chris092183

iTrader: (1)

I just installed a new 5" aluminum driveshaft and rear end yoke from Inland Empire Driveline to my 10 bolt 8.625 8.6 rearend.
I obviously had to reset my pinion preload being that i was replacing the pinion yoke. I read somewhere on here that you don't have to remove the carrier to get proper pinion preload. All you have to do is remove the tires and set the preload from 18-20 in/lbs. Is that true? Anyway, I followed these directions and i now have a weird clunking clicking noise coming from my rearend. Any ideas on what went wrong? Is my preload set to tight or too loose? I installed these used gears not too long ago but I only had a whine upon decceleration, now I have this terrible noise. I only drove it to about 10 mph because I was afraid of ruining something. I couldn't find anything on here where someone replaced just a yoke and then saw a problem with noise.

I'm lost here

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

I think the preload is 18-20in/lbs like you said. I've always used 22... Only issue is, that value is on a new crush sleeve. You can't double torque the same crush sleeve like it's an ARP head bolt. Those crush sleeves are like TTY bolts, they are a one time use only. And it sounds like you have too much pinion preload now.

Unfortunately the solution now is to remove the carrier and pinion and replace the crush sleeve, and then use that torque value.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

So yout think that around 20 in/lbs is correct with not removing the carrier just like I did? Why do you say that the preload is too tight? By no means am I arguing I just don't understand. I have heard of some people reusing their crush sleeve, how do they get away with this? Are you insinuating that the crush sleeve is overcrushed? Hell It could be I just don't know how to tell.
I'm still a bit lost

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

If you reuse the crush sleeve, you need to remember that it has already been torqued down so you can't put any additional torque on it. When I want to keep the crush sleeve, I use a small chisel to make a mark on the pinion, nut, and yoke so they are all in a straight line. After removal and reinstallation, they should line back up so the crush sleeve still has the initial torque value, not 20+20 or whatever from ratcheting that thing back on there. Yes, the crush sleeve is overcrushed now. It will need to be replaced. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...making mistakes is the best way to learn, though.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

Crap so do you think I screwed up the pinion bearings?

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

No, it'll take a lot more than too much preload to mess up that bearing. Just replace the crush sleeve. You'll need to remove the bearing to get to the sleeve anyway, so you can check it out if you like.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

Damn it, I just sold my press too. I'll try to have t pressed on today and see what happens.

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

What I meant was the bearing will come out of the race. You don't actually have to remove it from the pinion, unless you do find that it is damaged.




When you put the nut back on the pinion, how did you check the torque value? Did you just slowly tighten it back up until it hit 20 in/lbs again?

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

Ok I got you. I forgot about the front bearing ease of placement. I was thinking of the rear bearing being pressed on.

To torque it to 20in/lbs. I took a pipe wrench to secure the yoke, then I tightened the pinion nut, periodically checking pinion preload about every 1/8 of a rotation till i acheived 20in/lbs.

BTW: I used a clicker style torque wrench. I recently read it's better to use the dial bar type instead but the first time I set my gears i didn't have any problems.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

I took the truck to the exhaust shop today. I have to edit what i previously said about the noise. It is more of a really loud whine or maybe that is just because I was driving faster. this noise still only happened upon deceleration. Is that still a crush sleeve?