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As mentioned, when reusing the crush sleeve. You can NOT just torque it to a spec. The Original spec is used to crush the sleeve and obtain a certain amount of drag. This is why you need to mark the nut in relation to the pinion gear when you remove it. You can measure the drag if you sneak up on it and have the right equipment.
Since im learning a bunch reading this I will ask here, does the crush sleeve have to be re-crushed on a 9.5" 14b as well similar to the 10b? I need to replace the pinion seal but really dont want to mess with the crush sleeve unless I get it started in my press lol
When replacing a pinion seal you must first put alignment marks on the pinion nut and pinion snout. Afterwards, remove the nut, remove the yoke, and replace the seal. When you put everything back together, HAND TIGHTEN the nut until the alignment marks line up. Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the nut until the alignment mark on the nut is just passed the alignment mark on the pinion snout. Don't forget the red thread locker, and it wouldn't hurt to stake the pinion nut as well.
When replacing a pinion seal you must first put alignment marks on the pinion nut and pinion snout. Afterwards, remove the nut, remove the yoke, and replace the seal. When you put everything back together, HAND TIGHTEN the nut until the alignment marks line up. Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the nut until the alignment mark on the nut is just passed the alignment mark on the pinion snout. Don't forget the red thread locker, and it wouldn't hurt to stake the pinion nut as well.
Thanks for the input. When you say "just past", I picture having the line with a sharpie misaligned so its not the outside edge linining up with the inside edge of the other mark, or is that not enough? Not sure what you mean by stake the pinion nut...
Thanks for the input. When you say "just past", I picture having the line with a sharpie misaligned so its not the outside edge linining up with the inside edge of the other mark, or is that not enough? Not sure what you mean by stake the pinion nut...
take a sharp punch and "stake" the pinion nut to distort the nut and tighten the threads together so they are less likely to back off. My definition of "just past" was the same as yours.
So, I came back at it to take the differential out, and after several attempts with a crow bar, sockets, straps, hammers+wood, I could not figure it out.
I put the Pinion Nut on and tightened that up, (putting a rag in the pinion/ring mesh to lock it) and it popped out. Note that the carrier bolts were out. It popped out halfway and I pried it out the rest of the way!
It’s safe to say that my Locking Carrier failed, which messed up the Pinion severely, and potentially some bearings. Yay I get a full rebuild. Lucky me.
If anybody has advice for what to watch out for while installing all the shims, bearings, and seals and of course the pinion and ring gear, I would greatly appreciate it.
I bought a Ring and Pinion kit off Amazon. It’s nothing performance, but it’ll hold me for the next year at least.
New question. I have no idea if anyone will respond, but I am planning on getting the new pinion and ring all set in and aligned correctly. I believe the default pinion shim for a 3.73 (or 4.10 in my case) is 0.035in or so. I’m going with that, and will play around with the side shims.
my question is once I put it back together, assuming the alignment w/ paint on the ring gear is all clear, and the backlash is around 0.006-0.010 in, once I start driving will there be any warning signs 50 miles down the road if it’s not good enough? I don’t want to drive and then have a few hundred dollars down the drain.
just trying to cover my bases.
thanks for the responses years later
Axle in question is GM 10 bolt (8.5/8.6inch) and with a 4.10 gear ratio. Thanks for the help if possible!
have a great day! Ready to put together, front carrier is the new guy, the back left is the old screwed over one, right one is from the donor
There is really no default shim but the OEM pinion shim is a good starting point and may or may not be 100% correct. Yes if you hit all the spec numbers and the paint looks good and no strange noises I'd say job well done.
There is really no default shim but the OEM pinion shim is a good starting point and may or may not be 100% correct. Yes if you hit all the spec numbers and the paint looks good and no strange noises I'd say job well done.
Okay that’s what I was thinking. I’m always paranoid that something is gonna mess up for some reason. I wish I could get the OEM pinion shim, but man I cannot seem to get it out without a press. Augh haha
You'll need a press to get the new bearings on the new pinion. Do you have a different way you're planning on doing that? Freezing pinion and heating bearings?
You'll need a press to get the new bearings on the new pinion. Do you have a different way you're planning on doing that? Freezing pinion and heating bearings?
I have a makeshift press, but it’s enough to press off 17 years of a pinion. I was thinking freezing the pinion and heating the bearings so yes
02-27-2021, 01:22 AM
