Rear gears, who installed their own? Whatdabout Truetrac?
11-13-2012, 09:09 PM
#1
Rear gears, who installed their own? Whatdabout Truetrac?
Like it says, I wanna know who's done their own gear install?
If u did your own Truetrac install, I wanna know.
I can't stress this enuff, I want longevity & quiet!
What tools are needed?
How many hrs. to do a gear install?
How many hrs. for Truetrac only?
I gotta think a person can trim some time by doin both gears & diff, upgrade at same time, but how much?
How hard was / is it?
That said, would u do it again, pitfalls to avoid or tips / tricks?
If they're quiet, u can even mention gear brand u went w/., I want quiet, so OEM gears seem the only choice. Motive maybe.
I hadn't really considered it, but ...
I know of 3 places. Here's what I heard from 1 guy about a place I considered, they have a high employee turnover, I wouldn't take anything to them. Yet they've been 'round for yrs.
Another place, I visited some yrs. back to ask questions on cost, etc. has also been around forever. They're reputation is they do great work, cost alot, & when I went, if memory serves me, ignored me or were arrogant.
So, I called a 3rd place yesterday. I said I want gear install. He said even if I get OEM gears or aftermkt. gears, it's a luck of the draw on both (OEM, & aftermkt.) if they'll be quiet.
That scared me, I don't want noisy gears. I'll just keep my 3.42s if so.
I did find the following thread when I searched, but that was about it after checkin out a few others too.
It says avoid Richmond, & I heard that recently as well. Not sure why tho.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ential-349220/
If u did your own Truetrac install, I wanna know.
I can't stress this enuff, I want longevity & quiet!
What tools are needed?
How many hrs. to do a gear install?
How many hrs. for Truetrac only?
I gotta think a person can trim some time by doin both gears & diff, upgrade at same time, but how much?
How hard was / is it?
That said, would u do it again, pitfalls to avoid or tips / tricks?
If they're quiet, u can even mention gear brand u went w/., I want quiet, so OEM gears seem the only choice. Motive maybe.
I hadn't really considered it, but ...
I know of 3 places. Here's what I heard from 1 guy about a place I considered, they have a high employee turnover, I wouldn't take anything to them. Yet they've been 'round for yrs.
Another place, I visited some yrs. back to ask questions on cost, etc. has also been around forever. They're reputation is they do great work, cost alot, & when I went, if memory serves me, ignored me or were arrogant.
So, I called a 3rd place yesterday. I said I want gear install. He said even if I get OEM gears or aftermkt. gears, it's a luck of the draw on both (OEM, & aftermkt.) if they'll be quiet.
That scared me, I don't want noisy gears. I'll just keep my 3.42s if so.
I did find the following thread when I searched, but that was about it after checkin out a few others too.
It says avoid Richmond, & I heard that recently as well. Not sure why tho.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ential-349220/
11-13-2012, 10:04 PM
#2
This thread here got me thinkin of 3.73s after a few mentioned they picked up mileage in city, which is where most of my drivin is done. While "more" of anything usually consumes more gas, I get the "bigger lever" concept.
If it went down maybe .5 MPG, I might could deal, if it goes up, I'll be ecstatic.
More power, & efficient, who wouldn't be?
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...er-mpg-510226/
If it went down maybe .5 MPG, I might could deal, if it goes up, I'll be ecstatic.
More power, & efficient, who wouldn't be?
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...er-mpg-510226/
11-13-2012, 10:33 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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If u don't have any experience doing rear end work, or know someone who does, i wouldn't recommend trying to learn your first time, especially if u want it quiet. You will need bearing pullers and knowledge of how to read and adjust gear patterns. That being said, if u have a good matched gear set you shouldn't have any problem with noise, unless they are improperly installed.
11-13-2012, 11:52 PM
#4
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My method. And I've done 30+.
First put your carrier in the freezer. Helps contract and let the ring gear slide on easy..
Jack the truck up, take the tires, caliper, rotors or drums off.
Unbolt the drive shaft.
Get a drain pan and take the rear cover off-13mm.
On the right side of the carrier locate the 8mm bolt, use a good 8mm socket and remove the bolt.
Now pull your cross pin out.
Push both axles in, use a magnet to pull your c-clips out.
Pull your axles out.
Using a 5/8 socket take out the 4 bolts holding the carrier in. Keep those two brackets in the same orientation, put the right in the right side left on the left, along with the shims you pulled out, just keep track of left and right side.
Now you might have to use prybar or big screw driver and pull your differential out.
Take off your pinion nut, don't know the size off the top of my head.
Use a hammer and beat the yolk off.
Put your pinion nut back on to not ruin the threads and hammer te pinion out.
Using a bearing seperator remove the big bearing on the pinion to re-use the factory pinion shim.
Get the new pinion, install old factory pinion shim, using a press, press the new bearing back on the pinion. Also re-use the same crush sleeve off the old pinion.
Using a seal puller, pull out the old pinion seal, smaller pinion bearing will fall out.
Now beat out the old races out of the housing using a long punch and hammer.
Install both new races, smaller pinion bearing and new pinion seal.
