Last Call

iTrader: (4)

I snapped the yoke off of the driveshaft today. It looks like the u-joint let go and took out the yolk that goes into the trans. There is also a dent in the front driveshaft. Dont think I will be able to reuse the front driveshaft with the dent in it. I will get some pics up in a minute.

Does anyone know if there is an upgraded 4l80e yoke out there? How about upgraded u-joints?

Last Call

iTrader: (4)

Some pics of the breakage;






Driveshaft pics

TouchOfEvil04

iTrader: (13)

Thats not good. But hey my damage totally owns your damage haha.

trever1t

iTrader: (14)

Damn Jason!!!

You seem to have very bad luck on drive train parts!

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

I had a half ton 2wd that I was always loosing u-joints on. I had it lifted, and abused it on the weekends and then some more. I got tired of replacing the brut force, and the cheepie joints from Hi-Low. I upgraded to some 1350 u-joints, and yokes. They're the grease able kind from Spicer. Rock solid. It's not cheep. You'll have to upgrade the yokes, axle end, and drive shaft end. You can do one end at a time, or both at once. The drive shaft end has to be cut off and welded on, and then balanced all together. They make miss matched u-joints, so if you want to just replace/upgrade the trans slip yoke first, and then the drive shaft later you can.

Breeze

iTrader: (16)

He does seem to breakin alot of stuff this year good luck gettin it straightened out

TURBO8

iTrader: (9)

Wow! you broke a 4l80 yoke and u jount? How did you do that? I know your truck is making some good power but dam! Good luck getting it fixed. I used a drive shaft shop out in san leandro. (I think its called san leandro driveline) They put on the spicer U joints, balanced, and shorten my drive shaft for the 6 speed so far so good. 780tq! Did you get Alen to make shure your driveline angle was right?

Last Call

iTrader: (4)

Looks like when I had the front drive shaft u-joint replaced, the shop replaced it with a shitty aftermarket cross drilled grease filled u-joint. Basically the u-joint broke because of the cross drilled grease fitting running all the way through the center of both joints. The u-joint is likely what broke the yoke.

I just came from the driveline shop and I was going to do a 1350 conversion. I was told it would not be necessary. Im going to have the front u-joint replaced with a totally sealed one. Going to add a new yoke and the driveshaft balanced.

So guys, be sure to use sealed u-joints when replaceing them. The aftermarket ones with cross drilled zerk fitting will break!

This is turning out better than expected. I was thinking new driveshaft all with 1350 yolks.

TURBO8

iTrader: (9)

I am glad you look on the bright side. I wish my wife did that.