T56 Guys, Need Your Help!! Many Problems!
#1
![Default](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I started my T56 swap this weekend and ran into some trouble. The truck is an 01 Silverado extended cab 2WD auto. The T56 was from on 01 Z28 which I rebuilt with upgraded parts.
First problem is surprise surprise, it doesn't start. I used this wiring diagram I found in the T56 swap thread. I hooked the four black box wires to the clutch switch as shown and nothing. I did not hook up the reverse lights. I also did not ground the black/white wire. Does this need to be grounded? What about the four wires in the smaller of the two black box connectors? Is there a way I can hardwire it so it will start with or without the clutch, just so I can get it moving? I unplugged the smaller of the black box connectors and cut the seven wires of the larger one because some dipshit super glued the connector into the black box. I capped off the ends of the seven wires.
What I did was use a multimeter to find where the wires come out under the fusebox and tapped into them there. Then I hooked them to the clutch switch and depressed it by hand and tried to start it.
Second issue is that for some reason, the new setup has rotated the entire engine/trans assembly forward (ie the trans mount is higher than before) enough so the stock y-pipe is now hitting the floorboard. I'm using an Energy Suspension F-body mount. Should I be using something else? Clearance looks good otherwise.
Third issue is that the stock extended cab driveshaft appears to be just a tad too long. The slip yoke is pushing up against the sealing ring on the main shaft of the T56. I modified my Belltech carrier bearing mount to give a little more clearance. Anyone have this issue?
Lastly, my clutch pedal doesn't seem to be working quite right. It rests a little lower than the brake pedal, while all the pictures I've seen show that the clutch pedal should rest a bit higher than the brake pedal. As a result, the clutch pedal arm is hitting the firewall. Should the clutch pedal stop before hitting the floor? My master and mount I bought from a guy on here were modified with a stronger metal master cylinder mount. Perhaps he got the length wrong and the master cylinder is mounted too far forward?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!
First problem is surprise surprise, it doesn't start. I used this wiring diagram I found in the T56 swap thread. I hooked the four black box wires to the clutch switch as shown and nothing. I did not hook up the reverse lights. I also did not ground the black/white wire. Does this need to be grounded? What about the four wires in the smaller of the two black box connectors? Is there a way I can hardwire it so it will start with or without the clutch, just so I can get it moving? I unplugged the smaller of the black box connectors and cut the seven wires of the larger one because some dipshit super glued the connector into the black box. I capped off the ends of the seven wires.
What I did was use a multimeter to find where the wires come out under the fusebox and tapped into them there. Then I hooked them to the clutch switch and depressed it by hand and tried to start it.
Second issue is that for some reason, the new setup has rotated the entire engine/trans assembly forward (ie the trans mount is higher than before) enough so the stock y-pipe is now hitting the floorboard. I'm using an Energy Suspension F-body mount. Should I be using something else? Clearance looks good otherwise.
Third issue is that the stock extended cab driveshaft appears to be just a tad too long. The slip yoke is pushing up against the sealing ring on the main shaft of the T56. I modified my Belltech carrier bearing mount to give a little more clearance. Anyone have this issue?
Lastly, my clutch pedal doesn't seem to be working quite right. It rests a little lower than the brake pedal, while all the pictures I've seen show that the clutch pedal should rest a bit higher than the brake pedal. As a result, the clutch pedal arm is hitting the firewall. Should the clutch pedal stop before hitting the floor? My master and mount I bought from a guy on here were modified with a stronger metal master cylinder mount. Perhaps he got the length wrong and the master cylinder is mounted too far forward?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!
Last edited by Ferocity02; 05-07-2012 at 12:17 AM.
#6
![Default](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fiddled with it more today, I can get it to start when I connect the black box's yellow and purple/white wires together. This is the only wiring I did. The light green and pink wires from the black box aren't going anywhere. Once running, the gear selector says it's in 2nd. Is this okay? Will it be in limp mode or anything?
I figure I can just hook the yellow and purple/white wires to the clutch switch and be done with it. Anyone see an issue with this? I can do the cruise release later.
I figure I can just hook the yellow and purple/white wires to the clutch switch and be done with it. Anyone see an issue with this? I can do the cruise release later.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lxcoupe
FORCED INDUCTION
8
07-21-2015 02:12 AM