Which one would you take (trans)
12-29-2005, 06:55 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by thunder550
Zippy seems to know his ****, and his response was
"in stock form the 70E will take 400hp rather easily with propper trans programming. a 70E with a propperly done shift kit including servo's with propper trans programming could easily take 600hp. they are a very well built trans right from the factory. trust me, GM spent some time and research in building the 70E."
"in stock form the 70E will take 400hp rather easily with propper trans programming. a 70E with a propperly done shift kit including servo's with propper trans programming could easily take 600hp. they are a very well built trans right from the factory. trust me, GM spent some time and research in building the 70E."
Notice he said that twice? That's the main part in making these electronic transmissions live.
12-29-2005, 09:39 PM
#43
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My 4l80e was slipping bad during lock-up the stock 4l80e tune could not supply the oil needed to the TCC. I adjusted the forcing moter table, shift tables and lock up tables. IMO Trans tuneing takes the longest to get right, and the more you have done the more you have to adjust. Unless you are not picky. (sp) I am!
12-29-2005, 11:23 PM
#44
FLP Level5 65E $2850
FLP Level4 80E $2150
What is the cost going to be on a complete conversion kit? If its under $700 then you're still breaking even and you get a 80E. I would think a Level 4 80E would bitch slap a Level 5 65E. Have you called Chuck and asked him straight up? He told me a level 5 65E would hold up to my setup which is VERY close to your setup. But if the cost difference is going to be peanuts maybe the 80E is the better way to go. You know your gonna pulley down, go to forged internals, and add a 100 shot next month anyway so you might want to plan ahead...
Seriously tho, are you gonna stop adding power after you get the tranny sorted out? I bet with a 80E you could go to 4:56 gears and still not kill your MPG on the highway because of the OD gearing in the 80E...hmmmmm STOP STOP AHHHH!!!!
FLP Level4 80E $2150
What is the cost going to be on a complete conversion kit? If its under $700 then you're still breaking even and you get a 80E. I would think a Level 4 80E would bitch slap a Level 5 65E. Have you called Chuck and asked him straight up? He told me a level 5 65E would hold up to my setup which is VERY close to your setup. But if the cost difference is going to be peanuts maybe the 80E is the better way to go. You know your gonna pulley down, go to forged internals, and add a 100 shot next month anyway so you might want to plan ahead...
Seriously tho, are you gonna stop adding power after you get the tranny sorted out? I bet with a 80E you could go to 4:56 gears and still not kill your MPG on the highway because of the OD gearing in the 80E...hmmmmm STOP STOP AHHHH!!!!
12-29-2005, 11:31 PM
#45
Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
FLP Level5 65E $2850
FLP Level4 80E $2150
What is the cost going to be on a complete conversion kit? If its under $700 then you're still breaking even and you get a 80E. I would think a Level 4 80E would bitch slap a Level 5 65E. Have you called Chuck and asked him straight up? He told me a level 5 65E would hold up to my setup which is VERY close to your setup. But if the cost difference is going to be peanuts maybe the 80E is the better way to go. You know your gonna pulley down, go to forged internals, and add a 100 shot next month anyway so you might want to plan ahead... Seriously tho, are you gonna stop adding power after you get the tranny sorted out? I bet with a 80E you could go to 4:56 gears and still not kill your MPG on the highway because of the OD gearing in the 80E...hmmmmm STOP STOP AHHHH!!!!
FLP Level4 80E $2150
What is the cost going to be on a complete conversion kit? If its under $700 then you're still breaking even and you get a 80E. I would think a Level 4 80E would bitch slap a Level 5 65E. Have you called Chuck and asked him straight up? He told me a level 5 65E would hold up to my setup which is VERY close to your setup. But if the cost difference is going to be peanuts maybe the 80E is the better way to go. You know your gonna pulley down, go to forged internals, and add a 100 shot next month anyway so you might want to plan ahead...
Seriously tho, are you gonna stop adding power after you get the tranny sorted out? I bet with a 80E you could go to 4:56 gears and still not kill your MPG on the highway because of the OD gearing in the 80E...hmmmmm STOP STOP AHHHH!!!! Hahaha look what you're doing to yourself....
I had the truck towed to my tranny shop today, I gave up on trying to pull the thing myself. He wants to tear into the 60E and find out what failed, keeps telling me I don't need to go to an 80. I'm out of town next week so I told him to take his time, he should know what's wrong by the time I get back then I can make a decision on what to do.
I probably won't stop adding power, but I think it will start to slow down. The next big step is to get the LQ9 in there, then I pulley down to get that up to 9psi...I think if I go much further than that I will have to go to forged internals, but who knows. I'm interested in running a small shot of nitrous at some point and changing out to 4.10 gears, but if I went to forged internals I might build a stroker at the same time, damn who knows. You do make a good point though. The 600hp I am throwing out takes into consideration the next round of planned mods, but not much beyond that. I'll have all next week to think on it.
12-29-2005, 11:47 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by thunder550
I probably won't stop adding power, but I think it will start to slow down. The next big step is to get the LQ9 in there, then I pulley down to get that up to 9psi...I think if I go much further than that I will have to go to forged internals, but who knows. I'm interested in running a small shot of nitrous at some point and changing out to 4.10 gears, but if I went to forged internals I might build a stroker at the same time, damn who knows. You do make a good point though. The 600hp I am throwing out takes into consideration the next round of planned mods, but not much beyond that. I'll have all next week to think on it.
When you use the terms stroker, psi, forged internals and N20, then the 80E should be right behind it.Oh yeah, for the T56 and 4wd, you'd have your work cutout for you. The tailshaft houses the shifter and its a monstrosity. Not like an auto at all. You could go through Keisler to move the shifter foward, but then it'd be out of comfortable reach, necesitating a funky shifter handle. I don't know what you'd do about the electronics either.
12-30-2005, 12:11 AM
#47
I think the 80E is probably gonna be the way to go.Thanks for the update on the T56. In some abstract way I was thinking it would be shitloads of work, but thank you for confirming that suspicion with actual facts. How is your swap going?
12-30-2005, 01:40 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by thunder550
How is your swap going?
It's going.
Yesterday was the first day I actually wrenched on it. Got the 60E out, and was glad to see the 4.8 auto crank is the same as all the others. xrevx1 on here ran into some issues with his, because it was a 4.8/manual. The 5spd x-member won't work, because my truck is a 2000 and I have the earlier style x-member and mounts. I'm going to fab some thing up out of the existing one. I have to make a nut plate for the pedal bracket too. I don't see why it won't be up and running later this week. We'll see. 
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