Ridetech Coil-overs Installed gmt-800
09-14-2014 | 01:34 AM
#241
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
My front is about 3" lower than stock. I am running 16+ mcgaughys spindles which lower only 1" since I'm no longer using the ball joint spacer. The only downside to this is I had to machine a small amount of material off the back of the spindles to clear the ball joins in the lower ridetech strongarm.
I went with the strong arms mostly because I didn't want to trust my factory control arms to hold up to that much stress over the long run. I contemplated reinforcing my factory control arms(like they do on s10s and g-body cars) but finally decided just to trust Ridetechs engineering and spring for the strong arms. I know they are expensive damn are they nice. They also correct ball joint angles and are quite a bit lighter than stock. Everyone at the shop was thoroughly impressed with their quality. I highly recommend them to anyone wanting to run this setup.
After scaling my truck (4590 lbs, 2900# front) I was honestly more worried about the top stud mount failing than the lower control arms so I built stud to eyelet adapter that distributes the load over a 3" diameter disc rather than the stud mount coilovers. Im very confident that I will have no problems with the mount failing.
I know it's prob overbuilt but I just wanted to have the peace of mind that I won't ever have any front suspension failures in the future.
I went with the strong arms mostly because I didn't want to trust my factory control arms to hold up to that much stress over the long run. I contemplated reinforcing my factory control arms(like they do on s10s and g-body cars) but finally decided just to trust Ridetechs engineering and spring for the strong arms. I know they are expensive damn are they nice. They also correct ball joint angles and are quite a bit lighter than stock. Everyone at the shop was thoroughly impressed with their quality. I highly recommend them to anyone wanting to run this setup.
After scaling my truck (4590 lbs, 2900# front) I was honestly more worried about the top stud mount failing than the lower control arms so I built stud to eyelet adapter that distributes the load over a 3" diameter disc rather than the stud mount coilovers. Im very confident that I will have no problems with the mount failing.
I know it's prob overbuilt but I just wanted to have the peace of mind that I won't ever have any front suspension failures in the future.
09-14-2014 | 10:34 AM
#242
Sorry I didn't take any pics of the bracket by itself. It's similar in design to the stud to eyelet conversion parts you can find online but cut out of 1/4" plate and welded vs the thin stamped stuff that I found. It's pretty much just a 3" disc with a hole for a 1/2" bolt with 2 shock mount tabs welded to it. I recessed the bolt head in the disc for a little extra clearance.
I'll try to take some pictures later today so you can see how it sits as long as it's not raining outside. The weather has been crazy here the last few days. I think 3/5 is about as low as I can go and really still be able to use the truck like a truck and not have to be super cautious how I drive....pretty much perfect in my mind.
I'll try to take some pictures later today so you can see how it sits as long as it's not raining outside. The weather has been crazy here the last few days. I think 3/5 is about as low as I can go and really still be able to use the truck like a truck and not have to be super cautious how I drive....pretty much perfect in my mind.
09-17-2014 | 04:34 PM
#245
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Pulled the trigger on strong arms and 4.1 coil overs yesterday. Should be here Friday so that I can install on Saturday. Also, ride tech said they have a custom mount for the top of the coil over for use with a bearing mount shock. They recommended using the 3.6 coil over with it though.
They also told me that my setup should lower me about 2.5 inches which is exactly what I am looking for.
They also told me that my setup should lower me about 2.5 inches which is exactly what I am looking for.
09-17-2014 | 05:14 PM
#246
That's awesome to hear. You won't be disappointed. I still used the 4.1" shocks but I also have drop spindles as well. Here are a few pictures of my truck after swapping parts. Sorry it took so long...its been raining like crazy here (as you can tell by my incredibly dirty truck) and this is the first day its actually dry and sunny.
The only hiccup I ran into with the strong arms is the grease zerk on the upper arm on the pass side needs some clearancing. I used a die grinder with a burr to clearance the frame to allow for the zerk to clear it at full camber. Other than that its pretty smooth sailing.
Mwood, what spring rate did you go with? your truck is a RCSB right?
The only hiccup I ran into with the strong arms is the grease zerk on the upper arm on the pass side needs some clearancing. I used a die grinder with a burr to clearance the frame to allow for the zerk to clear it at full camber. Other than that its pretty smooth sailing.
Mwood, what spring rate did you go with? your truck is a RCSB right?
Last edited by milesp07; 09-17-2014 at 05:40 PM.
09-17-2014 | 06:00 PM
#247
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
The truck looks great! That stance is perfect. I went with a 10" 800# hyperco spring. Mine is a RCSB.
What wheel/tire combo is that?
Also, how are you lowered in the rear?
Thanks for the pics!
What wheel/tire combo is that?
Also, how are you lowered in the rear?
Thanks for the pics!
Last edited by MWood; 09-17-2014 at 06:13 PM.
09-17-2014 | 06:24 PM
#248
No prob....I agree. Low enough to look good but still enough suspension to drive without worrying about bottoming out or fender rubbing. I'm running 20x10.5 all around with 295/40/20 tires. I do have some rubbing at full lock (wheel to control arm) but that has to do with a 10.5" wheel on the front...not the control arm.
Right now I have the axle flipped with lift hangers in the rear. pretty soon though I'll be running a 4 link with the Ridetech coil overs as well. Its been quite the project...I'm going to be disappointed if it doesn't ride absolutely perfect lol.
What are your plans for the rear of yours?
Here's a peek at part of the watt's link I'm building...
Right now I have the axle flipped with lift hangers in the rear. pretty soon though I'll be running a 4 link with the Ridetech coil overs as well. Its been quite the project...I'm going to be disappointed if it doesn't ride absolutely perfect lol.
What are your plans for the rear of yours?
Here's a peek at part of the watt's link I'm building...
09-17-2014 | 07:47 PM
#250
It's going to be very close without a notch. I went ahead and put one in and have no issues bottoming out. I think at 4" drop in the rear you may be able to get away with it, but at 5" you'd almost be riding on the frame.
One other thing you might consider doing is replacing your tie rod ends while it's all apart. I didn't and got it aligned and the inner now has play less than 500 miles after. I think it's around $140 for all the parts... Pretty much the cost of an alignment. Just don't want you to have to get an alignment twice like I did lol.
One other thing you might consider doing is replacing your tie rod ends while it's all apart. I didn't and got it aligned and the inner now has play less than 500 miles after. I think it's around $140 for all the parts... Pretty much the cost of an alignment. Just don't want you to have to get an alignment twice like I did lol.