Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!
#871
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I ordered a custom leather boot from redlinegoods with my dimensions to the handle per their custom order specs. If you want to cover the cup holder slots on the passenger side with the boot, have them leave 3-4" of extra material. I didn't and used a black antifreeze jug platic and glued it in (hind sight is 20/20).
I used 5/8" ish wide steel shipping banding to secure the boot. I hand bent and formed the banding around the inside of the hole, drilling 1/8" holes through banding and plastic to hold it in place with screws as I went. I had to cut "V's" in the banding in the corners to conform to the compound angles. dis-assemble and re-assemble with boot. Once all is the way you like it, remove one screw at a time and install a rivet.
#872
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I looked back and found this in post #474
I finally finished my shifter boot!
Ended up with plan 1 since it was more simple and I finally figured out how I was going to do it.
I used steel banding like used in shipping on palets.
-I bent the banding to the shape of the inside of the cup holder compartment.
-Using clamps held it in place as I worked it.
-I began drilling 1/8" holes and installing 1/8" sheet metal screws one at a time.
-After I get all the screws in I take it back apart and install the boot with the screws.
-Once all the srews are in I removed them one at a time and put in rivets since the screw head would be too thick and in the way for the cupholder assembly to snap back in.
I finally finished my shifter boot!
Ended up with plan 1 since it was more simple and I finally figured out how I was going to do it.
I used steel banding like used in shipping on palets.
-I bent the banding to the shape of the inside of the cup holder compartment.
-Using clamps held it in place as I worked it.
-I began drilling 1/8" holes and installing 1/8" sheet metal screws one at a time.
-After I get all the screws in I take it back apart and install the boot with the screws.
-Once all the srews are in I removed them one at a time and put in rivets since the screw head would be too thick and in the way for the cupholder assembly to snap back in.
#874
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So I just did my t56 swap into a 5 speed truck already so it was pretty easy for me to my crossmember worked but I had to cut it and reweld it back in a inch shorter I mated the car slave to the truck line driveshaft had to be cut the measurement I had was 59 1/4 but those 3.73s need to go I'm going to 4.56 so we will see how that goes but it is way better then that nv3500 And the truck hydraulics worked with the clutch I ran I'm running a act 6 puck sprung and it has no problem shifting and disengaging