i have a whole list of broken ****...

 

That doggoned u-joint is a Spicer #5-648X or a NEAPCO #2-3050. I found out the hard way after trying the logical conversion u-joint.

On the plus side the 1350 yoke has cap retainers built in, so no more cap clip shenanigans like the regular yoke has.

 

I call bullshit. You've never broken a damn thing.

 

Ive broke your heart cupcake

 

This was taken from another site so before ordering any parts please double check for yourself

Conversion U Joints
s44 to 1350 - Neapco PN 2-1153
1310 to 1350 - Neapco PN 3-3140
1330 to 1350 - Neapco PN 2-3050

 

I used the Precision # 447 which if I'm not mistaken is the same as the Spicer 5-648x and Neapco PN 2-1153

 

The bottom line is you being awd you aren't stressing the rear as much as 2wd folk. But ive always believed in preventative mods. Snapping **** in half at midtrack isnt fun.

 

Exactly. I mean in a perfect world the answer would be no so I could keep the light weight 10 bolt in there... but I dont want to break parts.

 

There have been a lot of trucks that have run 9's consistently with tons of street driving and some crazy hwy mph pulls. I wouldn't think it would be an issue in the 10's unless the truck is just super heavy.

I think i remember flaco telling me once that he was getting about 35 passes out of a set of gears in the 10 bolt. That was on a nos combo with all of it flowing right off the brake on a low 9 second truck around 4200 lbs. That obviously being a combo that is hardest on driveline parts.

 

I swapped in the AXN 9.5" 14 bolt. I'm AWD and did it mostly because I thought it was cool and it bolted right in. I'm still running the factory G80 locker, much to the dismay of others in this site. LOL.

The fact is I'm running small street tires so it's complete overkill. My stepfather has a 1972 Blazer with a Dana 60, 489 big block, turbo 400 and he's broke it several times. The Blazer weighs 6000+pounds and is used for off roading. It's all about what you use it for.