mikerlew

As long as nothing goes wrong, I think I should only have to replace the carrier housing. What went wrong on mine was that the locker failed and shredded apart, potentially causing damage to the spider gears. I decided to replace the carrier with a used one for now, and am hoping that I don’t have to do any adjustments on the Pinion or Ring gear. I am also now hoping the shims are still in good condition, but I’ll find out when I tear into it

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Since im learning a bunch reading this I will ask here, does the crush sleeve have to be re-crushed on a 9.5" 14b as well similar to the 10b? I need to replace the pinion seal but really dont want to mess with the crush sleeve unless I get it started in my press lol

mikerlew

I think from what I know, you’ll need to get a new crush sleeve for a 14b. There’s a lot of similarities with the 10b and 14b, and I think this is one of them. But just like the 10b, it might (I have no idea how) be possible to replace the seal without a new crush sleeve. Maybe on YouTube? I found this thread that might help.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threa...stion.1005579/

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

They few times i have done a pinion seal i mark the shaft and nut, remove, do seal work and retighten nut back to where you marked it and i add some thread locker since pinion nuts arent suppose to be reused. Im sure some will argue it but in my head ur just putting what preload was there back on it without crushing the sleeve anymore.


and to add to my post 10yrs or so ago asking questions, i ended up going with a eaton clutch lsd and used the same shims thickness that came out of the truck and had the same backlash with just a carrier swap.
if i rem right its been awhile lol

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

This is basically how you want to do it to change a seal with out replacing the crush sleeve.

mikerlew

I feel dumb for asking a question on a topic I answered, If I take off the Pinion Nut, do I screw anything up? I took it off thinking I had to replace the pinion, but it was the carrier. If i haven't messed with the pinion seals, bearings, etc, do I need to put more money into this? Thank you

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

If you didn't mark it, It would be hard to get it back exactly like it was before. But you can tighten it back up and measure the force to get the correct preload.

firebladeJJ

iTrader: (1)

last time i changed the pinion seal I changed the crush sleeve with a solid spacer with shims, marked the pinion nut and what not. got it back to the same depth and drag, that was a couple years ago and it seems to be doing fine, drive it everyday.

mikerlew

Ah Okay. I did not mark it, but I measured the amount of foot-pounds of torque, so I think I should be good then. That’s a relief.

3wide

Look what happened here when someone messed up a seal replacement: