iregret

iTrader: (4)

So I've been planning on ordering front and rear sway bars for my truck. I have a 2000 Silverado RCSB.

I'm planning on lowering so I want an adjustable rear sway bar. After lots of googling and searching here, this lead me to Hellwig.

So I've got the sway bars in my cart. I decided to google the part numbers just to be certain that I was ordering the correct ones. (Part number 7633 front, 7800 rear)

I found a PDF copy of Hellwig's product catalog and discovered that there is actually a larger front sway bar available. (Part number 7702)

Front
7633 1-5/16"
7702 1-3/8"

Rear
7800 1-1/8"

Do you guys think I should go for the larger front sway bar?

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Well after doing a lot of reading and a bit of math I suspect the difference in stiffness would be 10.9%. That's the difference in cross sectional area between the two sway bars. I guess I'll go ahead and order the larger front bar. After all, we are only talking a 1/6" difference between the two. Unless they're shaped differently, that would change the outcome.

Suburbazine

Heavier is what you're looking for. Some sway bars are hollow and wall thickness determines strength.

iregret

iTrader: (4)

I don't think the weight of the sway bar has much to do with it.

JFOLM

iTrader: (8)

Weight means more material. He was saying you want a beefy sway bar.

david8399

iTrader: (2)

GM actually uses hollow sway bars on some applications.

I guess the best way to put it is the bigger you go the more "go kart" feel you get. I generally like a bit of slack in the rear, Just a personal preferance.

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Yes, but there is a difference between weight, mass, and volume.

Do you think a sway bar performs better just because it's solid?

Would a driveline perform better if it were solid?

After pondering and reading about the subject, I answered my own question. Yes, you can go too big. You can also go too small. It has a lot to do with torsion effects, spring rates and suspension design.

I find it sorta weird that there are 2 different sizes available for the front, with such a minor difference between them.

When I was building my Camaro, I discovered 2 different schools of thought.

1) Beefy swaybars and softer springs.
2) Smaller swaybars and stiffer springs.

What I gathered from that was the better way to go would be the softer springs with bigger sway bars. Since I'm not changing my spring rate, I went with the bigger bar. If it turns out to understeer/oversteer, I can adjust my torsion bars (spring rate) and the rear swaybar.

I can wait to push my truck and see just how dialed in I can get it!!

splinter

Bigger (stiffer) is not necessarily better. Depends on what you’re attempting to achieve.

Respectfully suggest finalizing your ride height before upgrading to aftermarket anti-roll (‘sway’) bars to adjust chassis balance.
Nevertheless, I’ve enjoyed excellent results with Hellwig’s hardware on several GMC trucks.

Their 1-1/8” #7800 also works on my ECSB '11. It was a bit too loose in the tail before ditching its hollow OE ~1-3/8” front bar for a solid #7685 1-1/2”(!) Hellwig.
Amazon direct proved the least expensive source with ‘free’ shipping and no sales tax.



edit: never mind about the sales tax, lol

iregret

iTrader: (4)

I agree with you about finalizing your suspension and then adding swaybars. In this situation would it really make much of a difference?

I mean, there are only so many ways to lower my truck. I'm going to be doing spindles and shackles. Theoretically, the ride with the shackles should be identical with the exception of a lower center of gravity. I already have the factory blocks removed from the rear. I don't want it slammed, I want it to look 2wd.

So, I'm going to go from stock everything, including shocks, to McG's spindles, monomax shocks, shackles, and Hellwig swaybars.

I'm not expecting too much, it is a 5000 pound truck after all.

splinter

My 3800 lb. ’70 SS/RS Camaro goes around corners pretty well. Doesn’t haul much lumber though.

I’m also a proponent of big bars and relatively soft springs as a reasonable compromise to improve handling without severely degrading ride quality.
Because you’re not also increasing wheel rate via stiffer torsion bars/leafs, note that unaltered (4WD) bump stops can substantially effect allowable travel during jounce.
The 'progressiveness' they manifest is desirable imho.

reference:
2004 Chevy Silverado - Modified Truck, Custom Truck - GM High-Tech Performance Magazine