PT.net Gear Install How-To
#71
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
As mentioned, when reusing the crush sleeve. You can NOT just torque it to a spec. The Original spec is used to crush the sleeve and obtain a certain amount of drag. This is why you need to mark the nut in relation to the pinion gear when you remove it. You can measure the drag if you sneak up on it and have the right equipment.
The following users liked this post:
3wide (02-27-2021)
#72
When replacing a pinion seal you must first put alignment marks on the pinion nut and pinion snout. Afterwards, remove the nut, remove the yoke, and replace the seal. When you put everything back together, HAND TIGHTEN the nut until the alignment marks line up. Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the nut until the alignment mark on the nut is just passed the alignment mark on the pinion snout. Don't forget the red thread locker, and it wouldn't hurt to stake the pinion nut as well.
#73
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
When replacing a pinion seal you must first put alignment marks on the pinion nut and pinion snout. Afterwards, remove the nut, remove the yoke, and replace the seal. When you put everything back together, HAND TIGHTEN the nut until the alignment marks line up. Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the nut until the alignment mark on the nut is just passed the alignment mark on the pinion snout. Don't forget the red thread locker, and it wouldn't hurt to stake the pinion nut as well.
#75
Teching In
Solution #4
So, I came back at it to take the differential out, and after several attempts with a crow bar, sockets, straps, hammers+wood, I could not figure it out.
I put the Pinion Nut on and tightened that up, (putting a rag in the pinion/ring mesh to lock it) and it popped out. Note that the carrier bolts were out. It popped out halfway and I pried it out the rest of the way!
It’s safe to say that my Locking Carrier failed, which messed up the Pinion severely, and potentially some bearings. Yay I get a full rebuild. Lucky me.
If anybody has advice for what to watch out for while installing all the shims, bearings, and seals and of course the pinion and ring gear, I would greatly appreciate it.
I bought a Ring and Pinion kit off Amazon. It’s nothing performance, but it’ll hold me for the next year at least.
I put the Pinion Nut on and tightened that up, (putting a rag in the pinion/ring mesh to lock it) and it popped out. Note that the carrier bolts were out. It popped out halfway and I pried it out the rest of the way!
It’s safe to say that my Locking Carrier failed, which messed up the Pinion severely, and potentially some bearings. Yay I get a full rebuild. Lucky me.
If anybody has advice for what to watch out for while installing all the shims, bearings, and seals and of course the pinion and ring gear, I would greatly appreciate it.
I bought a Ring and Pinion kit off Amazon. It’s nothing performance, but it’ll hold me for the next year at least.
#76
Teching In
New question. I have no idea if anyone will respond, but I am planning on getting the new pinion and ring all set in and aligned correctly. I believe the default pinion shim for a 3.73 (or 4.10 in my case) is 0.035in or so. I’m going with that, and will play around with the side shims.
my question is once I put it back together, assuming the alignment w/ paint on the ring gear is all clear, and the backlash is around 0.006-0.010 in, once I start driving will there be any warning signs 50 miles down the road if it’s not good enough? I don’t want to drive and then have a few hundred dollars down the drain.
just trying to cover my bases.
thanks for the responses years later
Axle in question is GM 10 bolt (8.5/8.6inch) and with a 4.10 gear ratio. Thanks for the help if possible!
have a great day!
Ready to put together, front carrier is the new guy, the back left is the old screwed over one, right one is from the donor
my question is once I put it back together, assuming the alignment w/ paint on the ring gear is all clear, and the backlash is around 0.006-0.010 in, once I start driving will there be any warning signs 50 miles down the road if it’s not good enough? I don’t want to drive and then have a few hundred dollars down the drain.
just trying to cover my bases.
thanks for the responses years later
Axle in question is GM 10 bolt (8.5/8.6inch) and with a 4.10 gear ratio. Thanks for the help if possible!
have a great day!
Ready to put together, front carrier is the new guy, the back left is the old screwed over one, right one is from the donor
#77
100% Redneck
There is really no default shim but the OEM pinion shim is a good starting point and may or may not be 100% correct. Yes if you hit all the spec numbers and the paint looks good and no strange noises I'd say job well done.
#78
Teching In
Okay that’s what I was thinking. I’m always paranoid that something is gonna mess up for some reason. I wish I could get the OEM pinion shim, but man I cannot seem to get it out without a press. Augh haha
#80
Teching In
I have a makeshift press, but it’s enough to press off 17 years of a pinion. I was thinking freezing the pinion and heating the bearings so yes