Rear gears, who installed their own? Whatdabout Truetrac?
11-14-2012, 11:07 AM
#13
I did my 4.56's and Truetrac at the same time w/o any previous gear experience. Took me two days but I took my sweet *** time, and was missing tools, etc. The gears are USA Standard and are dead silent. They whined the tiniest bit at first but are silent now.
11-14-2012, 04:35 PM
#14
My method. And I've done 30+.
First put your carrier in the freezer. Helps contract and let the ring gear slide on easy..
Jack the truck up, take the tires, caliper, rotors or drums off.
Unbolt the drive shaft.
Get a drain pan and take the rear cover off-13mm.
On the right side of the carrier locate the 8mm bolt, use a good 8mm socket and remove the bolt.
Now pull your cross pin out.
Push both axles in, use a magnet to pull your c-clips out.
Pull your axles out.
Using a 5/8 socket take out the 4 bolts holding the carrier in. Keep those two brackets in the same orientation, put the right in the right side left on the left, along with the shims you pulled out, just keep track of left and right side.
Now you might have to use prybar or big screw driver and pull your differential out.
Take off your pinion nut, don't know the size off the top of my head.
Use a hammer and beat the yolk off.
Put your pinion nut back on to not ruin the threads and hammer te pinion out.
Using a bearing seperator remove the big bearing on the pinion to re-use the factory pinion shim.
Get the new pinion, install old factory pinion shim, using a press, press the new bearing back on the pinion. Also re-use the same crush sleeve off the old pinion.
Using a seal puller, pull out the old pinion seal, smaller pinion bearing will fall out.
Now beat out the old races out of the housing using a long punch and hammer.
Install both new races, smaller pinion bearing and new pinion seal.
Now put the pinion back in, you'll have to put the yolk on as far as you can and put the nut on with out the washer to get it ran up. Once you get it ran up far enough put the washer back on along with locktite. You'll run the nut up to where you take all the slack out of the pinion. If you get it too tight at first, back the nut off and take a hammer a s beat on the pinion like your taking it out and on the yolk like you where taking it off earlier to take up the slack, after that you'll notice it'll loosen up. Then just keep bumping it with your impact until it spins freely but has a little drag to it.
Press on the side bearings on your differential, make sure they are pressed on fully.
Install the ring gear, use locktite and torque to spec.
Now the fun part. You'll need a micrometer, pen and paper and patience.
Mic each side shim when you pulled out your differential. Add those together and you'll always way keep that figure when you add or subtract shims.
Now just try the factory shims and see if it will even go and then start added or subtracting to move the differential over. I alway try for .006-.008 backlash with a dial indicator with your 4 bolts torqued down.
Once that's done to back and put the axles and everything back in.
I'm sure I've prolly forgotten something, it's late, I'm tired, and my hands are bout dead after typing this on my iPhone.
First put your carrier in the freezer. Helps contract and let the ring gear slide on easy..
Jack the truck up, take the tires, caliper, rotors or drums off.
Unbolt the drive shaft.
Get a drain pan and take the rear cover off-13mm.
On the right side of the carrier locate the 8mm bolt, use a good 8mm socket and remove the bolt.
Now pull your cross pin out.
Push both axles in, use a magnet to pull your c-clips out.
Pull your axles out.
Using a 5/8 socket take out the 4 bolts holding the carrier in. Keep those two brackets in the same orientation, put the right in the right side left on the left, along with the shims you pulled out, just keep track of left and right side.
Now you might have to use prybar or big screw driver and pull your differential out.
Take off your pinion nut, don't know the size off the top of my head.
Use a hammer and beat the yolk off.
Put your pinion nut back on to not ruin the threads and hammer te pinion out.
Using a bearing seperator remove the big bearing on the pinion to re-use the factory pinion shim.
Get the new pinion, install old factory pinion shim, using a press, press the new bearing back on the pinion. Also re-use the same crush sleeve off the old pinion.
Using a seal puller, pull out the old pinion seal, smaller pinion bearing will fall out.
Now beat out the old races out of the housing using a long punch and hammer.
Install both new races, smaller pinion bearing and new pinion seal.
