i think eaton bought out detroit recently

 

alright.. I got the GU6 so that's the 3.42's.. are those decent? or should I upgrade them to 3.73's or 4.10's when I get my tru-trac in there..

and how bad will gas mileage be effected.

I'm not sure exactly how gear ratio's work but I know 3.42 would mean for every 3 turns of the drive shaft is 42 turns of the axels? or vice versa I'm not sure.. whcih ones for increasing low end power and which ones for highway..

is there one that's good for in the middle to improve both low and high?

I'm not sure how all this works..

 

it is not 3:42 its 3.42:1

personally id get 4.10s

 

what does all that mean?

3.42 vs 3.42:1?

and when you say "4.10's" do you actually mean 4.10:1?

 

yes all gear ratios are x.xx:1 so everybody just says x.xx instead of saying x.xx:1. kinda like saying stall instead of higher stalled torque converter

a gear ratio is just that a ratio. it must be in this form, a:b, with rear ends, "b"=1 (always) and "a" will vary, the higher the number, the "lower" the ratio

 

so a 3.42 would mean for every 3.42 spins of the driveshaft would mean..... 1 turn of the wheel axel?

so there fore the higher the value of A would mean the driveshaft would have to spin up faster or make more revolutions to rotate the wheel axels one time.


so a set of 3.73's as compared to 4.10's would be more optimal at increasing your low end acceleration correct?

so by me swapping 4.10's to replace my existing 3.42's would kill my bottom end but allow me to make faster highway passes?

 

nope other way around, 4.10s greatly increase low end and hurt highway fuel mileage because you are turning a higher rpm on the highway, but can help city fuel mileage because it doesnt take as much throttle or as many rpms to ge tthe same effect

 

I don't exactly understand how that works...

3.42:1 vs 4.10:1

A = rotations of driveshaft
B = rotation of wheel axel

THEREFORE the driveshaft would have to spin faster in order to get the vehicle moving. THEREBY lowering your low-end acceleration speed. I'm not trying to argue I'm just really trying to understand exactly how this works.

But basically what your saying is
3.42's = shitty low end acceleration/gas mileage and fast highway acceleration/good gas mileage
4.10's = fast low end accleration/good gas mileage and shitty highway acceleration/gas mileage

while 3.73's would sorta kinda meet in the middle?

 

yes 3.73s are a compromise

3.42s = poor low end acceleration/good gas mileage/good mid-range-topend acceleration

4.10s = great low end accleleration/not-so-great gas mileage/good mid-range-topend acceleration

A= rotations of wheels
B= rotations of driveshaft

for a 3.42:1 geared rear end for every 1 time the driveshaft turns the wheels turn 3.42 times

for a 4.10:1 geared rear end for every 1 time the driveshaft turns the wheels turn 4.10 times

 

so if I'm about to put in a stall.. and get a cam to take care of my highend..

I'd be best with the 3.73's...

Now back to the original questions on differentials.. I'm looking all over for the detroit tru-trac. All I'm finding (for 4-700$) are the internal parts. Would I have to buy the differential housing as well? Or is there a rebuild kit somewhere which would come with the housing the internals the whole 9 yards..

The carrier is the word that refers to everything correct?