problem installing gears
05-10-2009, 10:31 PM
#1
problem installing gears
I started trying to install my 4.10 gear set today and did not get past putting the pinion back in then removing it again. The pinion had to much play back and forth and the crush sleeve did not even crush any ideas? Should I have used more shims to start?
05-10-2009, 11:43 PM
#5
One of two problems:
1. You do not know that the pinion nut gets tight before the bearings seat in the races (not trying to be a jerk BTW).
2. You have a truck with a different inner pinion bearing and are trying to use the new bearing with the old race.
Given that you are doing this yourself, I will assume that you have already installed the new pinion bearing races. Also note again, some year model trucks have a different inner pinion bearing than what is standard in the master install kits. The difference is obvious. You MUST use the correct bearing with the correct race. Like said, if you installed the new races, this shouldn't be the problem.
Now, the 4.10 gear set for your axle requires .035" shim to achieve the correct pinion depth. The parts that should be on the pinion BEFORE putting it in the axle should be shims, inner pinion bearing, crush sleeve.
It takes 400+ ft. lbs. to crush the crush sleeve. The pinion nut will get tight before the bearings seat which means the pinion will have excessive play until the crush sleeve is crushed to the point that the bearings are fully seated in the races.
Be sure to use red lock tight on the pinion nut and oil the pinion seal and the contact surface of the pinion yoke. Also, prelube the inner and outer pinion bearings so that your preload readings are more accurate. Systematically tighten the pinion nut and check the play. Once you have achieved zero play, CAREFULLY tighten the the pinion nut in small increments until you have the correct pinion bearing preload. I cannot stress the importance of this because once the bearings are seated, preload increases very quickly with the slightest turn of the pinion nut. Pinion bearing preload must be measured with a bar-type, or any other NON-CLICK IN. LB. torque wrench. The proper amount of preload for the pinion is 14-19 in. lbs. If you over crush the sleeve, you will have to start over with a new crush sleeve.
Now for the backlash of the ring gear. I am assuming again that since you are doing the final pinion assembly that you have achieved the .006" - .010" backlash required for these gears using a dial indicator and a magnetic base. The differential + the shims MUST be a tight fit. You SHOULD NOT be able to grab the differential once it is in place (with the bearing caps removed) and pull it out under your own strenght. The best method I find for getting it in there tight is to install the differential with the ring gear side shims first. Once those parts are place, install the passenger side shims as far as you can with your hand, and then using a hammer and a punch, hammer them in the rest of the way.
05-11-2009, 07:10 PM
#9
If you choose to fully break them in, after the initial break you should drive the truck as if a cop is behind you. No hard starts, no hauling, no towing till you 500 miles. Keep your speed under 60 as well.
05-11-2009, 07:39 PM
#10
Oh. Well, ideally you should put 500 miles on the gears before you run them on the track. If that is not possible, then at least drive the truck for 30 minutes preferably down the highway at no more than 60 MPH. Afterwards, park the truck and let the differential cool completely. That will at least get the initial break-in done.
If you choose to fully break them in, after the initial break you should drive the truck as if a cop is behind you. No hard starts, no hauling, no towing till you 500 miles. Keep your speed under 60 as well.
If you choose to fully break them in, after the initial break you should drive the truck as if a cop is behind you. No hard starts, no hauling, no towing till you 500 miles. Keep your speed under 60 as well.