Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!
#821
5 year bitches!
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with the weight of our trucks the clutches on the market dont seem to carry the same rating as they do for the cars. the clutch i had prior suppose to be rated to 7-800 but it didnt last long at those levels behind a heavy truck
#822
On The Tree
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im makin about 450 wheel know but with the plans of nitrious in the close future i wanna make shure the clutch i pick is gunna hold out. Just cant stand the puck style chatter. Is a solid disk twin agressive as well?
#823
5 year bitches!
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also got to becareful with clutches having to strong of a pressure plate and killing the pedal. i had to put a steel plate on the firewall cause i kept breaking pedals. this eliminates the whole plastic pedal square. i still use stock pedal but use a reinforcement plate on firewall for the master. however the stock master's bore isnt large enough for real clutches. im looking into other options to cure this as i got make this T56 **** work for me.
#825
5 year bitches!
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yes, the pedal is weak plastic and when you go aftermarket clutch which has a strong pressure plate the plastic flange where the master clicks in is the weakest link. ive bent the pushrod as well cause of a stiff clutch. my pushrod is not 5/16 solid rod
#826
TECH Veteran
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FYI: for guys with the tranny temp gauge in their cluster, you can still use the gauge if you keep an "automatic based tune" (ie: take a tune from an A4 truck, turn off all the codes, and adjust parameters) and use a factory water temp sensor. The "automatic based tune" is needed in order to keep the sensor pins enabled in the ECU (manual trucks don't have these pins enabled). Splice a coolant temp sensor connector onto the factory tranny temp wires and install the sensor in whatever you want (engine oil/tranny/etc).
I have my sensor installed into the oil block of my engine oil cooler. The reading is dead on (at dead on as the water temp sensor is at reading water temp). I have confirmed the readings are correct by hooking the tranny temp plug onto the engine coolant temp sensor (in the cylinder head) and the temps matched back to back.
I have my sensor installed into the oil block of my engine oil cooler. The reading is dead on (at dead on as the water temp sensor is at reading water temp). I have confirmed the readings are correct by hooking the tranny temp plug onto the engine coolant temp sensor (in the cylinder head) and the temps matched back to back.
#827
Launching!
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i have a quick question for t-56 swappers.
i have an auto tune with the dtcs removed and when i shift into neutral on the highway and let off the gas the truck will sometimes stall. anyone have an idea what that would be?
i have an auto tune with the dtcs removed and when i shift into neutral on the highway and let off the gas the truck will sometimes stall. anyone have an idea what that would be?
#829
TECH Veteran
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Odd, but by going back to the automatic tune (to use the above posted tranny temp gauge as my oil temp gauge), I now have cruse in 6th gear. My speedo is correct and everything else is working as it should. The only issue I have run into is that unless I push the clutch BEFORE I key on the ignition, the truck doesn't power on "in park" and thus won't start. If I push the clutch BEFORE I key on, it starts.
#830
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Odd, but by going back to the automatic tune (to use the above posted tranny temp gauge as my oil temp gauge), I now have cruse in 6th gear. My speedo is correct and everything else is working as it should. The only issue I have run into is that unless I push the clutch BEFORE I key on the ignition, the truck doesn't power on "in park" and thus won't start. If I push the clutch BEFORE I key on, it starts.