Now put the pinion back in, you'll have to put the yolk on as far as you can and put the nut on with out the washer to get it ran up. Once you get it ran up far enough put the washer back on along with locktite. You'll run the nut up to where you take all the slack out of the pinion. If you get it too tight at first, back the nut off and take a hammer a s beat on the pinion like your taking it out and on the yolk like you where taking it off earlier to take up the slack, after that you'll notice it'll loosen up. Then just keep bumping it with your impact until it spins freely but has a little drag to it.
Press on the side bearings on your differential, make sure they are pressed on fully.
Install the ring gear, use locktite and torque to spec.
Now the fun part. You'll need a micrometer, pen and paper and patience.
Mic each side shim when you pulled out your differential. Add those together and you'll always way keep that figure when you add or subtract shims.
Now just try the factory shims and see if it will even go and then start added or subtracting to move the differential over. I alway try for .006-.008 backlash with a dial indicator with your 4 bolts torqued down.
Once that's done to back and put the axles and everything back in.
I'm sure I've prolly forgotten something, it's late, I'm tired, and my hands are bout dead after typing this on my iPhone.
First put your carrier in the freezer. Helps contract and let the ring gear slide on easy..
Jack the truck up, take the tires, caliper, rotors or drums off.
Unbolt the drive shaft.
Get a drain pan and take the rear cover off-13mm.
On the right side of the carrier locate the 8mm bolt, use a good 8mm socket and remove the bolt.
Now pull your cross pin out.
Push both axles in, use a magnet to pull your c-clips out.
Pull your axles out.
Using a 5/8 socket take out the 4 bolts holding the carrier in. Keep those two brackets in the same orientation, put the right in the right side left on the left, along with the shims you pulled out, just keep track of left and right side.
Now you might have to use prybar or big screw driver and pull your differential out.
Take off your pinion nut, don't know the size off the top of my head.
Use a hammer and beat the yolk off.
Put your pinion nut back on to not ruin the threads and hammer te pinion out.
Using a bearing seperator remove the big bearing on the pinion to re-use the factory pinion shim.
Get the new pinion, install old factory pinion shim, using a press, press the new bearing back on the pinion. Also re-use the same crush sleeve off the old pinion.
Using a seal puller, pull out the old pinion seal, smaller pinion bearing will fall out.
Now beat out the old races out of the housing using a long punch and hammer.
Install both new races, smaller pinion bearing and new pinion seal.
Now put the pinion back in, you'll have to put the yolk on as far as you can and put the nut on with out the washer to get it ran up. Once you get it ran up far enough put the washer back on along with locktite. You'll run the nut up to where you take all the slack out of the pinion. If you get it too tight at first, back the nut off and take a hammer a s beat on the pinion like your taking it out and on the yolk like you where taking it off earlier to take up the slack, after that you'll notice it'll loosen up. Then just keep bumping it with your impact until it spins freely but has a little drag to it.
Press on the side bearings on your differential, make sure they are pressed on fully.
Install the ring gear, use locktite and torque to spec.
Now the fun part. You'll need a micrometer, pen and paper and patience.
Mic each side shim when you pulled out your differential. Add those together and you'll always way keep that figure when you add or subtract shims.
Now just try the factory shims and see if it will even go and then start added or subtracting to move the differential over. I alway try for .006-.008 backlash with a dial indicator with your 4 bolts torqued down.
Once that's done to back and put the axles and everything back in.
I'm sure I've prolly forgotten something, it's late, I'm tired, and my hands are bout dead after typing this on my iPhone.
11-14-2012, 01:30 AM
#6
Motive gears in my Avalanche and they whine freaking big time!
I did the installation of 3.73 in my Silverado, bought all the tools to do the job which was a pretty big cost. End play indicator, torque wrench, another torque wrench, bearing puller for axle shafts, press...Frukk shops, learn to do your own work and it will pay for itself.
Use shims rather than crush sleeves, much easier.
I did the installation of 3.73 in my Silverado, bought all the tools to do the job which was a pretty big cost. End play indicator, torque wrench, another torque wrench, bearing puller for axle shafts, press...Frukk shops, learn to do your own work and it will pay for itself.
Use shims rather than crush sleeves, much easier.
11-14-2012, 02:07 AM
#7
Baltimore Whore
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Had a buddy do mine that has set up rears forever. Had the complete job done in about 2 hours. My biggest problem was getting the bearings out. Took the shims from the left side and swapped them to right and the ones from the right in the left. It dialed in almost perfect. Hell he didn't even ink the gears, set the depth to about 6 or 8k (iirc) cranked on the crush sleeve and they are silent. But **** he has prob done 400 of these damn things. If you have never done it i would advise someone there with you who has. This was a tru trac and yukons. No real special tools other the gauges. I do not recall using a puller on anything, but there is more then one way to skin a cat.
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11-14-2012, 09:48 AM
#10
Me and a buddy did my USA standard 4.56's and valuetrac at the same time. Went in as smooth as dirt track racer 81 described. Maybe 1 1/2 hours tops. My buddy that did mine has set up several rearends over the years and grew up racing dirt cars and drag racing with all kinds of gear swaps, 9 inch, ford 8.8, f body 10 bolt, etc. He rarely uses a dial caliper or the pattern paint, he usually just feels it by hand. Mine are dead silent and have about 5,500 hard miles on them. Still on the original install valvoline gear lube ftw!