of channel to adapt it to the trans at the right height. Two beads of weld and you're done. Another bonus of using the square crossmember is the opening up of some additional space for your exhaust system.
I used a Keisler front mount shifter which allowed the used of the stock boot and shifter in (almost) the stock location. I fabbed an adapter to forward mount the truck handle to the Keisler shifter stub. The floor will still have to be trimmed but it will all be under the boot. You can reused the stock insulator that mounts around the shifter housing.
Speedometer calibration and cruise control woes are eliminated by using a JTR reluctor on the rear end yoke with the sensor out of the NV3500. They are going to be making a 40 tooth reluctor to replace the 17 tooth one in the trans at sometime in the future.
As mentioned in the thread, a Camaro slave was used, along with the truck line. It was bled during installation by allowing the fluid to drain through the bleeder and then closing the bleeder and compressing the bearing, which forces any air back up the line. Two compressions and you're done.
A word about clutch engagement....the flywheel for the NV3500 equipped engines is offset about 10 mm towards the transmission as compared to the flywheel from a F or Y-body car. Although you could use a the pressure plate clutch and disc from the cars with the truck flywheel, there is some overlap (around 1/8") of the car disc on the flywheel side of the disc, so it's better to use the matching flywheel from the car. This will leave you with your pedal engagement a bit closer to the floor. In order to correctly restore the engagement to approximately it's original location, you can use a spacer behind the clutch slave. This spacer cannot be thicker than the flywheel offset mentioned above. Anywhere from 5 mm to 10 mm is fine and even the 5 mm will make a noticable difference. Both TPIS and Katech make spacers for the CTS-V which will work, although the Katech spacer is much thicker and must be shortened before it can be used. The TPIS spacer is fine as is. There are some shims available from GM for the CTS-V that can also be used, although they have to be stacked to get the desired thickness.
One other thing, an 03 Mustang leather 6-speed **** comes close to the GM Graphite color and can be easily adapted the the Chevy shifter. I hated to use a Ford
part, but it worked and I guess that's all that matters.
I also have a two piece Graphite console that I will be listing in the classifieds or on eBay in the near future.
I want to apologize in advance if any of this stuff is redundant, but I don't recall seeing these details in the thread.
The final driveshaft length for an RCSWB is 59 1/2". You could probably go 59 5/8" if you wanted to.
The NV3500 truck crossmember lines up with all mounts on the frame and transmission, but is about 1 1/2" too high and you will have your u-joint to driveshaft angles FUBAR'd if you use it. The one I used came out of an 02-03 truck and was square instead of having a hump. I inverted a piece of channel to adapt it to the trans at the right height. Two beads of weld and you're done. Another bonus of using the square crossmember is the opening up of some additional space for your exhaust system.
I used a Keisler front mount shifter which allowed the used of the stock boot and shifter in (almost) the stock location. I fabbed an adapter to forward mount the truck handle to the Keisler shifter stub. The floor will still have to be trimmed but it will all be under the boot. You can reused the stock insulator that mounts around the shifter housing.
Speedometer calibration and cruise control woes are eliminated by using a JTR reluctor on the rear end yoke with the sensor out of the NV3500. They are going to be making a 40 tooth reluctor to replace the 17 tooth one in the trans at sometime in the future.
As mentioned in the thread, a Camaro slave was used, along with the truck line. It was bled during installation by allowing the fluid to drain through the bleeder and then closing the bleeder and compressing the bearing, which forces any air back up the line. Two compressions and you're done.
A word about clutch engagement....the flywheel for the NV3500 equipped engines is offset about 10 mm towards the transmission as compared to the flywheel from a F or Y-body car. Although you could use a the pressure plate clutch and disc from the cars with the truck flywheel, there is some overlap (around 1/8") of the car disc on the flywheel side of the disc, so it's better to use the matching flywheel from the car. This will leave you with your pedal engagement a bit closer to the floor. In order to correctly restore the engagement to approximately it's original location, you can use a spacer behind the clutch slave. This spacer cannot be thicker than the flywheel offset mentioned above. Anywhere from 5 mm to 10 mm is fine and even the 5 mm will make a noticable difference. Both TPIS and Katech make spacers for the CTS-V which will work, although the Katech spacer is much thicker and must be shortened before it can be used. The TPIS spacer is fine as is. There are some shims available from GM for the CTS-V that can also be used, although they have to be stacked to get the desired thickness.
One other thing, an 03 Mustang leather 6-speed **** comes close to the GM Graphite color and can be easily adapted the the Chevy shifter. I hated to use a Ford
part, but it worked and I guess that's all that matters.I also have a two piece Graphite console that I will be listing in the classifieds or on eBay in the near future.
02-27-2009, 02:30 PM
#637
Staging Lane
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Finally got to do my swap this weekend....due to all the helpfull info on this thread it was a breeze...i ran into one problem, which was my own fault..i forgot to pick up a new pilot brearing..after i ran and got one we had it back together and going..it took about 3 hours altogether...My truck was a five speed truck which helped out alot...didnt have to mess with installing a pedal/mastercylinder.....After the swap you will most deff Need some gears and tune as noted throughout the thread...I am driving my truck now with 3.42's and its a pooch...I think i am going to get 4.88's for my rear..tune, then done.
Thanks to everyone for all of the information on this thread
Thanks to everyone for all of the information on this thread
02-27-2009, 03:14 PM
#638
Finally got to do my swap this weekend....due to all the helpfull info on this thread it was a breeze...i ran into one problem, which was my own fault..i forgot to pick up a new pilot brearing..after i ran and got one we had it back together and going..it took about 3 hours altogether...My truck was a five speed truck which helped out alot...didnt have to mess with installing a pedal/mastercylinder.....After the swap you will most deff Need some gears and tune as noted throughout the thread...I am driving my truck now with 3.42's and its a pooch...I think i am going to get 4.88's for my rear..tune, then done.
Thanks to everyone for all of the information on this thread
Thanks to everyone for all of the information on this thread
