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Rearends. Some Q's

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Old 07-06-2008, 04:26 PM
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Default Rearends. Some Q's

Here's the deal. Ya, I'm eventally goin Radix. I thought it'd be in by 50k miles, but money is tight, so I can't spring for the FLT I want that's delaying the S/C install. For now, tho, I just can't pop for a Trutrac either...yet. In the meantime, I have 49800 miles.

Who has changed their rearend lube & w/ what brand/ weight? What mileage are most doin this at?

-Specify how many pints (or qts) needed?
-Are y'all using a friction additive? How much do u add too?

*Q of the day:I have a TA girdle for my 89 c1500 that I never installed. Can I just throw it on my 04, or do they use a different 10 bolt cover design?

Would it be worth it to throw in some Royal Purple Synthetic now ( w/ or w/o friction additive) or wait til I install Trutrac? Trutrac probably goin in next year.
Old 07-06-2008, 06:32 PM
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You will need friction modifier only for clutch type diffs, the TruTrac will not need any. At the cost of Synthetic gear oil I'd say just wait until you are ready for the swap.
Old 07-07-2008, 12:27 PM
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How many pts. are needed? I want to have to ready to go. Won't I need some RTV or just use the paper gasket to seal?

Will the T/A cover work from the older truck or will I need to buy another?
Old 07-11-2008, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
How many pts. are needed? I want to have to ready to go. Won't I need some RTV or just use the paper gasket to seal?

Will the T/A cover work from the older truck or will I need to buy another?
The TA cover will work fine.
Old 07-13-2008, 08:33 PM
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-What tools would I need to install a TruTrac?

-How much would a unit cost itself?
-What other parts are needed?
-How hard to do or what's the hardest part?

If I don't do myself. For those that have had done, how much $ to have done?

Last edited by fastnblu; 07-13-2008 at 08:53 PM. Reason: $ ?
Old 07-13-2008, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
-What tools would I need to install a TruTrac?

-How much would a unit cost itself?
-What other parts are needed?
-How hard to do or what's the hardest part?

If I don't do myself. For those that have had done, how much $ to have done?
Tools:

Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base
Hammer
Punch with a wide tip
5/8" Socket (Diff Bearing Cap Bolts)
3/4" Wrench (Used to easily remove diff from the housing)
13mm socket (Diff Cover Bolts)
18mm socket (rear brake caliper bolts)
11mm socket (pinion yoke bolts)
8 mm socket (diff pin lock bolt)
3/4" socket (ring gear bolts)
Red Thread Locker
Snapring Pliers (for the true trac)


You will also need a means to press new bearings on the true trac. A press is preferred for this.

The install is not hard. Go to ringpinion.com and download the yukon gear install manual. Your rear end uses preload shims, so you will definitely want to read the section that talks about that. A tip for removing the differential from the housing is to place the 3/4" wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and turn the pinion until the wrench contacts the top of the housing. Continue to turn the pinion and the diff will work itself out.

You will spend around $400 for the True Trac. You will also need new ring gear bolts and preload shims.
Old 07-14-2008, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by axisT6
Tools:

Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base
Hammer
Punch with a wide tip
5/8" Socket (Diff Bearing Cap Bolts)
3/4" Wrench (Used to easily remove diff from the housing)
13mm socket (Diff Cover Bolts)
18mm socket (rear brake caliper bolts)
11mm socket (pinion yoke bolts)
8 mm socket (diff pin lock bolt)
3/4" socket (ring gear bolts)
Red Thread Locker
Snapring Pliers (for the true trac)


You will also need a means to press new bearings on the true trac. A press is preferred for this.

The install is not hard. Go to ringpinion.com and download the yukon gear install manual. Your rear end uses preload shims, so you will definitely want to read the section that talks about that. A tip for removing the differential from the housing is to place the 3/4" wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and turn the pinion until the wrench contacts the top of the housing. Continue to turn the pinion and the diff will work itself out.

You will spend around $400 for the True Trac. You will also need new ring gear bolts and preload shims.
The only thing I'm missing is the dial indicator & base. But my bro is a machinist, so I think he has em.

Snap ring pliers are needed for Trutrac? I have em.

Having bearings pressed on should cost ~$35?

Last edited by fastnblu; 07-14-2008 at 06:48 PM. Reason: OOPS:Pressed on, how much for labor?
Old 07-14-2008, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
Press should cost ~$35?
LOL. I am talking about a Hydraulic Press that you would find at Harbor Freight or Northern Tool.

You can get a 12 ton shop press for $99-$150. They are worth it.
Old 07-14-2008, 04:37 PM
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I put Amsoil in my stock rearend. I think it took just under 3 quarts but you can check on there web site. The Amsoil is designed to NOT need a friction multiplier. I put it in my rear diff and so did my buddy. We have both been very happy with it. It locks smoother and faster.
Old 07-14-2008, 07:04 PM
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AxisT6, my bad. I had a distraction, chirpin in my ear. I meant to say how much to have bearings pressed on by a shop?

I was pretty sure u meant the type of press that stands on a floor.

-Ring gear bolts I would imagine don't cost all that much, but IDK. They're holdin something important together.

-Shims? Do u just order a shim pack or whatever it's called. Do they come in different sizes?

-Would a installation kit of some kind be needed?

I'm unsure on all parts needed, the tools side doesn't worry me. Other than shop press.

I know it's crucial to have proper gear contact. I just want to make sure if I venture into the realm of rearends I'm not in the middle of a job, & Oh ****! I need this or that. This is new ground, & I might tackle it if it's not too bad.

-If I elect to have someone do a Trutrac install, start-finish, how much in total would I be lookin at?

Thanks for all the help.
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