Now put the pinion back in, you'll have to put the yolk on as far as you can and put the nut on with out the washer to get it ran up. Once you get it ran up far enough put the washer back on along with locktite. You'll run the nut up to where you take all the slack out of the pinion. If you get it too tight at first, back the nut off and take a hammer a s beat on the pinion like your taking it out and on the yolk like you where taking it off earlier to take up the slack, after that you'll notice it'll loosen up. Then just keep bumping it with your impact until it spins freely but has a little drag to it.
Press on the side bearings on your differential, make sure they are pressed on fully.
Install the ring gear, use locktite and torque to spec.
Now the fun part. You'll need a micrometer, pen and paper and patience.
Mic each side shim when you pulled out your differential. Add those together and you'll always way keep that figure when you add or subtract shims.
Now just try the factory shims and see if it will even go and then start added or subtracting to move the differential over. I alway try for .006-.008 backlash with a dial indicator with your 4 bolts torqued down.
Once that's done to back and put the axles and everything back in.
I'm sure I've prolly forgotten something, it's late, I'm tired, and my hands are bout dead after typing this on my iPhone.
I wasn't expectin somethin that nice & detailed, I could almost go off that & not even read a manual.
But now I have to to find pinion nut size, u bum.
I figured u maybe did a few, like 5, now 30+. Wow.
I hi lited a few things -
the press thing, u mean a big hyd. 10-30 ton press right? I'd need to take to a shop. That seal puller, like used yrs. ago for removin dust cover on rotor hub?
I thought I'd seen u can get prettty close if reusing shims where they were previously, ditto on crush sleeve reuse.
Motive gears in my Avalanche and they whine freaking big time!
I did the installation of 3.73 in my Silverado, bought all the tools to do the job which was a pretty big cost. End play indicator, torque wrench, another torque wrench, bearing puller for axle shafts, press...Frukk shops, learn to do your own work and it will pay for itself.
Use shims rather than crush sleeves, much easier.
I did the installation of 3.73 in my Silverado, bought all the tools to do the job which was a pretty big cost. End play indicator, torque wrench, another torque wrench, bearing puller for axle shafts, press...Frukk shops, learn to do your own work and it will pay for itself.
Use shims rather than crush sleeves, much easier.
nonni, I knew AAM gears are OEM. I shoulda said it's OEM (AAM) or Motive as my 2nd choice. Motive used to supply GM, not sure why they don't anymore, whether it was a Q.C. issue or just that they lost the contract. Anyone know?
Had a buddy do mine that has set up rears forever. Had the complete job done in about 2 hours. My biggest problem was getting the bearings out. Took the shims from the left side and swapped them to right and the ones from the right in the left. It dialed in almost perfect. Hell he didn't even ink the gears, set the depth to about 6 or 8k (iirc) cranked on the crush sleeve and they are silent. But **** he has prob done 400 of these damn things. If you have never done it i would advise someone there with you who has. This was a tru trac and yukons. No real special tools other the gauges. I do not recall using a puller on anything, but there is more then one way to skin a cat.
If I'm doin em, my lack of experience... u bet I won't do w/o a dial or pattern paint. U did remind me tho, what is everyone doin for fluid? Synthetic or dino. oil w/. friction modifier (or additive)?
And how often does everyone change fluid? Next yr., I hope to start goin to track 1/ month. Slicks are on the agenda. So should that change intervals that drastic?
It's my DD, city or city mix, but I give the truck a workout, I'm not gonna lie.
If I do this, I'll try to find someone that knows rears & gear setup.
That said, Tyler, if I take a road trip next spring w/. some 3.73s, install kit, Truetrac, do u like beer?
I'd ask John, but since it's his buddy, Mangled would just drink all the beer.
Last edited by fastnblu; 11-14-2012 at 04:41 PM.
11-14-2012, 06:33 PM
#17
Done tons of gears in as many different axles as you can think of. It's all basically the same concept.
I use the US Standard gears and have never had a set make noise. I've done multiple dozens myself.... Just take your time, drink a lot, use hammers, and have fun!
I use the US Standard gears and have never had a set make noise. I've done multiple dozens myself.... Just take your time, drink a lot, use hammers, and have fun!
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