Ridetech Coil-overs Installed gmt-800
#12
Thread Starter
Launching!
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From: Southern California
Yes I had the single adjustable.
I thought about bagging too but I wanted to keep it fairly simple for now
I would like to do a 4-link set up, I'm currently reading through the make it handle thread on 67-72 and am getting som good ideas, or another set up I like is spoolin's.
But for now I am just going to get rid of these street preformance shocks for something a little better.
As I understand it the longer softer spring will be compressed more, effectively raising the spring rate. I will probably give RideTech a call and see what they have to say about it.
milesp07 I ran qa1's with drop coils before this and wasn't impressed, I think it's because they are more suited for drag racing, and with drop coils you are losing shock/suspension travel, which in turn crates a harsher ride.
From what I've read it is recommended to have at least 4" of shock travel for a good ride (these are 4.1")
And yes I think they are well worth the extra cash for the ride quality and adjustability you get with them
dubwise when you order the shocks through ridetech they have an option to select stud mount, it's a $25 add on
I would like to do a 4-link set up, I'm currently reading through the make it handle thread on 67-72 and am getting som good ideas, or another set up I like is spoolin's.
But for now I am just going to get rid of these street preformance shocks for something a little better.
With your results from 800# and Atomics 1000# on a 4wd, a 900# should be just about right on mine with the extra weight of the supercharger (~100# extra). However, I am interested in your theory of a longer, lower rate spring as one of the things I am after is a bit more front end lift on launch.
milesp07 I ran qa1's with drop coils before this and wasn't impressed, I think it's because they are more suited for drag racing, and with drop coils you are losing shock/suspension travel, which in turn crates a harsher ride.
From what I've read it is recommended to have at least 4" of shock travel for a good ride (these are 4.1")
And yes I think they are well worth the extra cash for the ride quality and adjustability you get with them
dubwise when you order the shocks through ridetech they have an option to select stud mount, it's a $25 add on
#15
Not saying the RideTech ones aren't progressive, just pointing that out.
I really like this setup. I was thinking about going this way, but I wasn't sure you could use the coilovers without the control arms from RideTech as well.
Good to know this works.
#16
I can put coil overs on my 06? Can ya explain what i need to do in a nutshell? Please?
I would have never guessed that those two bolts on the control arm would be able to handle all the forces of a truck suspension.
I would have never guessed that those two bolts on the control arm would be able to handle all the forces of a truck suspension.
#17
jack truck up, place jack stands, take off wheel, take off TRE from the spindle, take off spindle(or just take the lower part off from the LCA), remove coil spring, install coilover
in a nut shell, gmt-800 covers your truck kretty
in a nut shell, gmt-800 covers your truck kretty
#18
where are you guys getting your spring rates from? i used the ride tech calculator and they suggest anywhere from 600 to 700# springs depending on the type of driving you do. i was just about to order my set up but now you guys have me curious
#19
I have a gauge for that
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My truck measured about 1500 at the wheel, subtract wheel/tire and contral arm weights and lets call it 1250....needed to compress the shock 1.25" to be about in the middle of travel, so 1250/1.25 = 1000
#20
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Launching!
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From: Southern California
I ran the stocker star qa1's.
I know what you are talking about with progressive springs, the hyperco's are linear.
But I guess a better way of explaining it is how much the spring compresses when weight is added, with an 800# spring it takes 800#'s to compress the spring 1", so a softer spring rate with the same weight will compress more and if you compensate that difference with a longer spring it should at least put you back where it was.
I don't know haha, it might just be a backwards way to do things, just an idea I had.
Basically what texasglock23 said this is how I did it:
I pulled the tie-rod end and upper control arm off with a jack under to support the spring tension and let it out remove the old and bolt in the new.
The lower control arm is very beefy where the shock mounts to, and to answer your other thread RideTech has been using the upper spring pocket with the shockwaves for a long time and I haven't heard of any complaints with them, they use whats called a Delrin swivel ball, so it still has some movement and it eliminates side-loading (which I think is more for the shock but I'm sure it doesn't hurt the spring pocket, lets it move when the suspension is articulated).
It's like it was meant to be the derlin swivel ball fits in like a glove.
It sandwiches the shock tower in-between the ball mount.
Atomic has a better method than I do.
Those were the numbers I was getting with RT's calculator too but I figured some of the reg cab guys had 800# so I would start there and thought even that would be too soft for the added weight of an ext cab, and I was right, but its not too bad with it turned up a few turns, but obviously it raised the truck up a little.
The spring rate will only increase when compressed if it is a progressively wound spring.
Not saying the RideTech ones aren't progressive, just pointing that out.
I really like this setup. I was thinking about going this way, but I wasn't sure you could use the coilovers without the control arms from RideTech as well.
Good to know this works.
Not saying the RideTech ones aren't progressive, just pointing that out.
I really like this setup. I was thinking about going this way, but I wasn't sure you could use the coilovers without the control arms from RideTech as well.
Good to know this works.
But I guess a better way of explaining it is how much the spring compresses when weight is added, with an 800# spring it takes 800#'s to compress the spring 1", so a softer spring rate with the same weight will compress more and if you compensate that difference with a longer spring it should at least put you back where it was.
I don't know haha, it might just be a backwards way to do things, just an idea I had.
I pulled the tie-rod end and upper control arm off with a jack under to support the spring tension and let it out remove the old and bolt in the new.
The lower control arm is very beefy where the shock mounts to, and to answer your other thread RideTech has been using the upper spring pocket with the shockwaves for a long time and I haven't heard of any complaints with them, they use whats called a Delrin swivel ball, so it still has some movement and it eliminates side-loading (which I think is more for the shock but I'm sure it doesn't hurt the spring pocket, lets it move when the suspension is articulated).
It's like it was meant to be the derlin swivel ball fits in like a glove.
It sandwiches the shock tower in-between the ball mount.
Those were the numbers I was getting with RT's calculator too but I figured some of the reg cab guys had 800# so I would start there and thought even that would be too soft for the added weight of an ext cab, and I was right, but its not too bad with it turned up a few turns, but obviously it raised the truck up a little.
Last edited by TheBeeblebrox; 07-07-2017 at 07:07 PM. Reason: you know that whore pb