Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!
12-13-2009, 01:19 PM
#702
here is the writeup on ls1tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
12-13-2009, 05:08 PM
#703
Formerly darynC-10/23/10
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For modding the stock master, standard solution is to use a long coupling nut. Cut the master cyl rod in half, weld the nut to one section, and thread the other.
here is the writeup on ls1tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
here is the writeup on ls1tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
thats what i ment. good write-up too!
01-05-2010, 03:15 PM
#705
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T56 in a silverado prerunner
Well iv read this whole thread over about 2 days and i have most of it memorized and i know this is what i want to do with a 2003 silverado im buying. the truck IS 2wd and has a longtravel prerunner suspension and caging work done to it. interior is still stock though. the truck is lifted about 6 inches or so and has aftermarket leaf springs and shocks in the rear with coilovers in the front. its sitting on 37 inch tires with 4.56 gears, i was wanting to know if the T56 could handle a 7xxx pound truck on 37s with a basic bolt on 4.8, Thanks guys
01-05-2010, 06:55 PM
#707
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trust me i know they put them behind some crazy engines but those aernt stock T56s. im talking about a completely stock used $1200 T56 out of an LS1 car. the F-bodys and GTOs weigh close to 3800 pounds dry and put down right around 300-325 at the rear tires but im talking about a 7700 pound truck with 37 inch tires. i want to daily drive the truck and still be able to beat on it offroad when i want to..
01-05-2010, 08:48 PM
#708
I am talking about "stock" T56s.
There really isn't anything to make them "stronger" (yes you CAN cryo/heat treat/walnut polish everything....). About the only things that ever gets broken is the shift fork pads (people try to power shift, miss, and bend/brake the forks) or they destroy the syncros (again...power shifting...). Other than that, the T56 is pretty much indestructible.
There really isn't anything to make them "stronger" (yes you CAN cryo/heat treat/walnut polish everything....). About the only things that ever gets broken is the shift fork pads (people try to power shift, miss, and bend/brake the forks) or they destroy the syncros (again...power shifting...). Other than that, the T56 is pretty much indestructible.
01-05-2010, 09:15 PM
#709
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Alright cool, thanks for the info. now since im getting the truck for around 14k is it possible to do the whole swap for about 2k including purchase price of the T56 or an i looking more along the lines of 3k? how did your gas mileage differ from the 4L60E compared to the T56?
01-05-2010, 09:46 PM
#710
Alright cool, thanks for the info. now since im getting the truck for around 14k is it possible to do the whole swap for about 2k including purchase price of the T56 or an i looking more along the lines of 3k? how did your gas mileage differ from the 4L60E compared to the T56?
I get parts for 10% over cost (friend at local dealer) and what I have seen thus far (for new parts):
pedal assembly = $50
master cylinder = $100
slave cylinder = $115
shifter = $175-$250 (good aftermarket unit)
manual cross member = $100
clutch = $250 (LS7) to $1000+ (some of the crazy stuff)...I'm planning $500
billet steel flywheel = $250
bell housing = $250 (stock) or $500 (SFI steel)
that's everything I can think of.....if you had to buy everything listed
:$1290 on the low....
$1865 on the high....