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Realistic built 4l60E capabilities

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Old 08-23-2016 | 01:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Choda
^^^ i agree, i barely every let the truck down shift while i go WOT. I always manually down shift before hammering down then move the shifter up into 3 and let the truck shift as it should.

Im hard on my truck but I know when and how to be. Plus its built to take it. I have all the goods for a decent truck build.
I'm more in the camp of.. I want to be an idiot at all times and forget about consequences, hence me going 4l80e
Old 08-23-2016 | 07:56 PM
  #22  
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I had inquired about going with a built 60e, for me it was the cost. For a built 60e from a company I bought my previous 60e from, the trans was almost 4500, just the trans. A converter would be another 900 or so.
This is why I'm going to go with the 80 (eventually) plus, like tqui I want to be an idiot without a worry, haha.
Old 09-10-2016 | 03:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by megabuddys
It takes skill to build a 60 correctly. And when you do you have to drive it smart. Anyone can throw an 80 together because it was meant to hold more power. It's the weight that kills the 4l60. You can put a ton of power to them in a lighter vehicle. My rig weighs 4500 with me in it, and I can't believe this 4l60 is holding up. I probably have $2500 in it. I build them myself. 4wd,4 drag radials, and over 1k hp crank. It's not magical. It's the right selection of parts and driving it smart. It drives and shifts like a stock vehicle when driven normally too. I hate it when everyone says put an 80 in it. They are not cheap at all. The converters are crazy expensive. For a heavy truck the 80 is the way to go. I have an 80 for my set up because it's not if,the 60 will fail, it's when. But 700 hp should be no sweat for a 60 and be reliable. If it fails get a different builder or quit driving it like an idiot.
You sir, are bang on. Driving habits and tuning both play big parts in 60e failure.
Old 09-11-2016 | 11:40 PM
  #24  
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Great news, it wasn't if it was when. ... I broke my 4l60e. 4wd launch spraying it right out of the hole with 10 lbs of boost at the track. LOL. Something in the planetaries broke, caused it to lock up solid and in turn the rear spider gears broke in the Yukon duragrip. FML. I did a ford 8.8 rear end swap and then learned the trans was at fault for why the spider gears split in the gm 8.5 with the duragrip limited slip. Heck everything works till you hit second.

Case in point. .. I Drove it like an idiot. don't do what I did. So it didn't burn up, the hard parts just couldn't handle that raw torque. It made 900ft lbs of torque with a 80 shot on it. No input shaft or output failure of which is impressive. Cryo treating does wonders.
Old 09-12-2016 | 09:41 AM
  #25  
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^^^ hot damn.

Mine blew up too. Transbuilderguy is fixing it now.
Old 09-14-2016 | 08:29 PM
  #26  
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I have no doubt a 60e would last for years behind a mildly built motor. Seems like once boost is added to the equation though, it is more likely that the 60e will not last as long.

I like "spirited driving" better than "driving like an idiot", hahaha.

mega,
Do you have a build thread on your Blazer?

Choda,
What caused the explosion?
Old 09-15-2016 | 12:44 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tig
I have no doubt a 60e would last for years behind a mildly built motor. Seems like once boost is added to the equation though, it is more likely that the 60e will not last as long.

I like "spirited driving" better than "driving like an idiot", hahaha.

mega,
Do you have a build thread on your Blazer?

Choda,
What caused the explosion?
I had two that tried behind a 5.7 Vortec and it killed both.
Old 09-15-2016 | 04:50 AM
  #28  
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Tig- no build thread.

My 60e held up to 20lbs of boost, it was the added torque from the small nitrous hit that killed it. I knew it would fail eventually. It made me chuckle that it held up for as long as it did. A 2wd car that's light I bet you could run 1200hp through one, and have it last If it was built right. Weight is the killer.
Old 09-16-2016 | 10:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by megabuddys
Tig- no build thread.

My 60e held up to 20lbs of boost, it was the added torque from the small nitrous hit that killed it. I knew it would fail eventually. It made me chuckle that it held up for as long as it did. A 2wd car that's light I bet you could run 1200hp through one, and have it last If it was built right. Weight is the killer.
I will say what I have said about this many times. GM did not even feel the 4L60E would last in a 3/4 ton Express van with a 4.3 or 4.8 and used the 4L80E behind those weak stock engines in that application. My 4L60E case broke behind a mild 350 making ~350 hp and maybe 400 ft/lbs.
Old 09-24-2016 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by megabuddys
It takes skill to build a 60 correctly. And when you do you have to drive it smart. Anyone can throw an 80 together because it was meant to hold more power. It's the weight that kills the 4l60. You can put a ton of power to them in a lighter vehicle. My rig weighs 4500 with me in it, and I can't believe this 4l60 is holding up. I probably have $2500 in it. I build them myself. 4wd,4 drag radials, and over 1k hp crank. It's not magical. It's the right selection of parts and driving it smart. It drives and shifts like a stock vehicle when driven normally too. I hate it when everyone says put an 80 in it. They are not cheap at all. The converters are crazy expensive. For a heavy truck the 80 is the way to go. I have an 80 for my set up because it's not if,the 60 will fail, it's when. But 700 hp should be no sweat for a 60 and be reliable. If it fails get a different builder or quit driving it like an idiot.
Excellent post!
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