axisT6

iTrader: (3)

4.10 gears in my experience have always set up well with an 0.035" - 0.037" shim. Try to get closer to 0.037" if you can. If you bought gears off Amazon, they will likely be 5 cut so lash spec is 0.006" - 0.010". Do you have the special tools needed for this work?

Also, did you read the how-to? I detailed how to get the diff out:

"Now you are ready to remove the differential. You will not be able grab it and pull it out with your bare hands. Get a 3/4" box end wrench and place it on one of the ring gear bolts. Next, turn the pinion until the wrench contacts the top of the axle housing. Turn the pinion more and the differential will be forced out of the housing. Now is where you can grab it and remove it. If it is still tight, use a pry bar or other kind of lever."

mikerlew

Hello! Thanks for answering. This helps me a lot! I can safely say I have mastered putting the carrier in/out now, and overall I think I know what I am doing compared to last month or April. It’s a long project but it’s my first. I went with stock GM spec of 0.034”ish shim for the pinion, and obviously it was too short. I kept moving up a bit and currently am at 0.042” which is now too thick. So that sweet spot of 0.037” sounds great. I am going to do that today, maybe- I can seal it all up by next week!
min regards to the tools, I didn’t have any tools when I started, but I think I have everything now. Dial indicator, in-ibs tool, sockets, solid crush sleeve spacer, etc. I don’t have a press, so I’m going to use heat and cold to put the pinion together for the final set up, if I get it wrong- we’ll I’ll be up a creek for a bit, but I’ll figure it out.

Thanks AxisT6, if you have any additional wisdom for 4.10 gears, and also for torquing the pinion but down, I’d be very grateful!
Have a good day y’all

axisT6

iTrader: (3)

So you are using a crush sleeve eliminator? If so, measure your old crush sleeve. That will be your starting thickness. Without the seal installed installed you will need to tighten the pinion nut to 250 lb. ft. and check pinion preload. Spec is 14-19 in. lb. Please run a pattern and post pictures of the coast and drive side.

Did you make set-up bearings at all?

mikerlew

I am using a crush sleeve eliminator, I figured it’s the best I can do since I don’t have the capacity to crush the crush sleeve with something like 300-400 pounds haha.

I thought it was 14-19in Ibs for used bearings, or 20-25 for new? Either way, I’ll figure it out today. I’ll run a pattern and send the photos in a couple hours.

I did make set up bearings, I used the same part number and brand as OEM and just ground out the middle.
Thanks Again

mikerlew

AxisT6, I do have a question while I have you. So the crush sleeve (or eliminator) obviously needs to be the right size to get the proper preload. If I go by the same thickness as the old crush sleeve, then there is no way I can get it to 14-19 in/Ibs, (well I’m sure I can if I get a mechanic out here with the right tool)
BUT. It’s a big but, but if I get one that’s about 0.010-13” thinner, I can get the proper preload. I am under the impression that this would work. What’s your thoughts?

I’ll also note that, I know the bearings need to be seated in their races, but with the current thickness of the crush sleeve eliminator, I can’t get them to seat well.
Anyhow, I’ll torque it down with the shorter size and send over a photo of the gear pattern.

axisT6

iTrader: (3)

14-19 is for new bearings on the 8.6. I would recommend buying a press (useful to have) or finding a place to press the bearings on the pinion. How did you get you the carrier bearings on?

mikerlew

Okay. Been trying to find one at a reasonable price, but they all get snatched up! That’ll be my next move if I can’t get this to work.

I didn’t put the carrier bearings on, I found a carrier with bearings that was in great condition, so I’ve been using those.

mikerlew

Alrighty I am back. I played with the sleeve eliminator to get a decent balance between preload and torque, I’ll play with it more, my compressor is acting up, so this is fun.

anyways. Current Pinion Shim is at 0.035”, It was at 0.037” before, and I needed to take some away. But now… I need to do near maybe 0.033”? We’ll see

based on what I see, gear patter shows to move pinion CLOSER to ring gear, but only by like 0.001”.



Drive Side, which actually looks decently centered, but more towards the heel.

Coast side, which is in the center, not prefect yet. Marking shows towards the Toe.

Side view of both drive and coast side.

Top view of teeth. It actually looks centered decently, although on the other side of the teeth, it looks slightly less promising…

Other side of ring, the markings are WAY out of whack from what the prior showed. I might have it crooked?? I’ll take it out and try again

mikerlew

I have no life here, but here’s what happened after I adjusted the Pinion Shim

So today it started at 0.037”- Pinion Too Deep
Then I adjusted it for 0.035”- Pinion Too Deep
Then I adjusted it for 0.033”- Pinion Too Deep

So next I might move to 0.031”, but I will add that every time I get closer, for the most part, the markings are getting closer to the center, which is Ideal.



Both in the middle-ish, but obviously not close enough. Let’s try 0.031” now!

mikerlew

Okay so I adjusted the pinion depth from 0.037” to 0.035”,0.033”,0.031” and have finally got to the all time low of 0.029”. I looked at the physics of it and what GM spec usually is, and thought “no way”

Alas though, I set it up, and it appears that I am pretty decently close. It’s close enough I am satisfied. Now I have to do the stupid “final set up” haha

anyways, here’s the photos of my final gear marking. (I also adjusted backlash to 0.008” so it’s right in line)



Markings are a bit inconsistent, so maybe I might go down to 0.028”, but the markings seems to be in the middle. (I watched lines where I saw the ends of the paint were meshed)

Okay so on this side it looked a little more wonky, but still seems to be in the middle. I might try again with thinner paint so it shows easier.