swaping to the 4l80e
#13
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If it's a new body style 99 not sure if its the old body style 99. All i had to do is grind the bracket off the trans cross member flip it 180 degrees (pointing toward the back of the truck) and reweld it trans mount lined up perfect. My drive shaft fit perfect all i had to do is let a local shop mod a u-joint to fit the drive shaft and 4L80E yolk.
#14
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A 99 truck with a 5.7 is going to be the "Classic" Old Body Style truck. No flexplate spacer needed - that's a Gen-III/IV specific thing. The flexplate on a 5.7L Vortec is a dual-pattern flexplate. It has both the small and large bolt circles. You will be able to use three of the 6 torque converter bolt holes. That's perfectly fine. The same bolts for the 4L60-E TC will work on the 80 TC.
The stock 1500 universal joints are "3R". All of the 2500 U-joints are "1350". There is a 3R-1350 adapter yoke available. Your stock driveshaft will need to be shortened a little bit for the longer 1350 slipyoke and the longer transmission itself. You'll need the yoke in the transmission to take these measurements, you can't plan that ahead of time without some sort of reference. Personally, I think it's best to get compeltely rid of the stock driveshaft. They are not well balanced, very thin, and obviously built to save money.
MOST IMPORTANT THING OF ALL: (and also #1 overlooked item of a trans swap)
The mounting pad for the 4L80-E and the 4L60-E are at at different altitudes. This is due to the 80 being at the far rear and the 60 being up under the front of the tailhousing. Get yourself a magnetic angle finder. With the vehicle on rigid jackstands at all four corners measure what angle your engine and transmission are sitting at right now. When you install the 4L80-E it is critical to match that angle to what it was before or else you will have driveline vibrations that you won't be able to get rid of.
The stock 1500 universal joints are "3R". All of the 2500 U-joints are "1350". There is a 3R-1350 adapter yoke available. Your stock driveshaft will need to be shortened a little bit for the longer 1350 slipyoke and the longer transmission itself. You'll need the yoke in the transmission to take these measurements, you can't plan that ahead of time without some sort of reference. Personally, I think it's best to get compeltely rid of the stock driveshaft. They are not well balanced, very thin, and obviously built to save money.
MOST IMPORTANT THING OF ALL: (and also #1 overlooked item of a trans swap)
The mounting pad for the 4L80-E and the 4L60-E are at at different altitudes. This is due to the 80 being at the far rear and the 60 being up under the front of the tailhousing. Get yourself a magnetic angle finder. With the vehicle on rigid jackstands at all four corners measure what angle your engine and transmission are sitting at right now. When you install the 4L80-E it is critical to match that angle to what it was before or else you will have driveline vibrations that you won't be able to get rid of.
#16
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is that 3r to 1350 the same on 2001 and do you know what those numbers would be on a precision u joint napa doesn't go by them numbers and can't cross reference them thanks.
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