stone150

iTrader: (2)

ok i need to replace my filter tomorrow or sat and i am not paying $90 to have it done, what do i need other than the filter, new seal and fluids? i read my manual and it sas i need to unbolt the heat shield on the pass side and the shift linkage onthe driver side. anything else? how long about should this take me? anything to look out for? thanks

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

You may get by without having to replace the trans pan gasket. You will need to remove the shield on passenger side and disconnect the linkage as you said. Chances are you will need to either remove or bend the bracket that holds the shift cable. Think there are two different filters depending on how deep your pan is. Just compare the two before you put it in. Make sure to seat the new filter in well and make sure you don't deform the seal when you push it in. Hopefully your pan has a drain plug. If so make sure you attach it with a good 6 point wrench or socket. They are very tight and easy to screw up. I'd say a half hour to hour. Also just snug the pan bolts when going back in or you will squeeze the gasket and it will leak.

One good thing about a factory job is that they should flush the tranny. Getting fluid out of the TC and cooler. I'd invest in it every other change of the fluid.

Good luck

stone150

iTrader: (2)

i had it flushed right after i bought it but i need the filter replaced now.

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

getting the trans pan off can be a bitch. the filter is easy once you get the pan off

smooth_addictions

i did mine and i wound up ******* it all away. do disconnect the shift linkage!!! if you have to drop the exaust it makes it a lot easier. their are solenoids in there that i fucked up getting it off cause it has to drop so far, that it makes it hard as hell. $3,000 latter i have a new tranny fillter and a two year warrenty. i will pay the 90 bucks from now on. mine is also a 4x4 is why it is so much harder. good luck and gods speed.

CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

4-wd models just require the removal of the cross member under the tranny pan, linkage, and wire harnesses.
2-wd models do not have to have the cross member removed. Just the linkage and any neiboring wireharnesses that look like they might be in the way.
Other than that, just be careful when lowering the pan to not damage any of the electronic servos as some are very close to the edge of the pan.
Just take your time and you will be fine. It's not hard.
There really is no need to flush the tranny. I always have the tranny fluid in the pan and filter changed out at every 25,000 miles. That way still leaves half of the old fluid in the tranny, but it's not bad. Had 145,000 miles on my previous 2000 5.3L Silverado and had no tranny problems by doing it that way. I'm not easy on my vehicles either.
My pickup magnet in the bottom of the tranny pan was always pretty clean.
You will always have a little bit of metal at the magnet. That's just normal wear. Just make sure it's very minimal. Clean out the pan before reinstalling it as well.
Other than that.....Good luck.

Jim

04BlackGmc

iTrader: (18)

I didnt have to remove anything really.
You'll need Torx40 Bit to get the Tranny linkage off. and Get the heat shield off. From there its pretty easy.

BTW if you smart like me you'll replace those damn torx bolts with regular ones while you have it out.

smooth_addictions

that is smart idea. i didnt even think about that. good looking out!!!

04BlackGmc

iTrader: (18)

Yep i hate any form of TORX.

FS560

I had to drop both exhaust pipes on my 99 and it also required removal of the front O2 sensors for access to the exhaust flange bolts.

With the pipes down, there is almost enough clearance at the heat shield, so I just pulled it out a little and not will never have to touch it again, the clearance is just right.

Also, with the pipes down, the transmission selector mechanism plate can be bent out a little to get to that one pan bolt and now it is ok for operation and removal of the pan next time.

I installed a B&M deeper pan and it fits great. The plug is not made of pot metal to deform like the stock one.

Dropping the pipes means that you do not have to twist the pan in convoluted movements to remove it. My left side pipe may be slightly relocated when the full duals were done but I am not sure. It looks like the stock pipe and location.

If you drop the pipes, do not forget to put antiseize on the nuts and studs. Also on the O2 sensor threads but none smeared on the sensor itself.

I may extend the filter changes a little but flush all the fluid at the cooler return line more frequently.