I upgraded trans coolers and my truck is still getting to hot. When normal driving with the converter locked it still hit 220. Something is wrong. I don't know what it could be. My fittings is on top instead of bottom does that matter??

 

That shouldn't matter. It sounds like it's almost not circulating fluid through the cooler. You don't have a plugged line do you? Are you using a 40k?

 

This is the one I used. Its a 26 row cooler for a f250. Its larger in size the the trucool. The trucool is the one on bottom right.

 

The sandwich cooler could be restricting the flow pretty badly, depending on its original intended purpose and flow rate. Put a hand on the cooler mesh and see if it's warm. If not toasty it's probably not flowing.

Also, did you bypass the radiator cooler? If it's after the main cooler or not bypassed completely, you're probably just heating the trans fluid back up.

 

I honestly dont see a need for a cooler that size. Mine runs 150s with the true cool 40k. Trans pressures are also dependent on TFT (trans fluid temp). But to answer your question I think you have a restriction as well

 

I agree, your converter or trans could be slipping, or possible restriction.

Ive never had my 80e trans temps get up to 190* and that includes towing a 12k+ # trailer with the conveter unlocked and running the crap out of it with the turbo in boost all the time.

My buddy had a similar problem with his Dmax/Allison. It would heat up to 250* in 5th and converter locked. Ended up being the conveter the shop put in it with the fresh trans was slipping when locked up. Not enough to feel it but enough to heat the fluid too hot.

 

That's my thought, if the radiator wasn't bypassed and the cooler lines are installed backwards, then the oil is be heated back up while going through the radiator.

 

Well I think it was a trans issue. On the way home I heard a grinding and lost OD. What would make a grinding sound? This sucks cause it just got refreshed and put in with less than 500 miles. I did mash on it about 5 times.

 

Holy cow that sucks!!! With a 6.0 and N20, it time to look to the 80e swap. I fought it too...

 

That sucks. If it was just refreshed it'll still have warranty from PB... Still a major pain in the *** to take back out, send it in, get it back, and put it back in, not to mention the down time, and shipping costs.

Knock on wood, John (mangledGMC), is running a boosted 6.0 as a DD with a PBlvl2 and hasn't had any problems yet that I know of with it. There's no doubt in my mind that the heat/power is what killed it. These 60e's don't like high temps. My 40k cooler with regular driving last night (lots of hills) kept my trans at about 100*, with ambient temp at 14*.