Rear Detroit TT Install
12-31-2006, 01:49 PM
#1
Rear Detroit TT Install
Guys,
Within the next few weeks I am going to try and install my first set of gears and carrier. OEM 4.10's with a Detroit TrueTrac. I've bought a complete NOS front differential with 4.10's to cover the front end gear swap.
I am going to time it with a suspension drop. Lower control arms up front and hanger shackle change in the rear.
I am thinking that since this is my first install and since I'll be deep into the rear suspension that I will just pull the whole rearend and get it out from under the truck to help with the setup. Am I
? Should I just leave it in the truck and do it there? I don't have a lift. Will be doing it on the garage floor.
Within the next few weeks I am going to try and install my first set of gears and carrier. OEM 4.10's with a Detroit TrueTrac. I've bought a complete NOS front differential with 4.10's to cover the front end gear swap.
I am going to time it with a suspension drop. Lower control arms up front and hanger shackle change in the rear.
I am thinking that since this is my first install and since I'll be deep into the rear suspension that I will just pull the whole rearend and get it out from under the truck to help with the setup. Am I
? Should I just leave it in the truck and do it there? I don't have a lift. Will be doing it on the garage floor.
12-31-2006, 05:14 PM
#2
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You might want to shoot AxisT6 a PM for any install tips and info. As he is the rearend guru around my area and really knows his stuff. With OEM (AAM) 4.10's the backlash is very tight (3-6 thousandths) and will be much harder to install than a quality aftermarket gear such as Yukon. Just something to consider since this is you first install.
Last edited by SlvrSierra4.8; 12-31-2006 at 05:23 PM.
12-31-2006, 06:45 PM
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Think about your driveshaft balance, and maybe a safety loop. That's what I'm going to do. The factory balance on the truck shaft leaves alot on the table. I'm going to go with either a chrome-moly, or aluminum shaft with 1350 universals, and a highspeed balance. I bought a loop today at Summit, just have to modify it to fit on my truck. The driveline on our trucks is pretty good, already, but with a good driveshaft with 1350 universals, it should never give you problems. If you decide to go that way, look into getting a pinion yoke for 1350's while you have everything apart. Maybe some c-clip eliminators, too. Man.........it just keeps going on, and on! IT NEVER ENDS!!!!
12-31-2006, 07:20 PM
#6
Originally Posted by 4.8T
i did both my detroit installs with truck on jack stands and rearend in place. i recomend removeing the sparetire and tire hanger. because it will **** you off when you nail your head on it. lol
Thanks for the tip... I'll drop the spare. Need to anyway. Its never been out from under it.
12-31-2006, 07:22 PM
#7
Originally Posted by wkdivr
Think about your driveshaft balance, and maybe a safety loop. That's what I'm going to do. The factory balance on the truck shaft leaves alot on the table. I'm going to go with either a chrome-moly, or aluminum shaft with 1350 universals, and a highspeed balance. I bought a loop today at Summit, just have to modify it to fit on my truck. The driveline on our trucks is pretty good, already, but with a good driveshaft with 1350 universals, it should never give you problems. If you decide to go that way, look into getting a pinion yoke for 1350's while you have everything apart. Maybe some c-clip eliminators, too. Man.........it just keeps going on, and on! IT NEVER ENDS!!!!
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12-31-2006, 08:30 PM
#8
Originally Posted by KySilverado
Looks like another dive under the truck.
Thanks for the tip... I'll drop the spare. Need to anyway. Its never been out from under it.
Thanks for the tip... I'll drop the spare. Need to anyway. Its never been out from under it.
the hanger only has like one bolt holding it on too. i leaned back and smacked my head on it. it came out quickly after that.
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