Alright guys I have a problem and I am tired of getting stupid answers from a lot of the tranny shops around here. I blew my 4L60E up. Snapped the out put shaft. So I bought the tranny off of Phantom. Well I installed everything with the help of my dad and Justin (cant remember what his name is on here) but that is besides the point. So i get it all installed and back together take it out for a test drive and everthing seemed ok, untill i got it onto the highway. Everything seemed fine and I noticed that my converter hasnt looked up yet. Before the tranny blew it would do 2,000 at 70 but now I am doing 2500 at 70 is there anything I can do to see whats going on? The guy I go to that does my tunning said that the converter is completly trashed, but i as soon as my tranny blew i pulled over and parked it. I need your guys help. something

 

I don't know much but just a thought. If the converter is indeed commanding a lockup but is not maybe the o ring on the input shaft is missing or damaged or the lockup solenoid is not working.

 

You need to scan the truck while driving it, to find out if it's commanding lockup or not. You should be able to watch the PCM command 3rd gear, then 4th gear, then 4th gear lockup. You should see the engine rpm change with each shift. If it is commanding the shift, but it isn't happening, you've either got a bad converter, or a bad 3-4 clutch pack. If it isn't commanding the shift, and the lockup, then you may have other issues(like misfires) that prevent the PCM from commanding lockup.

 

Most common no lockup issue or sloppy lockup issue I see AFTER people re-install a 4L60E is they forget to check/install the orage o-ring on the input shaft....if you pull the converter off you can check the groove right behind the splines...you can't miss it.

OR if its a very high mileage unit the other 2 internal issues would be the lockup solenoid(should throw a code though) and/or the lockup control valve....Any unit I rebuild gets the full pressure valve that eliminates any possibilty for a bad valve or worn bore.

This is where the O-ring should be

 

here is the lockup control valve that normally goes bad in high mileage units.

Also don't rule out that a stuck break switch won't allow lockup to work as the computer is designed to turn off lockup when you brake. But I think you should have it scanned to see if its commmanding lockup. if it does cammand then look into the O-ring and this valve Code 1870 fix. This valve can beinstalled with trans in the vehicle and just by dropping the pan and valvebody

4L60E TCC VALVE UPGRADE REPLACEMENT FIX P1870 CODE 7 '95-'00 BY TECKPAK | eBay

 

if you reused your old converter with out getting it cut and flushed idk what you expected.

 

IMO since he snapped the output the truck should have stopped moving right then and there....there would be no reason why the converter clutch to have been damaged if re-used even though not recommended. I have seen several outputs break and there really isn't any contamination in any of the ones I have done.

 

When you've broken as many 60E's as I have, you don't cut & clean the converter every single time. You dump the converter into a clean bucket or pan, and take a look. If the fluid is clean & clear, and no metal or clutch debris, it's probably good-to-go. Of course, it still depends on what failed in the transmission.

When I broke my output shaft, the converter had metal in it, so it was cut & cleaned. But there were at least 3 or 4 times that a cut & clean was not necessary.

 

Ok, well when the output shaft broke, the converter was locking up and was tuned for it. Is it possible for it detune when I swapped it? Could the soliniod be a possiblilty as well? I am completly clueless and It's running great just wont lock up in overdrive.

 

What were the trans temps? If they are below 75* it will not lockup. Also are you sure the fluid is full?